Just another sound deadening thread

[Toneb210]

I added CLD tiles to the rear trunk area and also the rear quarter panels. There was I think one white OEM tile in each rear panel. Not surprisingly, adding additional tiles changed the tone of the panels when tapped. Waiting for my decoupling/insulation material to come in to be installed in the inner shell of the car. Crossing my fingers that this material can also lessen exterior sound allowing me to bypass having to use heavy MLV.

View attachment 214658
View attachment 214659

I did a little on the rear hatch. But I really want to add more. Also did some directly behind front door speakers with a piece of foam glued on top of the deadener. The foam is purely for acoustics. I do feel the little bit of deadener has gone a long way. But I also want to do more in the rear cargo area like this. Should have done it from the get go. Also the overhead compartment and the housing for the sensors on windshield cause some vibrations. Thinking of a cure for that

 

[yugrus]

Finally finished my Tahoe sound deadening project today. Took me a while, but I'm very pleased with results. I'm sure the experience will seamlessly translate into CX-5.
I didn't do anything to the roof, and this is going to stay this way. Too much hustle with airbags, fasteners, etc.
The best static test in my view was sitting in traffic beside a huge dump truck, under the bridge. I heard the truck, but was very comfortable to have radio on around minimum loudness, and the ability to have a conversation with passenger without raising my voice. The car's voice command system understood everything I said, which was quite a relief. I thought it was dumb before...
On the move, the most noise comes from the A/C blasting, and tires. I have aggressive All-Weather ones, so can still hear them. Although the peeling noise is completely gone, only a bit of rumble has left.
I've wrapped the whole under - dash in MLV, so all I hear from the A/C is the sound of air gushing out of the vents. Super - noisy blower motor is quiet as a mouse now, even on highest setting. I can now hear electric fan at A/C condenser kicking in up front, before the blower noise overpowered it.
I can still hear cars flying by, when I lean closer to the window, but that sound is nothing compared to early days.
Overall, even my family was very impressed, and they're not into the quality of sound inside the car.
I'd like to offer some tips. With CLD, choose flat surfaces instead of rebars, kinks and welds, and cover the middle. This would give you the most bang for your buck. I bought 40 sq ft of Noico 80mil, and still have a sheet and a half leftover. Don't go crazy, 50% coverage is plenty. CLD is not intended to block the sound, just to lower the resonance frequency of the surface it covers.
Clean the surface really well before applying CLD. I used brake clean and isopropyl alcohol. Then use the roller to stick the tile to the surface. But don't go nuts and squish the tile into nothing, you still need some thickness. Noico has built-in indicator, go with it.
I applied CLD to the outer door skin and inside of the inner door skin. Otherwise, the decoupler + MLV package doesn't fit. Don't ask me how I found out... Some tiles went on the inside of the door panels too. Don't cut MLV to leave the same holes in the inner door skin. The door panel most likely fit anyway, but you will block a huge sound leak.
The trunk and rear hatch is the big deal in terms of effect, as are rear quarter panels.
Close any technological and weight - saving holes in pillars with foam and CLD.
I will be working on the wheel wells soon to eliminate a lot of the road noise.
As it stands now, the truck has CLD-decoupler-MLV-decoupler scheme under every interior panel, up to the headliner. I lifted the carpet and did not use the decoupler on the floor, the existing felt material was enough to insulate MLV. I'm sure CX-5 will be different, there is only thin carpet on the floor, as far as I can tell.
Happy camper, on to BBQ, beer and Cuban rum!

 

[CX-5um]

The black covers on the inner door suck. Makes it so much more of a pain. Can't really just stick it over the hole. Wondering if it is even worth my time to try and put it on the back of the plastic? Stopping for the night before I start doing crap work.

Which hole/s and which black covers are you referring to? Remember for the Noico you merely target the large areas of sheet metal on the outer door skin. There 35-50% coverage is all you need. Then when you access the metal inner door with the black plastic cover (bolted with 10mm bolts) you can cover up as much as you want but remember the same Principe applies with Noico here too. Targeting sections that feel the thinnest is all you need. Covering up everything is optional and may yield better results. The plastic panel (door handle, woofer grille ect.) don't even need Noico although I added maybe 6-7 strips in some sections myself.

I did a little on the rear hatch. But I really want to add more. Also did some directly behind front door speakers with a piece of foam glued on top of the deadener. The foam is purely for acoustics. I do feel the little bit of deadener has gone a long way. But I also want to do more in the rear cargo area like this. Should have done it from the get go. Also the overhead compartment and the housing for the sensors on windshield cause some vibrations. Thinking of a cure for that

Rear cargo weakspots are the wheel wheels and the section under the spare tire. I'm not touching the roof. Too risky and too much trouble for me lol. That said when I drove on the freeway the sunroof "cover/lid" makes a big difference in sound with it open an closed. I never use the sunroof yet it allows noise to enter the cabin if cover/lid is open. I wonder if I lay a sized piece of my denim/foil material on top of that lid if there's any difference.

Finally finished my Tahoe sound deadening project today. Took me a while, but I'm very pleased with results. I'm sure the experience will seamlessly translate into CX-5.
I didn't do anything to the roof, and this is going to stay this way. Too much hustle with airbags, fasteners, etc.
The best static test in my view was sitting in traffic beside a huge dump truck, under the bridge. I heard the truck, but was very comfortable to have radio on around minimum loudness, and the ability to have a conversation with passenger without raising my voice. The car's voice command system understood everything I said, which was quite a relief. I thought it was dumb before...
On the move, the most noise comes from the A/C blasting, and tires. I have aggressive All-Weather ones, so can still hear them. Although the peeling noise is completely gone, only a bit of rumble has left.
I've wrapped the whole under - dash in MLV, so all I hear from the A/C is the sound of air gushing out of the vents. Super - noisy blower motor is quiet as a mouse now, even on highest setting. I can now hear electric fan at A/C condenser kicking in up front, before the blower noise overpowered it.
I can still hear cars flying by, when I lean closer to the window, but that sound is nothing compared to early days.
Overall, even my family was very impressed, and they're not into the quality of sound inside the car.
I'd like to offer some tips. With CLD, choose flat surfaces instead of rebars, kinks and welds, and cover the middle. This would give you the most bang for your buck. I bought 40 sq ft of Noico 80mil, and still have a sheet and a half leftover. Don't go crazy, 50% coverage is plenty. CLD is not intended to block the sound, just to lower the resonance frequency of the surface it covers.
Clean the surface really well before applying CLD. I used brake clean and isopropyl alcohol. Then use the roller to stick the tile to the surface. But don't go nuts and squish the tile into nothing, you still need some thickness. Noico has built-in indicator, go with it.
I applied CLD to the outer door skin and inside of the inner door skin. Otherwise, the decoupler + MLV package doesn't fit. Don't ask me how I found out... Some tiles went on the inside of the door panels too. Don't cut MLV to leave the same holes in the inner door skin. The door panel most likely fit anyway, but you will block a huge sound leak.
The trunk and rear hatch is the big deal in terms of effect, as are rear quarter panels.
Close any technological and weight - saving holes in pillars with foam and CLD.
I will be working on the wheel wells soon to eliminate a lot of the road noise.
As it stands now, the truck has CLD-decoupler-MLV-decoupler scheme under every interior panel, up to the headliner. I lifted the carpet and did not use the decoupler on the floor, the existing felt material was enough to insulate MLV. I'm sure CX-5 will be different, there is only thin carpet on the floor, as far as I can tell.
Happy camper, on to BBQ, beer and Cuban rum!

Never thought about the blower motor. It should be be easy to access. Man I really should've got some foam decoupler. Just turned off with the reviews for Noico's foam. Its adhesive specifically in hot weather. Their CLD on the other hand is holding up to hot desert heat.

 

[yugrus]

Oh yeah, the blower motor noise is my pride. I wrapped it in CLD and then foam-MLV. I covered the whole duct in MLV too, easy to do on Tahoe. This also helped with engine noise.
Looks like it's more labor to do the same for CX-5. At least cover the back of the glove box really good.

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