Lewis7789's 2003 Protege5 build thread

[Cleverfrog]

That's what I thought before my first time. I watched a ton of auto-x Youtube videos and just prepared myself to get lost, but it's really pretty basic once you walk the course once or twice. You should come out and sign up, you'll have a blast. If you like, I can drive the first run to show you then you can run the other runs. Or just come out and ride along with the Mazda crew. Even just riding shotgun I learn a ton from those guys.

Ryan, which one is the black one? They both look black to me. Haha. Still have the P5, right?

I get lost watching videos too. After walking the course with Evan It's so much more visible than it looks like in videos.

 

[Perro del Sol]

Jake come out and Lauri or Marc can help you out. Also the do have a novice walk to point out different things as well.

 

[Lewis7789]

Well after working with the P5 harness for about 8 hours I've decided to basically run two harnesses together, like I did last time. One is the KL engine harness (all cleaned up with new loom and tape, of course) and the other will be what's left of the P5 harness along with my gauge wiring and positive battery cable. Does anyone foresee any problem with running the positive cable along with the other wiring in the loom? Just double checking.

I also plan to mount the stock P5 ECU in the stock location and the MS ECU in the glove box. I doubled checked I've got room for both harnesses without any problems. Everything is coming along nicely. I'll mount up the clutch>trans>motor this weekend and drop her in for mock up. It will be nice to see a freaking motor in there again. lulz.

 

[magnumP5]

Well after working with the P5 harness for about 8 hours I've decided to basically run two harnesses together, like I did last time. One is the KL engine harness (all cleaned up with new loom and tape, of course) and the other will be what's left of the P5 harness along with my gauge wiring and positive battery cable. Does anyone foresee any problem with running the positive cable along with the other wiring in the loom? Just double checking.

I also plan to mount the stock P5 ECU in the stock location and the MS ECU in the glove box. I doubled checked I've got room for both harnesses without any problems. Everything is coming along nicely. I'll mount up the clutch>trans>motor this weekend and drop her in for mock up. It will be nice to see a freaking motor in there again. lulz.

I have my battery power wire running right alongside my main harness. Since the battery cable is (relatively) low voltage it shouldn't be a problem. Spark plug wires are different because they're high voltage.

 

[ihone]

I've got both harnesses still in teh car honestly - and I have no probls. The KL harness is literally joined to the P5 harness and runs through the same exact routing.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Spark plug wires are different because they're high current AND high voltage.

Actually it's just high-voltage, the current going through a spark plug wire is very low.

 

[magnumP5]

Actually it's just high-voltage, the current going through a spark plug wire is very low.

Fixed it. I've been getting my head too wrapped around electrical stuff this week.

 

[Protege03ak46]

I would not run them together. Could cause some RFI issues.

 

[Lewis7789]

Radio frequency interference? (I had to look it up, lulz. I don't know jack about wiring.) I can run it through the grommit on the drivers side right to the fuse block, it would just be cleaner along with the main harnesses. But safety first!

Anyone have a good link for wiring cars for dummies? I've got a lot to learn.

Also noticed last week my steering wheel must have popped out of the U joint in the rack when I lowered the front cross member. Looks like I'll drop the rack in the morning and see what's going on there.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

I would not run them together. Could cause some RFI issues.

I really doubt it. Considering that in the stock harness power for the injectors and ignition coils is bundled together with lines from all the various engine sensors without any problems. The noise on the battery power line is going to be way less than an injector power line pulsing at a few kilohertz. Square waves/Impulses suck when EMI is a concern...

 

[PrinceValorum]

Also noticed last week my steering wheel must have popped out of the U joint in the rack when I lowered the front cross member. Looks like I'll drop the rack in the morning and see what's going on there.

I remember it was not fun when I pulled my steering wheel hub and steering shaft thing on the Yota. I had to have Josh help hold stuff, and there were several things to line up at once (took like three tries), plus it was kind of heavy in the awkward position you have to be in. But that was on the interior. Did yours pop out inside the cabin, or in the engine bay?

 

[Teeson]

If the shielded wires stay properly grounded, I see little issue running them through the same hole in the firewall. RFI is hard to predict though, and diagnose for that matter.

Ya done yet? lol jk, looking forward to it

 

[THE Phen]

With the signal level of the wires in question, I wouldn't be too concerned. We run much higher signal voltages in bigger, closer bundles in some of the plants with little issue. HOWEVER, this is pretty easy to find and not horribly pricey.

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/..._US&plmlblid=1319212059965&rt=d&sorttype=list

 

[ihone]

Evan - as long as you run some shielded cable - that shouldn't be much of an issue at all bud.

You can get shielded cable at Home Depot, Lowe's, etc - or you can spend a multitude of money on Canare cabling. It's audiophile quality and has (hands-down) the best noise-canceling properties of any cabling out there. Look up Canare StarQuad microphone cabling and you'll find what you need if it's really of concern. It's wayyyy overkill, but you wouldn't get a lick of noise.

 

[magnumP5]

I really doubt it. Considering that in the stock harness power for the injectors and ignition coils is bundled together with lines from all the various engine sensors without any problems. The noise on the battery power line is going to be way less than an injector power line pulsing at a few kilohertz. Square waves/Impulses suck when EMI is a concern...

I would think even injector power lines don't cause THAT much EMI because they're so low-powered.

Evan, I don't know how the KL is controlled (crank angle, cam angle, both?) but are you going to be using the stock wires for the engine position sensor? If so, I'd look into some kind of shielding as those are the signals you don't want screwed up. My Haltech came with a flying lead harness and all the engine position sensor wires are encased in shielded wire, which is grounded to the battery. In my setup those signal wires only run next to the power wire for ~12" and I've kept them as far away from the alternator and plug wires as possible.

 

[Lewis7789]

Thanks for all the info, guys. I'll just run the main power cable along the drivers side and through a grommet in the firewall on the drivers side as well. It will be the cleanest that way anyway and I won't have to worry about it being anywhere near the signal wires of the main harness.

Will 2 gauge copper welding wire or copper amp wire be okay for the battery relocation kit? I've got a lot more research and asking advice (since I could either have 3 hours online research for possible right/wrong answers or a couple posts in here for cats who know what they're talking about. Not trying to be lazy but I respect your guys opinion much more than strangers).

From what I understand it's battery in the trunk > 150amp fuse holder with 12" of the battery > run the wire along the drivers side interior and through the firewall > a two post distribution block > 1 cable to the stock main fuse relay and 1 cable to the starter. Is that correct? The alternator power wire is in the main KL harness.

-Copper welding wire
-https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
-https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

 

[azuelke]

My buddy ran 0 gauge welding wire for his 2nd battery in the trunk for stereo comps no problem.

 

[bikingpro5]

mine is 0ga to the trunk, 150 amp fuse 12" from the battery runs up the drivers side and out like you mentioned to a 2 in/3 out fused distro block. I have the fuse box, starter and inverter hooked to the outputs and a wire direct from alt and battery are the inputs, works great and I've never had an issues even in the cold.

 

[Protege03ak46]

Here's a table I found related, specifically for 12v systems...

4-7ft:
0-20 Amps: 12-AWG
20-35 Amps: 10-AWG
35-50 Amps: 8-AWG
50-60 Amps: 8-AWG
65-85 Amps: 6-AWG
85-105 Amps: 6-AWG
105-125 Amps: 4-AWG
125-150 Amps: 2-AWG

7-10ft:
0-20 Amps: 12-AWG
20-35 Amps: 8-AWG
35-50 Amps: 8-AWG
50-60 Amps: 6-AWG
65-85 Amps: 4-AWG
85-105 Amps: 4-AWG
105-125 Amps: 4-AWG
125-150 Amps: 2-AWG

10-13ft:
0-20 Amps: 10-AWG
20-35 Amps: 8-AWG
35-50 Amps: 6-AWG
50-60 Amps: 4-AWG
65-85 Amps: 4-AWG
85-105 Amps: 2-AWG
105-125 Amps: 2-AWG
125-150 Amps: 2-AWG

I've seen as small as 6-AWG used to save weight. Which works. Although the wire does run a little hot and heat is resistance. No matter how far you go or what gauge is used, you should never have a volt drop of more than 3% for efi systems. Personally, I run a BMW wire that's runs down the center of the car and fished behind the dash and out the driver side fire wall. Never had a problem

 

[magnumP5]

2 AWG wire minimum thickness for the battery. Any smaller and you'll run into heat/power issues as stated above. Regardless it doesn't look like you're going to be pulling a lot of power in this setup. The most power/current required is going to be from the starter while cranking. Unless you're going with big intake/exhaust ports and a lopey cam the KL should turn over relatively easily so you'll be fine with 2 AWG. Why waste money and add weight?

Also, why go with a fuse holder versus a circuit breaker? Sure breakers are more expensive but you won't have to worry about replacing fuses if a breaker trips; just reset and go.