Mazda Adjusted Break Bias on "newer" Mazdas?
- Thread starter gizzard
- Start date
I would recommend proper brake caliper grease (it's synthetic, and not petroleum based) - anti seize grease is just that - meant to prevent seizing, not lubrication. (hence why it's good on bolts, spark plug threads, between wheel and rotor etc).
You can get little sachets of the stuff from places like autozone for a dollar or so.
You can't really over-lube as any excess will just be pushed out when you re-assemble and make a mess!
You can get little sachets of the stuff from places like autozone for a dollar or so.
You can't really over-lube as any excess will just be pushed out when you re-assemble and make a mess!
cool, thanksfalsedawn said:I would recommend proper brake caliper grease (it's synthetic, and not petroleum based) - anti seize grease is just that - meant to prevent seizing, not lubrication. (hence why it's good on bolts, spark plug threads, between wheel and rotor etc).
You can get little sachets of the stuff from places like autozone for a dollar or so.
You can't really over-lube as any excess will just be pushed out when you re-assemble and make a mess!
Technically, the term overlube could mean anything so 'd say, don't put some huge amount on it. You don't want there to be a bunch of excess grease to find it's way onto your rotors. Not so great for stopping.
Yes, you can find the brake caliper grease things as well.
My anti seize copper based grease says it resists up to 2000 degrees and can be used on brake assemblies. I also use it on all my reassembly bolts like exhaust, suspension, plugs etc.
Yes, you can find the brake caliper grease things as well.
My anti seize copper based grease says it resists up to 2000 degrees and can be used on brake assemblies. I also use it on all my reassembly bolts like exhaust, suspension, plugs etc.
gizzard said:
In most cases the dealers are less than helpful even with TSB in hand. However, I did have my rear pads replaced as goodwill. Because the brakes are a wear and tear item they only warranty them for 1 year or 12k (I'm pretty sure of those figures). The second time I brought it in for the same thing they wouldn't do anything for me other than tell me that I needed to pay over $200 to replace the rear pads and rotors. I threw the rear caliper TSB, the rusty rotor TSB and them and they told me that it wasn't covered. And really the only reason I entertained the idea of paying them to do the brakes for me was that I also complained about the paint peeling off from my wheels and I wanted them to think I wasn't just trying to scam a new set of the wheels. After they told me that they would cover the wheels under goodwill I told them not to do any brake work on the car. I did the brake job, all four corners pads and rotors for like $240, which was less than they wanted for just the rears.
So, take it down and see if they will replace them for you. Worst case scenario is you'll need to pay the diagnostic fee.
TSB is NOT a recall or an admission of anything.
It is merely a Technical Service Bulletin for the dealerships to know what to look for and where to look if a complaint is entered. Not every tech is really good at diagnosis and most of the time they do NOT want to take the effort to take things apart just to see if they might be a problem. They'd rather just give the usual info and if it's confusing look under "brakes" in their bulletins and see if it gives them a clue of where to look. It's really up to them to cover it under warranty if it is a wear item or if the car is out of warranty.
It is merely a Technical Service Bulletin for the dealerships to know what to look for and where to look if a complaint is entered. Not every tech is really good at diagnosis and most of the time they do NOT want to take the effort to take things apart just to see if they might be a problem. They'd rather just give the usual info and if it's confusing look under "brakes" in their bulletins and see if it gives them a clue of where to look. It's really up to them to cover it under warranty if it is a wear item or if the car is out of warranty.
Good thread. Would the pads sticking cause the brakes to drag. My car seems to lunge forward while braking with minimal pressure applied. But hammering down, it stops right there. I guess I need a warm day to take it apart and take a look.
What pads do you guys use?
I have used PBR or Mintex on my other cars.
What pads do you guys use?
I have used PBR or Mintex on my other cars.
Thanks. Ok, question real quick: You know how we can swivel the "piston" portion of the caliper away from the brakes to inspect / replace pads w/o taking the entire caliper off right? Well, if I did that would I have to compress the piston to get it to fit back over the pads? Thanks.Nomad said:
That is the dumbest thing that i have heard. Why the hell would you opt for inferior brakes? On top of that opt for a longer stopping distance is dumb as well. You have 1/2 the shoes left because rear drums dont grip for s***. My rear pads lasted 45k miles and then i changed them. I'd rather change the rear pads every 25k miles than be stuck with drums in the rear.macklum said:
aMaff said:
Yes, I believe you'd be taking out the pin that needs the lube when you do that. I'm doing some brake work this weekend so it's been a while so i can't remember exactly.
The piston will not have to be pressed back in (actually the rears are adjusted with allen screws IIRC) unless you replace the pads with new pads that are thicker than your current ones. If you just swivel out, it will swivel back no problem unless you have a dunce in the driver seat who steps on the brake while you have it out.
As for opting for drums in the rear and no ABS...
I can see not getting ABS and drums because you don't have the $$ to add them on. No big deal.
But if you actually opted out of those things because you thought you were clever... Sorry man, you chose wrong.
Drum brakes are super old tech and do NOT grip as well as discs, period. They do not modulate as well as discs and have more parts to go bad than discs. It's pretty straightforward that discs are better by far. Oh well.
If you opted out of ABS I could understand it maybe if you were a performance driver who was very skilled at brake modulation in all sorts of conditions and did not want that "crutch" interfering with you when you are driving on the ragged edge.
Seeing your knowledge of brakes and the fact you have a Protege LX pretty much cancels that option out.
Not bashing, just letting you know not to make that mistake again.
I can see not getting ABS and drums because you don't have the $$ to add them on. No big deal.
But if you actually opted out of those things because you thought you were clever... Sorry man, you chose wrong.
Drum brakes are super old tech and do NOT grip as well as discs, period. They do not modulate as well as discs and have more parts to go bad than discs. It's pretty straightforward that discs are better by far. Oh well.
If you opted out of ABS I could understand it maybe if you were a performance driver who was very skilled at brake modulation in all sorts of conditions and did not want that "crutch" interfering with you when you are driving on the ragged edge.
Seeing your knowledge of brakes and the fact you have a Protege LX pretty much cancels that option out.
Not bashing, just letting you know not to make that mistake again.
I called Mazda USA today and explained my situation. All the CSR could say was my brakes are considered "consumable" and can't be replaced under warranty because it is past 12,000 miles. He never directly addressed the fact that my rear brakes are wearing four times faster than my fronts.
What other action can I take?
What other action can I take?
