Just A Couple Of Questions!

[xDanielSenpai]

So I just finished with the timing belt of my MP5, Everything turned out great! But then i screw up i was tightening the bolts on the valve cover... and so one of them split in half leaving the lower part of the bolt stuck to the engine. Its the lower left beisde the timing cover.. So i was wondering, where can i buy more bolts for this car?

Also the car has been out for about 3-4 months now, once i finally turned it over it was hesitating to start until i pressed the gas pedal. Is that normal? Whats the best way to tighten the crank bolt w/o an impact wrench? Annnnddd once the engine settled down for the first time, it stayed idling lower than 1000rpm like half way between 0 and 1000 is that okay?

 

[Maroon]

Did you get the broken part out? Did you cross thread it? I wouldn't hesitate to use generic fasteners from a hardware store in place of the factory bolt. You can buy flanged bolts similar to factory at a hardware store.

Having to step on the gas to get it started is not normal. But I would see if it corrects itself over time. Did it only do this the first time you started it after sitting for 3-4 months, or is it consistently doing it?

500 rpm is low for idle, but these cars have terrible idle problems. It changes based on temperature, humidity, barometric pressure, etc. Wait a few hundred miles, and it will pick a new idle. Did you disconnect the battery? I'd say that as long as it isn't stalling, you're good to go.

 

[TheSwapnessMonster]

700 +/- 50 is normal for no load or headlights on
800 +/- 50 is normal for loaded (A/C or Power Steering on)

Page 56: http://www.floptical.net/mazda/service_web/01-03b.PDF

 

[xDanielSenpai]

No broken bolt part is still in there idk how to remove it .-. And yeah just that time now it starts without a problem no possible way to buy another factory bolts?

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[TheSwapnessMonster]

Call a dealer or order from onlinemazdaparts.com


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[Maroon]

A dealership will be glad to take 5X the value of the bolt from you and there are many online sources for sets. Or you could go to a junkyard. But before all that, I'd hit up a hardware store.

That's all beside the point until you get that bolt out. Won't be easy. It's probably snapped off flush. You will have to drill it out and use an easy out or drill bigger for a helicoil.

Maybe you'll get lucky and it won't leak.

 

[pcb]

... I was tightening the bolts on the valve cover... and so one of them split in half leaving the lower part of the bolt stuck to the engine...

I say just leave it and see of it leaks.

I bought my car with one bolt broken then decided to try to fix it... It was a huge PITA. It was broken flush with the engine so I couldn't get a vise grip on it.

I tried to drill it out then use an easy-out but snapped the damn easy-out.

Then I ended up using my rotary tool on it and didn't notice my chuck was rubbing up against the wires going to my coil.... I scrubbed right into one of the wires.

That's when I decided to give up and just put the cap on with a dab of silicone.

The valve cover never leaked in the first place and I damn near disabled my car trying to fix it.

 

[MrGiggles]

You'll need to pull the cover again. If the bolt protrudes from the head, grab it with a locking pliers and attempt to turn it out.

If it's flush or below the surface, you'll need to drill and retap/helicoil or use an extractor. As PCB noted, they break easier, and then you're really screwed, since they're too hard to drill. Instead of putting in a helicoil, many times I prefer to drill the hole oversize and tap 1/4-20 SAE threads in it.

The bolts are M10x1.0, you'll need to measure the length. You can get replacements from a hardware store or a pick and pull.

Additionally, while drilling with a left hand bit, sometimes it will catch and turn the bolt out. They're inexpensive and worth a shop.

 

[xDanielSenpai]

I say just leave it and see of it leaks.

I bought my car with one bolt broken then decided to try to fix it... It was a huge PITA. It was broken flush with the engine so I couldn't get a vise grip on it.

I tried to drill it out then use an easy-out but snapped the damn easy-out.

Then I ended up using my rotary tool on it and didn't notice my chuck was rubbing up against the wires going to my coil.... I scrubbed right into one of the wires.

That's when I decided to give up and just put the cap on with a dab of silicone.

The valve cover never leaked in the first place and I damn near disabled my car trying to fix it.

Hmmm... Okay I'll leave it 'till it leaks. It's flush with the engine so there's no possible way atm to remove it.

 

[pcb]

...
Hmmm... Okay I'll leave it 'till it leaks...

Clean the area really good so you can see a leak easily.

It probably isn't worth the effort (or potential headache) if it's not leaking.

(just glue the head of the bolt back into the hole and nobody will know (except you and me and everyone reading this....))