Well not for too long, I'm going to be painting it once I have all the mechanical/suspension the way I want it. All the visual mods so far have been from just being good deals. Plus if all goes well, I have a surprise that will hopefully set me apart from a vast majority of the Protege's on the forum, but that will have to wait and see. And I have full intentions of getting the aerocatch hood pins, JT, Cam and you have convinced me that I like the hood where it's at. (2thumbs)
JaLMP5 Build/Progress Thread
- Thread starter JaLMP5
- Start date
I completely understand, I actually started this build with no knowledge of the steedspeed or this forum. So I just jumped in with both feet and got custom things made. Full exhaust (manifold back) cost me $2200!!!! But once it's on the road I know it'll be worth it.
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
Good stuff.
Maybe I missed it, what are your plans for the engine internals / head work?
Maybe I missed it, what are your plans for the engine internals / head work?
I'm researching several different machine shops in my area. The shop that I would prefer to do my work is asking a pretty good amount of money. I plan on getting the head resurfaced , valve re-surfacing and valve seat machining . Then assembly of 1mm oversized intake & exhaust valves, new valve guides, titanium retainers, valve springs, valve seals. The block is getting aligned honed/align bore then over bore if necessary with a machined deck surface. I have a set of Pauter rods and after determining if the block needs overbore or not then I'll order the pistons.
And this is how the P5 is sitting right now. I would be about 10X further along if I wasn't battling rust issues on everything thing I try to do.
Can't see it in this picture but my rear wheel is still on because it's seized to the rotor/hub and nothing I do is getting it off. So, I figure a couple of days worth of PB blaster and WD-40 and a couple of swings from a rubber mallet will get it off.
Can't see it in this picture but my rear wheel is still on because it's seized to the rotor/hub and nothing I do is getting it off. So, I figure a couple of days worth of PB blaster and WD-40 and a couple of swings from a rubber mallet will get it off.
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
In case you need ideas:
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123792505-Maxx-Mazda-s-2011-Build-Thread
http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123792505-Maxx-Mazda-s-2011-Build-Thread
Thanks Maxx, I've been looking through your thread before. Particularly at the head assembly since that's the only part that I'm not too comfortable with. Bottom end and all other aspects of the car I'm fine with but I'm sure I'm going to mess something up on top.
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
Take your time and use the right tools and you will have no problem.
Maxx, would you recommend getting the Integral 3's since I'm doing the head work anyway? Did you have the same setup with OEM cams and if so how much of a difference between the two?
P.S.- This is for anyone so if you have/had a different set of cams other than OEM, I would also like your input.
P.S.- This is for anyone so if you have/had a different set of cams other than OEM, I would also like your input.
I noticed a huge difference!! I also did 1mm oversized valves. Well money spent in my opinion, cam and valve plus focus gears degreed make my 3076 spool super early!
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
The stage 3's are pretty aggressive for a "street" car. I had to up the idle with the Haltech to get it relatively smooth.
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
E6X. With the stock BAC I had to get pretty aggressive with the duty cycle to get it to idle properly. As you probably saw from my build thread I now run a GM 4 wire stepper.
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
- :
- Stock P5
I did. I switched to a stepper instead.
Installshield 2
Gothenburg Superiority
yeah exactly...the FS head is actually extremely simple...the lifters come right out with a magnet...I've never messed with valve removal on a mounted head, but i've seen guys do it easily with air and an adapter...but with a $20 'over head' spring compressor, a good pair of needle nose pliers, and an hour or so...with the head off too...taking the entire head completely apart is relatively simple...if you've done bottom end work, and are good with keeping things clean and in order...its no harder...and there are no nuts or bolts of any kind to worry about, so no measuring stretch, or needing to be extremely precise with torque procedure (other than the cam caps, obviously)...
the valve locks are held in place simply by spring pressure, and a cup on the lifters...so once the lifters are pulled out, and the spring is slightly compressed..the locks come right off (they're the 'halved' type locks), and can be easily grabbed by pliers...release the spring, pull it and the retainer out, note the valve guide seal depth on the valve stem, slide that off (a little engine oil helps)...and the valve will drop right out...do that 16 times and you're done haha...for whatever reason, that alone reaches $350+ at a lot of shops...
if you end up with stage 3's...its not a bad idea to go with some Eibach valve springs, as the ramp angles on those cams are pretty aggressive...Sourcing oversized valves isn't all that difficult or expensive either, but some shops will still charge a good bit for the cutting...depends where you go...
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So it's been way too long since I updated this thread. There has been little significant progress but things will be turning around here shortly. There were a couple of things that got done in the last 3 months with the car.
Pulled engine
Removed AC
I've also been collecting even more parts. Just to name a few: All 4 AWR mounts, Medieval PS pulley
CR3 Provided: Custom ADP, Custom Wiseco 8.8:1 .020 over, ARP Head studs, ARP Main studs, Cometic Headgasket
I still have to get the following parts before I can start my engine build: Complete gasket set, bearing set, timing kit, cam/crank output seals, oil pump, water pump, valve seals, and some others.
I'll try and keep this updated a little better and get some pictures up as well.
Pulled engine
Removed AC
I've also been collecting even more parts. Just to name a few: All 4 AWR mounts, Medieval PS pulley
CR3 Provided: Custom ADP, Custom Wiseco 8.8:1 .020 over, ARP Head studs, ARP Main studs, Cometic Headgasket
I still have to get the following parts before I can start my engine build: Complete gasket set, bearing set, timing kit, cam/crank output seals, oil pump, water pump, valve seals, and some others.
I'll try and keep this updated a little better and get some pictures up as well.
