just put grounding wires in my motor

TX2000

Member
:
Mazda 3 MS sedan
Well it all cost about $30 and the installation about 45 mins..

the car now respond alot faster and the rpm dropped from 1k to 700-600

and i like it (headbang)
 
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when the car was in idle it always was at 1k rpms

and when i put the wires it dropped to 700-600 rpms and runs smoothly
 
How involved was the installation of the kit? How difficult was it to find other grounding points in the engine bay?
 
i just bought 10 feet of #4 copper cable and gold plated terminals..

it was from battery to engine block (where is the hook to take out the engine) from there to the throttle body then to the fuel rail...

i also got another ground from the block to the exhaust cover and to the other side of the car
 
my car idles at 500rpm i wonder if it would drop to 300-200 if i put a grounding kit on it hahaha that would suck.
 
I was looking at doing the same thing, just trying to decide on grounding. Whether or not to go for a daisy-chain system, or a centralized grounding point and every wire going to that.

Pics would be helpful, I'm gonna try this in the next few weeks I think.
 
today cars arr full with electronics so giving more points of ground to yor car will help the current to travel (atleast i think that (thumb) )
 
A single ground point is always better than a daisy-chain path because ot two reasons: Current draw and resistance. The longer the wire the more resistance (and also capicatance) you will introduce into the grounding system. Daisy chaining wire together is not only ugly, but you also have to make junctions for the two sections of wire to join together. This also introduces more resistance into the circuit. Some of that resistance can be mitigated by using big-ass wire(tm), but that's a brute force method and more wire means more weight.

Your engine ground point is probably the best place to bring the grounds together or take them all the way to the frame. I haven't seen the frame ground point so i don't know how feasible that might be.
 
i only saw 2 ground points on it ..

so you ar telling that is better to run all the cables to the battery istead to do a chain?
 
What I considered is a centralized plate of metal to hook up the left side grounding points. From there I would run a larger diameter wire to a factory grounding point in the engine somewhere. I think i saw three factory grounds in the engine as is, one on the left fender, right fender, and another near the belts on the inside front of the vehicle.

I'll have to put some more thought into it, but I've seen similar systems on VWs
 
hang on a sec. im new to this whole thing, ive heard of grounding kits but what exactly do they do and what are the advantages of doing this? (shrug)
 
TX2000 said:
i only saw 2 ground points on it ..

so you ar telling that is better to run all the cables to the battery istead to do a chain?

Not necessarily to the battery, but to a central grounding point. Electricity seeks the path of least resistance. Try to make all of your runs have equal resistance to the ground point.
 
mazda3zoom said:
hang on a sec. im new to this whole thing, ive heard of grounding kits but what exactly do they do and what are the advantages of doing this? (shrug)
None really. I think people forget that there is another side of the electrical circuit that ISN'T being improved. For example, you can throw a 4 gauge ground wire on your amp but if the power lead is still 20 gauge, what good is it going to do? Dropping extra ground wires isn't doing anything to improve resistance on the power side of the circuit.
 
rodslinger said:
None really. I think people forget that there is another side of the electrical circuit that ISN'T being improved. For example, you can throw a 4 gauge ground wire on your amp but if the power lead is still 20 gauge, what good is it going to do? Dropping extra ground wires isn't doing anything to improve resistance on the power side of the circuit.

The power side of most circuits already have their own power leads. It's the grounds that get a common ground which is more resistive. It's not about getting more power through the circuit, it's about making it flow smoothly.

Adding a ground kit is meant to minimize the amount or metal that the ground path has to travel through. Electricity is happier flowing through a cool copper wire than it is flowing through hot aluminum.
 
goldwing2000 said:
It's not about getting more power through the circuit, it's about making it flow smoothly.
Correct. Both sides have to have minimal resistance. Lowering the resistance on one side doens't improve current flow if resistance is the same on the other. Adding the ground straps in most cases isn't going to improve anything. You can verify this yourself. Before adding the ground straps, use a good voltmeter and check voltage (not ohms) between the negative bat terminal and the engine block (or wherever you want to check) with all accessories and everything running. The meter should show 0.0v if everything is good (no voltage drop across your ground path) If it does show a voltage reading then you do have an issue. Then add a ground strap and see if it improves.
 
i dont know how it wok at all (scratch) but today i disconected the wire from the batery terminal (back to stock) and i gained the RPMs i didnt had with the wire on and i was able to feel the "lag" when i pressed the trhottle..

put it back and it does a difference
 

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