Lewis7789's 2003 Protege5 build thread

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10ft of wire? you will need a longer piece then that..


Also, why go with a fuse holder versus a circuit breaker? Sure breakers are more expensive but you won't have to worry about replacing fuses if a breaker trips; just reset and go.


for on the track and autoxing since its not your daily should you not have a battery kill switch in the trunk? I know our local tracks want it for any car with a battery that's relocated.
 
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for on the track and autoxing since its not your daily should you not have a battery kill switch in the trunk? I know our local tracks want it for any car with a battery that's relocated.

Depends on the organization. I'm pretty sure NHRA requires any relocated battery to have an external cut off switch. It's not required for NASA HPDE and is "recommended on all cars and required on some, as listed in the class rules" (referring to a master switch) for NASA competition. I'm not up-to-speed on SCCA or other racing sanctioning body rules.
 
Jon, it just seemed like a fuse was the standard way to go and I doubt a fuse would cost much. But if a circuit breaker is a better plan I don't mind spending the extra bucks. https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

JT, I'll measure out how much wire I'll need but I didn't think I would need much more than 10'. And I checked the Nasa and SCCA rule books and they didn't say anything about a kill switch though I would like to mount one where the stereo would be in the dash. They seem simple and would be really nice to just flip a switch then the motor is safe to work on. It's not like I'll need to keep my stereo settings. tee-hee https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned). And ricer in me would like a push to start button next to the killswitch. I'm pretty sure the P5 doesn't have a chip in the ignition so I could just get it and fire it up and keep my keys in my pocket. Of course, with that comes a security measure that someone couldn't just drive my car away. Probably a hidden kill switch accessible under the dash or something?

And I kinda blew my mod money for this paycheck on new eye glasses yesterday ($422.00, ouch). But my current glasses are 7 years old so it was way overdue. But that just means I've got 2 weeks to pester you guys with questions until the next paycheck. lulz

edit- Something like this would be cool for the center console. :)
Race panel
 
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I think the electrical kill switch he is talking about is one outside of the car that is quickly and easily accessible in the event of an accident. Am I correct JT?

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However, since the rule books say nothing about it, I wouldn't be too concerned about that type of kill switch. I know it's required for competition (not TT).
 
Jon, it just seemed like a fuse was the standard way to go and I doubt a fuse would cost much. But if a circuit breaker is a better plan I don't mind spending the extra bucks. https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
That's pretty much exactly what I have except I got one that auto resets. This is what I have: http://www.delcity.net/store/Hi-Amp-Surface-Mount-!-Auto-Reset/p_193071

JT, I'll measure out how much wire I'll need but I didn't think I would need much more than 10'. And I checked the Nasa and SCCA rule books and they didn't say anything about a kill switch though I would like to mount one where the stereo would be in the dash. They seem simple and would be really nice to just flip a switch then the motor is safe to work on. It's not like I'll need to keep my stereo settings. tee-hee https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned). And ricer in me would like a push to start button next to the killswitch. I'm pretty sure the P5 doesn't have a chip in the ignition so I could just get it and fire it up and keep my keys in my pocket. Of course, with that comes a security measure that someone couldn't just drive my car away. Probably a hidden kill switch accessible under the dash or something?
Remember, a true "kill switch," like those required by the NHRA and some NASA and SCCA classes needs to be able to kill the engine not just cut off battery supply. To be a true kill switch it also needs to be hooked up to the alternator circuit.
 
With all the re-wiring going on you could also hook the kill switch to the ignition and fuel pump. A good security measure eh?
 
Phen, I had a Spoon CF replica on my white EG hatch and loved the way it made the back end look. So I think the iSport spoiler extension would give me the same visual appearance. Do you know what I am saying? -Butters

(of course, I can't find any pics of it with the spoiler, but you know what I mean. I miss that little EG... :()
 
Productive day today, well in my sense of the term at least... lulz.

I mounted the MS in the cubby by the cup holders. I cut a notch out for the MAP vacuum line I still need to run to the engine bay but the harness reaches just fine and I can reach the serial plugs for tuning with ease.

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I mounted the CorkSport shifter bushings in the tranny. I'm not sure about the short shifter to install the bushings in it yet. I'll have to confirm with Shalon it is an OBX shifter and not an eBay shifter. I freaking hate those things. I had one snap in my old Civic so I've always used brand name short shifters since then.

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I got the Aasco flywheel bolted up (with some blue Loctite on the threads and torqued to 75.9lbs of torque as per the manual). I couldn't find my set of pressure plate bolts as I gave the to Wes when I sold him my old clutch. I'll snag them tomorrow so I can bolt up the clutch disc and pressure plate tomorrow. But I got the new bearing all greased up and installed.

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Here's the trans all painted black with the new starter and CorkSport SS clutch line.

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And I picked up some harnesses holders from Summit in different sizes for the engine bay.

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Ivan is coming over tomorrow to give me a hand mounting the trans to the motor then dropping the motor in for mockup to make sure I've got my FS wiring routed correctly. :)
 
its an OBX shifter....trust me if i didnt manage to break it yet i cant see there being any problem with it.
 
Awesome, thanks Corey. I'll keep it in there then. I'm sure you understand my hesitance and all, a short shifter is just something you shouldn't cheap out on and good to know she didn't. :)
 
Is that the EGR boost sensor and solenoid? If so, they both need to be plugged in to avoid a CEL. Oh yeah, a working EGR valve is required as well.
 
mine are all plugged in and tucked away to avoid CEL, never had an issue yet..

Evan car is looking great can't wait to see more pics
 
In the meantime waiting for Wes to let me know I can come over and pick up the pressure plate bolts (le sigh) so I can bolt the clutch up, trans together and put the motor in I wrapped the rest of the exhaust with header wrap Peaches gave me, thanks again, buddy! (2thumbs)

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Awesome, thanks Corey. I'll keep it in there then. I'm sure you understand my hesitance and all, a short shifter is just something you shouldn't cheap out on and good to know she didn't. :)

*cough* Free *cough*

the pay it forward free thread was great while it lasted
 
Idk I was told one is the map sensor ?

They were by the cruise control tho

Its for a couple things, cruise control being one of them. Sort of a non-essential sensor as it just helps the ECU determine the engine load...most of that is determined off of the MAF, TPS, ect though
 
The motor is in! Granted temporarily though, just for mock up for the wiring. But now I have lots more to do and am very excited to get to work. A huge thank you once again to Ivan (fishdonotbounce) his fiance, Cara and my GF for helping out and for Wes for waking up at 3pm to my phone call. lulz

While waiting I mounted up the CR3 kickplate.
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After some lunch we picked up the pressure plate bolts from Wes and mounted up the clutch (ClutchMasters Stage 3 from CR3 Motorsports, of course) to the Aasco lightweight flywheel followed by the trans. Of course, mounting the trans is always easier said than done, but we got it.
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This shot is for Josh, we're using his signature move.
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Easy... steady... easy... man, **** that rear motor mount.
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Boom! I'm pretty pumped to get to work on the wiring and getting her back on the road!
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Haha! That last shot is Ivan playing "Where's Waldo".

Nick, I doubt she'll be ready. I have to break in the clutch and rebuilt trans and tune. And I work slowly... :(
 
Subn.
Looking good.
Love the engine bay pic.
Caption should read, "we found the solution to you knock problem."
 
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