- :
- 2001 Mazda MP3
(thumb)
LinuxRacr's Haltech E6X Log..
- Thread starter LinuxRacr
- Start date
- :
- ‘19 CX-5 GTR Tu
LinuxRacr said:
Well get's to work..mang...lol...i wanna take a trip upto you man...sometime in spring...Make a weekend out of it..
Any reason why you havne't just invested in some ic sprayer kit?
In your area..i can only imagine the type of weather you get..freezing your ic..should give you a nice kick at your boost levels.
Chas
I was looking over the options for the E6X today, and Baromatic Correction. I noticed in the fuel setup that Juan has the Baromatic Lock set to 1013 in the Fuel Setup menu. Reading thru the Haltech Manual, they advise that you disable that if you are using a MAP sensor for load sensing. I am wondering why the lock was set?
I'm wondering how the lock works... but if it is locking the barometric pressure adjustment... then I can see that as bad... as the density of the air would change, while your overall pressure differential in the map would only be minimally affected... and locking it wouldn't allow compensation... HOWEVER, keeping it locked is a lot easier and more like not having the feature... unlocking it likely makes the modifiers come into play and unless they are tuned right... you will have all sorts of fun with that! Do you have the barometric pressure sensor fitted on your kit?
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- 2001 Pro 2.0 LX
I am no genius on this but isn't it due to the map relying on are pressure so the barrometer reads that so this way you can tune it unlike the MAF?
What I was pointing out and I think Patrick was agreeing with is that the MAP sensor readings won't completly compensate for density due to barometric changes... by enabling that feature and being able to adjust the barometric modifiers (NOT locking it), then you can compensate that out and get a slightly better overall tune that won't go nuts with major altitude changes.
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- 2001 Pro 2.0 LX
yes. thats what I was trying to get at but my tuning lingo sucks
The E6X gives you 3 options for Baromatic correction. Here is my short version
1. You enable the barometric lock in fuel setup, and enter the number for your best average of what you believe you will be driving at altitude wise (pressure of course!).
2. You disable the barometric lock feature in fuel setup, and the ECU takes a sample of the pressure BEFORE you start the engine, and saves it. This options can be used if you are using a MAP sensor for Engine Load Sensing. To reset the reading, turn the key off, open the throttle all the way (make sure your TPS sensor is properly calibrated, cause you need to see at least 96% throttle for this to work). Then turn the key to the on position (without cranking the enging), and wait 5 seconds for the priming cycle to finish. Releas the throttle, and turn the car on. You don't want to always reset unless you are constantly going from hi to low, low to hi altitudes, or if your car was tuned at sea-level, and you live at altitude.
3. This option is used if you want to constantly monitor the barometric pressure. You would need a seperate barometric sensor. Disable the barometric lock, and hook up your sensor.
1. You enable the barometric lock in fuel setup, and enter the number for your best average of what you believe you will be driving at altitude wise (pressure of course!).
2. You disable the barometric lock feature in fuel setup, and the ECU takes a sample of the pressure BEFORE you start the engine, and saves it. This options can be used if you are using a MAP sensor for Engine Load Sensing. To reset the reading, turn the key off, open the throttle all the way (make sure your TPS sensor is properly calibrated, cause you need to see at least 96% throttle for this to work). Then turn the key to the on position (without cranking the enging), and wait 5 seconds for the priming cycle to finish. Releas the throttle, and turn the car on. You don't want to always reset unless you are constantly going from hi to low, low to hi altitudes, or if your car was tuned at sea-level, and you live at altitude.
3. This option is used if you want to constantly monitor the barometric pressure. You would need a seperate barometric sensor. Disable the barometric lock, and hook up your sensor.
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jrodhotrod
Contributor
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5 (Mine) 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE (Wife's)
So it looks like option 2 is the best bet. Is this what you are using Patrick?
-Jared
-Jared
jrodhotrod
Contributor
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5 (Mine) 2002 Nissan Sentra GXE (Wife's)
I have a question about your map.
I have been comparing the ignition set-up in Ken's Map, your map, and my map and they are all different. Did Steve Kahn configure your trigger angle and BTDC?
These are the values I see in the Ignition Setup Menu:
Ken's is 70 with a tooth offset of 1
Your's is 55 with a tooth offset of 3
Mine is 73 with a tooth offset of 3
In the Trigger Setup I see:
Ken: trigger angle 70, trigger type standard
Your's: trigger angle 55, trigger type motronic, teeth no 72, tooth offset 3
Mine: Trigger angle 73, trigger type motronic, teeth no 72, tooth offset 3
So my question is, what is the correct value and just what effect could this being wrong have on my tune?
And has anyone tried the "Madza A" trigger type, from reading the latest manual on the haltech site, it would seem to imply that is for the FS motor.
I have been comparing the ignition set-up in Ken's Map, your map, and my map and they are all different. Did Steve Kahn configure your trigger angle and BTDC?
These are the values I see in the Ignition Setup Menu:
Ken's is 70 with a tooth offset of 1
Your's is 55 with a tooth offset of 3
Mine is 73 with a tooth offset of 3
In the Trigger Setup I see:
Ken: trigger angle 70, trigger type standard
Your's: trigger angle 55, trigger type motronic, teeth no 72, tooth offset 3
Mine: Trigger angle 73, trigger type motronic, teeth no 72, tooth offset 3
So my question is, what is the correct value and just what effect could this being wrong have on my tune?
And has anyone tried the "Madza A" trigger type, from reading the latest manual on the haltech site, it would seem to imply that is for the FS motor.
jrodhotrod -
Does the Engine Data Page display the correct timing based on what your timing map is supposed to be at? Ex: at idle the timing map value is 10 deg. -> does the Eng. Data Pg. show 10 deg.?
If the Eng. Data Pg. reads differently than the timing map, you will need to adjust the trigger angle.
You need to use the Timing Lock feature to set the correct trigger angle. Here's how:
1. Start the car.
2. In the Ignition Setup set the Lock Timing Angle to 10 deg.
3. Enable Lock Timing
4. Get a flash light and look at the timing cover above the crank pulley. You will notice an area with a series of verticle lines with the number 10 above one line and the number 1 above another line. This is the area to reference the timing while using a timing light
5. Using a timing light, check to see if the Timing mark on the crank pulley lines up with the 10 Deg. Timing mark on the timing cover. If it does not line up, adjust the trigger angle until they line up.
6. Once that's done, uncheck the Enable Lock Timing checkbox.
Since your trigger angle is 73, I would predict that you would need to come down to the 50-55 range to get the timing marks to line up at 10 deg.
There can also be a down side to this for you -> if Juan set up your timing map using the 73 trigger angle, your timing map would have to be adjusted for the new trigger angle.
Post your .E6X file in the Library and I'll take a look at.
Also, the number of teeth = 72, tooth offset = 3, and trigger type = motronic are all correct.
Hope this helps.
-Shawn
Does the Engine Data Page display the correct timing based on what your timing map is supposed to be at? Ex: at idle the timing map value is 10 deg. -> does the Eng. Data Pg. show 10 deg.?
If the Eng. Data Pg. reads differently than the timing map, you will need to adjust the trigger angle.
You need to use the Timing Lock feature to set the correct trigger angle. Here's how:
1. Start the car.
2. In the Ignition Setup set the Lock Timing Angle to 10 deg.
3. Enable Lock Timing
4. Get a flash light and look at the timing cover above the crank pulley. You will notice an area with a series of verticle lines with the number 10 above one line and the number 1 above another line. This is the area to reference the timing while using a timing light
5. Using a timing light, check to see if the Timing mark on the crank pulley lines up with the 10 Deg. Timing mark on the timing cover. If it does not line up, adjust the trigger angle until they line up.
6. Once that's done, uncheck the Enable Lock Timing checkbox.
Since your trigger angle is 73, I would predict that you would need to come down to the 50-55 range to get the timing marks to line up at 10 deg.
There can also be a down side to this for you -> if Juan set up your timing map using the 73 trigger angle, your timing map would have to be adjusted for the new trigger angle.
Post your .E6X file in the Library and I'll take a look at.
Also, the number of teeth = 72, tooth offset = 3, and trigger type = motronic are all correct.
Hope this helps.
-Shawn
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