Is this right? Maintenance costs and what to expect.

[zoom-zoom 2]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I really appreciate them. I'm amazed at the responsiveness and knowledge of the people on this forum.

Assumptions might be that I have the means to do any of this, but unfortunately I do not. I live in an apartment and I don't even have a garage or driveway (or any real dedicated space) to do work on my car. I'm new to the area that I'm living in now, so I don't know of any trusted mechanics, and wanted to have the work on my car done at a dealership because of this (and at least until I was out of my first 60K). I guess my main concern/question to the forum was that it wasn't unreasonable that my car would need the said work to be done to it. This is my first car, I love it, and needed the peace of mind from others who know the car and know the business. If I could get to a point where I have the means and the skills to start doing some of this stuff on my own... well, that would be awesome.

The work has been done to the car and I was at least able to get 10% off most parts and labor charges. I could pretty much tell myself that the tires were due for the replacing, and in response to a previous comment, I noticed recently that when I pressed on the brakes coming down past ~45 mph, I would get vibration in the pedal. This has been ongoing for the last 2 months or so.

What I've learned is to be a little more keen when shopping... that I have options. I've also learned that this is an awesome forum -- thanks guys!!

 

[kcdirtbro54]

You're thinking sidewall section width, not physical section width of the tire/tread itself.

Thank you.

Zoom-zoom2 - glad you got everything worked out. Glad we all could help

 

[eyeballs]

With a metric socket set alone, even if only up to 17mm, you can get plenty done on these cars. Just bring the set down to the parking lot. In the beginning it may boost your confidence a little if you can find someone on a local enthusiast forum to help out...or ideally drive out to a local "install day". You should be able to meet a bunch of people with tools eager to help out.

 

[Max Archer]

Shaowq - I'm not trying to come down on you at all, just a couple corrections...

The 205-50-15 option compared to the stock 185-55 size is actually 20mm wider than the stock 185. The first number of a tire size is the width of the tire in millimeters. The second number 50 or 55 is the aspect ratio for sidewall height. I will say that when my tires wear out, I will be going to a 195-50 or 205-50 just because there's more options in those sizes.

2nd. The rear shoes may only cost 10-15$ to the dealer BUT msrp on Mazda2 rear shoes is $91.39 online through mazdapartscenter.com and they're "discounted" online to $73.11. Can you find them cheaper elsewhere or through a hook up? Yea, I'm sure you can.

To the OP, I would take off a drum and see how much life is left on the shoes before you let someone change them.

Go 195 unless 205 saves you a whole bunch, we don't have enough power or weight to need the extra grip from the 205, so it's just dead weight in the worst place possible.

 

[shaowq]

You're thinking sidewall section width, not physical section width of the tire/tread itself.

i have three words for you and kcdirtbro...."holy s*** duh". thanks for the correction on my obvious oversight. in any case, the two online tire calcs i used before figuring it out myself incorrectly lol, mentioned that a 205/50 would be the best suitable replacement in terms of keeping your car and speedo performing to as close to stock as possible.


And to the OP, brother, this is a car forum with all kinds of different car junkies. you find people who dont own a mazda2 replying and helping u figure out your issues a lot of times too. Never be afraid to ask.

i got into modding cars after my best friends bought me a headunit for my car way back in the day and i decided to put it in myself. from that point on i never looked backed. started with oil changes and tire rotations to basic intake and exhaust installations, to replacing pullies and alternators, installing my own supercharger, brake pads, clutch and flywheel(pita), spark plugs you name it.

Its been a long journey for me and most other members. Enjoy your first car, Learn from it...cuz every car u get after this will never feel the same.

 

[genericmoniker]

^This guy. This guy right here, tugs at my heart strings.

 

[DrWebster]

With a metric socket set alone, even if only up to 17mm, you can get plenty done on these cars. Just bring the set down to the parking lot. In the beginning it may boost your confidence a little if you can find someone on a local enthusiast forum to help out...or ideally drive out to a local "install day". You should be able to meet a bunch of people with tools eager to help out.

+1, but you'll want a 19mm socket if you plan to do your own oil changes.

 

[Joker2]

+1, but you'll want a 19mm socket if you plan to do your own oil changes.

3/4" standard also works

 

[eyeballs]

yea I guess I forgot about that. Might as well get a 21mm too. Sears occasionally had pretty good sales on craftsman stuff. Nice thing about those is when you break one, just walk in with it and walk out with a new replacement, no receipt necessary.

 

[Jond63]

Last time I had a problem with a Craftsman wrench they had to send it back in for me and I had to wait for a replacement to come back via mail. Disappointed. Now I buy sockets at Lowes or Home Depot -- I think they are even nicer quality.

 

[eyeballs]

Wow, that's surprising. What type of wrench was it? Only things I've broken have been sockets (2) and ratchets (1) and all three times I just walked in, showed them, then grabbed the replacement off the shelf.

If I had to wait each time (or if I didn't have a sears close by), I'd certainly start getting tools somewhere else.

 

[Jond63]

It was a ratcheting box wrench -- it had been machined to the wrong size and wouldn't fit anything. Guy verified it but said they couldn't give me a single one off the shelf since it came from a set. ??

 

[eyeballs]

Sounds like BS to me...maybe that guy was new or something. Most wrenches are bought as a set except the oddball sizes.

 

[Joker2]

Hi all,

...They're telling me I need new tires, brake pads and rotors, shim kit, carbon cleaning for AIS and TBS, and a new serpentine belt.

Tires: 500 installed and balanced and alignment included; Michelin Pilot Exalto A/S is a great performance all season that is a tad taller than the oem tires. Currently they have a rebate on these (try Tire rack or discount tire) and I also like the Yoko S-drives if winter is mild. Rudy at tire rack is a great guy to talk to (from the Miata forum where these folks are very active).

Pads and rotors, I would get from Rosenthal Mazda, Finishline Parts: http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/PAD-SUB-SET,FRT-CALIPER-(D0YN%2d33%2d28Z).html

The pads are 61 plus shipping, the belt is 32 plus shipping, rotors are 66 each plus shipping (ouch), so 225 plus shipping for parts. Another 200 bucks in labor at local shop will get these installed.

So we are at about 900 so far using OEM Mazda parts.

Shims and springs for brakes get re-used. Do not clean TB or AIS if you do not have a problem. Dealers sell stuff they make money on, including additives for oil and gas.

So, under 1,000 bucks gets this work done and you use OEM parts for brakes (Mazda pads are excellent and better than most) and a really nice set of tires that will have you good for another 30-40,000 miles (trading some life for better grip is safer).

 

[dsgrey]

What a racket. 2011 M2 with 68k highway miles. Replaced tires at 50k with Yoko YK580s from Discount Tire for under $500. Regular oil changes and pads/rotors are in good shape. Not sure why they want to change the rotors but even if they're bad, I usually order all those parts from RockAuto or one of the online Mazda vendors for less. Just replaced my plugs today with some Autolite AP3924s and I can tell a difference. Those OEM iridiums (FoMoCo SK16PR-E13) won't last 100k.

I guess they'd charge me a fortune for maintenance on my 11 year old Miata. I've replaced the timing belt, front engine seals, water pump, all belts and hoses while I did that maintenance myself 2 years back and ordered all those OEM parts from a dealer for less than $300. Other than filters, oil, plugs and pads...nothing else. No throttle body cleaning, injector cleaning, etc and it runs like a champ with 80k miles. Granted I've GOT to replace the top.

 

[molex7]

Just replaced my plugs today with some Autolite AP3924s and I can tell a difference. Those OEM iridiums (FoMoCo SK16PR-E13) won't last 100k.

The 2 doesn't have OEM NGK iridium plugs?

 

[DrWebster]

The 2 doesn't have OEM NGK iridium plugs?

They appear to be Denso, which are IIRC also good quality like NGK:

http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/SPARK-PLUG-(ZJY6%2d18%2d110).html

If you Google the part number dsgrey listed (SK16PR-E13), you'll find a ton of results listing it as Denso, including a Google cached page of Mazda's online service manual, which includes the spark plug gap specifications:

http://webcache.googleusercontent.c....html+&cd=9&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us&client=safari

FWIW, Denso makes a *lot* of the parts on our cars...air filter, spark plugs, ECU to name a few.