Lets do it again! - GRM $2007 Turbocharged Miata Build!
- Thread starter kcbhiw
- Start date
Thanks for the info. I never thought of the wrap overlap vs. the elements. If I pull the pipe off again, I'll re-do it.
I just looked up Bell's bypass line. It's not bad, but I think I'll be leaving mine as is
.
I just looked up Bell's bypass line. It's not bad, but I think I'll be leaving mine as is
.
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Do drop by. Most of the big stuff has been taken care of, however, I'm always down for Miata talk, etc. If you're interested, you could hitch a ride down and attend the event with a pretty cool group of folks, regardless if you run or not
5/16"...it's too thin, I know. That's the least of my problems at the moment.
- :
- 2003 Black Mica MazdaSpeed Protege
*subbin'* 
yep, should be 1/2" at least. But 5/16 should work for short term, just make sure you have an extra gasket handy.
If I make it to PLM this year, can I do a drive by looksie?
yep, should be 1/2" at least. But 5/16 should work for short term, just make sure you have an extra gasket handy.
If I make it to PLM this year, can I do a drive by looksie?
I used the material I had on hand. It'll hold.
The challenge is the same weekend as the PLM, so I'll be in Florida with the car that weekend.
dang it..
I'm a maroon.
After weeks of fighting with a clutch that wouldn't disengage, I finally drove the car tonight.
Once I had the car put back together from the clutch install, it wouldn't go into any gear. After bleeding the clutch, checking this, that, and the other thing, I pulled the tranny back out to make sure I didn't fubar something. Keeping a long story short, nothing showed any issues other than some odd pressure plate finger contact on the clutch hub. I swapped the throwout bearing and put the thing back together only to have the same issues. I finally broke down and called Gripforce, the clutch manufacturer, and the rep suggested that the throwout bearing and release lever were travelling too far and thusly binding on the clutch hub.
I re-secured everything as I was about to pull the tranny out and put the old clutch back in, adjusted the pedal outside of the factory specs (trial and error) and low and behold, the damn thing works! There's a bit of chatter, but that's to be expected from a "race" clutch, or so I've read and discussed, but it feels good. It actually holds boost and grips pretty well.
I've rigged up a catalytic converter onto the car and will insure it and attempt to pass emissions so that I can move onto the MegaSquirt install and tuning. That'll be exciting.
Anyway, I thought I'd update the thread since it's been idle for a bit. I feel like a tool.
As a side note, the guys at GripForce were super nice and seemed pretty knowledgable....great customer service.
After weeks of fighting with a clutch that wouldn't disengage, I finally drove the car tonight.
Once I had the car put back together from the clutch install, it wouldn't go into any gear. After bleeding the clutch, checking this, that, and the other thing, I pulled the tranny back out to make sure I didn't fubar something. Keeping a long story short, nothing showed any issues other than some odd pressure plate finger contact on the clutch hub. I swapped the throwout bearing and put the thing back together only to have the same issues. I finally broke down and called Gripforce, the clutch manufacturer, and the rep suggested that the throwout bearing and release lever were travelling too far and thusly binding on the clutch hub.
I re-secured everything as I was about to pull the tranny out and put the old clutch back in, adjusted the pedal outside of the factory specs (trial and error) and low and behold, the damn thing works! There's a bit of chatter, but that's to be expected from a "race" clutch, or so I've read and discussed, but it feels good. It actually holds boost and grips pretty well.
I've rigged up a catalytic converter onto the car and will insure it and attempt to pass emissions so that I can move onto the MegaSquirt install and tuning. That'll be exciting
.Anyway, I thought I'd update the thread since it's been idle for a bit. I feel like a tool.
As a side note, the guys at GripForce were super nice and seemed pretty knowledgable....great customer service.
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...as well as wrinkles and grey hairs to the driver. booooo
Antoine
Administrator
Awesome...It's great to see you back in action for $2007!
If you have room for a mazdas247.com decal (or decals) let me know and I'll have Rickman send it over ASAP...I admire your efforts and contribution to the Forums so it would be an honor if you repped Mazda Forums once again at the upcoming GRM!
If you have room for a mazdas247.com decal (or decals) let me know and I'll have Rickman send it over ASAP...I admire your efforts and contribution to the Forums so it would be an honor if you repped Mazda Forums once again at the upcoming GRM!
Emissions Testing - A Blight to Performance
For the first time ever, I took the Miata to the streets today. I added her to the insurance policy yesterday and drove her to work today with the intent to have an emissions test performed.....at which she failed miserably, HA! Whodathunkit. During the tests, MAP was hovering around atmosphere and I knew I was done for when black smoke was rolling from the exhaust. The resutls of the test are as follows:
Once I was home, I checked the adjustments on the RRFPR only to find them WAY out of adjustment. About 80 PSI of fuel was being pumped through the injectors at atmosphere when it should have been about 40. That definately explained the stumble I was having during the transition between Vac and Boost. I'll tune the RRFPR a touch more with a fuel pressure gauge and a WBEGO in an attempt to pass emissions. I don't want to put too much effort into it as the Megasquirt will soon be ready to go on which opens up another can of worms.
For the first time ever, I took the Miata to the streets today. I added her to the insurance policy yesterday and drove her to work today with the intent to have an emissions test performed.....at which she failed miserably, HA! Whodathunkit. During the tests, MAP was hovering around atmosphere and I knew I was done for when black smoke was rolling from the exhaust. The resutls of the test are as follows:
Code:
25MPH 15MPH
Reading Allowed Result | Reading Allowed Result
HC PPM 516 206 Fail | 639 212 Fail
CO % 10.64 1.33 Fail | 11.77 1.20 Fail
NOX PPM 196 1512 PASS | 255 1657 PASSOnce I was home, I checked the adjustments on the RRFPR only to find them WAY out of adjustment. About 80 PSI of fuel was being pumped through the injectors at atmosphere when it should have been about 40. That definately explained the stumble I was having during the transition between Vac and Boost. I'll tune the RRFPR a touch more with a fuel pressure gauge and a WBEGO in an attempt to pass emissions. I don't want to put too much effort into it as the Megasquirt will soon be ready to go on which opens up another can of worms.
Geek it Up
Now that I've failed emissions twice, there are less than 6 weeks to go, and I'm only boosting to 6 PSI, it's time to make some additional power with little pieces of silicon, carbon, fiberglass, etc.
This week, the MegaSquirt install has begun. Features that are included are knock sense with dynamic ignition retard, launch control, map switching, and boost control. The MS is assembled and the wire harnesses are ready. I've been prepping a few odds and ends on the car to allow a complete installation without modifying the stock harness at all.
Below are a few pics of the components that will be installed into the car. I want to dial in about 10 PSI for auto-x and about 14-15 PSI for drag. According to the compressor maps, I'll be within efficiency limits (yay).
Moving on to a few progress images, the following is the knock sensor controller and harness that I've constructed. It simply filters the "noise" from the knock sensor and outputs a usable signal to the MS. The knock sensor will mount to an existing boss near the oil pressure sender.
This would be the boost control solenoid and harness.
The third harness bypasses the VAM to allow interconnection of a GM IAT sensor as well as allowing the fuel pump to continue to operate normally [with priming pulse]. The sensor will be mounted just before the throttle body on the charge pipe.
Here you will find the completed MegaSquirt I with Ver 3.0 board. Included is the adaptor harness that connects directly to the OE harness. No cutting, splicing, or tapping of the original harness is required. I used the same set up within the CSP Miata. The connector was lifted from a junkyard ECU.
This is a closeup of the front of the MS board with Miata and application specific modifications.
...and the rear of the board, also with Miata and application specific modifications.
I hope to have this installation completed this week and a bit of tuning completed within the next few weeks. The current timeline also allows for dial-in of the suspension and a bit of paint work. Stay tuned.
Now that I've failed emissions twice, there are less than 6 weeks to go, and I'm only boosting to 6 PSI, it's time to make some additional power with little pieces of silicon, carbon, fiberglass, etc.
This week, the MegaSquirt install has begun. Features that are included are knock sense with dynamic ignition retard, launch control, map switching, and boost control. The MS is assembled and the wire harnesses are ready. I've been prepping a few odds and ends on the car to allow a complete installation without modifying the stock harness at all.
Below are a few pics of the components that will be installed into the car. I want to dial in about 10 PSI for auto-x and about 14-15 PSI for drag. According to the compressor maps, I'll be within efficiency limits (yay).
Moving on to a few progress images, the following is the knock sensor controller and harness that I've constructed. It simply filters the "noise" from the knock sensor and outputs a usable signal to the MS. The knock sensor will mount to an existing boss near the oil pressure sender.
This would be the boost control solenoid and harness
.
The third harness bypasses the VAM to allow interconnection of a GM IAT sensor as well as allowing the fuel pump to continue to operate normally [with priming pulse]. The sensor will be mounted just before the throttle body on the charge pipe.
Here you will find the completed MegaSquirt I with Ver 3.0 board. Included is the adaptor harness that connects directly to the OE harness. No cutting, splicing, or tapping of the original harness is required. I used the same set up within the CSP Miata. The connector was lifted from a junkyard ECU.
This is a closeup of the front of the MS board with Miata and application specific modifications.
...and the rear of the board, also with Miata and application specific modifications.
I hope to have this installation completed this week and a bit of tuning completed within the next few weeks. The current timeline also allows for dial-in of the suspension and a bit of paint work. Stay tuned
.- :
- 96 Miata M-Edition, 2015 Mazda 3 Hatch
lol.. at least you are giving emissions the ol' college try. next time try to set the high score (lol2)
(rlaugh) I think he already did that the first time around. Did you SEE the numbers?? lol
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