JosueP5's '03 Protege5 Build Thread.

[Josue6WGN]

Dammit....I'm so indecisive. lol Can't decide on what lugs to get?

This is the set that's on there now...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUTE...|Model:Protege5|Year:2003&hash=item2a08f37543

But I didn't really like how they're open...lets alot of crap in there and a few of the studs are rusting because of this.

I was ready to order these, because they're closed, but they're freaking almost twice as long! I don't want some big ass lugs hanging out of the wheel or anything...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CR-M...|Model:Protege5|Year:2003&hash=item255c3911c8

I'm thinking about painting the rims black and doing a red pinstripe around the rim. With the open's, I'd have to dab some black on the end of the studs. lol

 

[hat1018]

Why not just go to Summit.

 

[o0n8]

I vote closed end. Open end just get rusty on the inside. I have the closed end in orange and they don't really stick out that far to me.

 

[Josue6WGN]

Why not just go to Summit.

I checked their website, and all they had were black ones for $17 per set of 4. So, $17 X 5 = $85. The eBay sets are only $62. I think the red would look better on the color scheme as well.

I vote closed end. Open end just get rusty on the inside. I have the closed end in orange and they don't really stick out that far to me.

Cool...noted!

 

[03zoomzoom]

This is what I've used for the last 7 yrs. They have a few color options.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/small-diameter-lug-nut-sets/p2003846.jcwx?filterid=d1455y2003j1

 

[hat1018]

I thought I saw red lugs on the Summit sight. Maybe not? Either way go closed end, the open ones just seem like a disaster waiting to happen.

 

[Lewis7789]

This is what I've used for the last 7 yrs. They have a few color options.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/small-diameter-lug-nut-sets/p2003846.jcwx?filterid=d1455y2003j1

These are the same ones I bought from Summit 2+ years ago. I change my wheels a lot and they held up really well. I like them.

 

[Josue6WGN]

I thought I saw red lugs on the Summit sight. Maybe not? Either way go closed end, the open ones just seem like a disaster waiting to happen.

I may have missed them then? I'll have to double check. I'd be great if I could simply pick them up!

This is what I've used for the last 7 yrs. They have a few color options.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/small-diameter-lug-nut-sets/p2003846.jcwx?filterid=d1455y2003j1

These are the same ones I bought from Summit 2+ years ago. I change my wheels a lot and they held up really well. I like them.

Those look like the same as the ebay set, but cheaper! Score! I haven't ordered from JCW in years, but I remembered them being pretty quick to ship.

It's all hitting me now....I need to get off my ass and get all this s*** taken care of! Next thing I know, the motor will be in, and I'm going to be waiting for some small part to come in before I drive it!

 

[Josue6WGN]

BINGO! Had to do a search for "Gorilla" lol

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GOR-21133RD/

These will work right? 12mm X 1.5? Cheapest so far as well.

 

[ProjectBlack]

How much do headlights go for on these cars? Mine are all faded and cracked from sun damage.

There's a set of newly restored Canadian headlights for $200 plus shipping on here this morning. I like the black housing look, but I've always been weary on baking and resealing headlights. Condensation in lights is one of my biggest peeves, and I was always afraid of not getting a good seal.

May be too late, but I saw this and I actually did the bake and paint. My bezel is flat black now and looks great! The process on the stock P5 lights is fairly easy. The most work was taking off the bumper, and even that was pretty easy. As long as you re-bake the lights once the bezel is back in, the adhesive creates a great seal. I say go for it. It's really not that tough, and I'm confident that it re-seals just fine. Here's the mod thread...

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?114394-How-To-headlight-black-out-for-P5!

 

[Josue6WGN]

Thanks! I bought those headlights, but one of them came damaged, so I was going to have to try this after all. lol

 

[Lewis7789]

BINGO! Had to do a search for "Gorilla" lol

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GOR-21133RD/

These will work right? 12mm X 1.5? Cheapest so far as well.

Ask Evan #2 which lug nuts he got because his turned pink.

 

[Josue6WGN]

Eff!!!

 

[Josue6WGN]

Picked up Evan's motor tonight, time to get this show on the road!

Ran to the parts store to get all the timing belt crap, but they didn't have 1 of the cam seals, or the crank seal. Also needed to do more reading on the procedure. Are the seals NEEDED in this case? Or is it just a good idea to change them now for "insurance"?

Getting the tranny's off was a chore at 1st, but much easier the 2nd time. lol By the time we fooled with that, ran to get dinner and to the parts store, and got the engine on halfway on the stand, it was 10pm, so we called it quits. More questions though...

-Flywheel...where can I find the torque specs?

-Clutch...does anyone have the alignment tool for reinstalling it? Is it needed?

-Gaskets...I'm getting new intake, VC, exhaust, bigger stuff like that, but how reusable are the gaskets for the smaller items that bolt onto the engine? Throttle body, EGR, water neck looking thing on the driver side of the head, etc.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

Picked up Evan's motor tonight, time to get this show on the road!

Ran to the parts store to get all the timing belt crap, but they didn't have 1 of the cam seals, or the crank seal. Also needed to do more reading on the procedure. Are the seals NEEDED in this case? Or is it just a good idea to change them now for "insurance"?

At least change the crank seal, those are known to leak. The cam shaft seals are less likely to leak but if you're in there you might as well get them done.

-Flywheel...where can I find the torque specs?

In the service manual (page 05-10-11 and 05-15B-4), here are the specs you need:

• Flywheel to crankshaft: 70.9 - 75.9 ft-lbs
• Preasure plate to flywheel: 14 - 19 ft-lbs
• Transaxle - big bolts: 65 - 86 ft-lbs
• Transaxle - small bolts (two at the bottom): 28 - 38 ft-lbs

-Clutch...does anyone have the alignment tool for reinstalling it? Is it needed?

Yes, use one. It's not worth damaging the clutch disk, I doubt you'll be able to eyeball it.

-Gaskets...I'm getting new intake, VC, exhaust, bigger stuff like that, but how reusable are the gaskets for the smaller items that bolt onto the engine? Throttle body, EGR, water neck looking thing on the driver side of the head, etc.

They're cheap, buy new ones. I've re-used the EGR gasket in the past but only because it's made of metal and looked brand new.

 

[Josue6WGN]

That's what I was wondering on some of these gaskets, the metal ones.

Tomorrow will have to be a parts run and tear down day. I'm going to switch over as much stuff as I can, since mine is cleaner.

Probably do the timing belt crap on thursday. ALSO, the passanger side and rear motor mounts are in fact just the inserts. So, I may just leave those out. The originals behind them look pretty good. Still not sure on the driver side mount, I'll have to take it apart tomorrow.

 

[Lewis7789]

Save this Mazda service manual to your computer, yO!

I'm pretty sure it has a great step-by-step for the timing belt as well. With all the torque specs and tools needed. This manula beats the pants off any Haynes manual, fo sho.

Are you sure the rear motor mount is an insert? I thought it was a solid AWR mount? I know the passenger side is though. And I re-used my EGR gasket everytime I cleaned the EGR, never had any problems with it. I'd replace the TB gasket though. They aren't metal and tend to stick to the TB when removing them. Plus you don't want a leak.

 

[PrinceValorum]

-Clutch...does anyone have the alignment tool for reinstalling it? Is it needed?

I've heard you can use a deepwell socket to get it lined up. Evan still has the plastic one that came with his new clutch sitting in the garage, too (unless he already thew it away).

 

[Lewis7789]

Oh yeah, that's what I forgot to add, I still have my alignment tool from my new clutch. I'm not sure it will fit since they are different trannys but I can bring it over.

 

[Josue6WGN]

Save this Mazda service manual to your computer, yO!

I'm pretty sure it has a great step-by-step for the timing belt as well. With all the torque specs and tools needed. This manula beats the pants off any Haynes manual, fo sho.

Are you sure the rear motor mount is an insert? I thought it was a solid AWR mount? I know the passenger side is though. And I re-used my EGR gasket everytime I cleaned the EGR, never had any problems with it. I'd replace the TB gasket though. They aren't metal and tend to stick to the TB when removing them. Plus you don't want a leak.

Thanks for the link!

And yea, definitely an insert. At least, I pulled the 2 red pieces out, and there was still a motor mount in there. Insert, yes?

I've heard you can use a deepwell socket to get it lined up. Evan still has the plastic one that came with his new clutch sitting in the garage, too (unless he already thew it away).

We thought it looked like it was in good shape!

Oh yeah, that's what I forgot to add, I still have my alignment tool from my new clutch. I'm not sure it will fit since they are different trannys but I can bring it over.

Which clutch? for the 6? We could try, would be the s*** if it worked!