Is coolant flush really necessary at 30K?

Pretzellogic said:
Plugs are easy:
1) Unplug the wires and pull them out.
2) Unplug, unbolt and pull the coil packs
3) Get yourself a spark plug socket and go to town on 'em
4) When putting the new ones in, be very careful not to overtighten. Hand tight, and then maybe a litle bit more (quarter turn?)
5) Reassemble everything.
6) Turn key
7) Zoom zoom

maybe a bit of anti seize??
 
Pretzellogic said:
Plugs are easy:
1) Unplug the wires and pull them out.
2) Unplug, unbolt and pull the coil packs
3) Get yourself a spark plug socket and go to town on 'em
4) When putting the new ones in, be very careful not to overtighten. Hand tight, and then maybe a litle bit more (quarter turn?)
5) Reassemble everything.
6) Turn key
7) Zoom zoom

I need to unscrew those 4 screws holding the wire brunches in place first, right?
 
ottawaP5 said:
It only will cost me $40 for a coolant flush.

I thought you had to change the green coolant every 2 years or 25K miles

That's what i thought as well.

IIRC...changing the coolant is important because it starts breaking down and once that happens it's like running water. Water and metal = rust. I could be wrong but this is what I vaguely remember.

edit..found this though...
"
<LI>The coolant system is an area that can often be overlooked. When you think of the stress that the coolant goes through every day, it's amazing it lasts as long as it does. Imagine a liquid that can be heated to 212-235 degrees and stay there as long as the engine is running. It would seem that staying at that heat, it would separate into different components. Well, actually it does. This takes a while to happen though. When different components are separated out of the coolant mixture, they must collect somewhere. Most of the time it is in the radiator and the heater core. Over time, this will restrict the flow of liquid through them. It can even cause them to corrode and start leaking. There are inhibitors that are added to antifreeze, but over time, they will dissipate. This is when the coolant should be changed. Antifreeze also acts as a lubricant for the seals in the water pump. If the coolant looses its lubricating properties, the seals in the water pump will fail. Then coolant will enter a bearing and cause it to fail. That is when you will see a coolant leak from the water pump, and it will have to be replaced. Old coolant can also cause the hoses to break down. Another problem with a cooling system could be a bad radiator cap. The cap should form an air tight seal to the opening of the radiator. If the seal is bad, it can allow coolant to leak past it, or even worse, allow air to enter the cooling system. When air and water are present against iron, it will cause rust. This rust will usually accumulate in the bottom of the block. This will degrade the coolant's ability to exchange heat from the engine. Is extreme cases, it can case the engine to overheat. All of these things added together make for a nightmare when it comes to repairs! Consult your owners manual to see when it is recommended to have your cooling system flushed."
 
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Denso plugs are fine, I'm still not sold on that platinum bullsh*t though...
 
Platinum is a gimick. With any kind of "upgraded" plugs on an NA, 130 hp car, you might get like 1 hp to the crank over stock and maybe .5 mpg better. I use cheap Champion plugs, cause it's just not worth that much money to get almost nothing in return.
 
anarchistchiken said:
Platinum is a gimick. With any kind of "upgraded" plugs on an NA, 130 hp car, you might get like 1 hp to the crank over stock and maybe .5 mpg better. I use cheap Champion plugs, cause it's just not worth that much money to get almost nothing in return.

I agree that the platinum stuff is overrated, but I'm not too sure about using Champion plugs in a japanese car. I've heard that NGK and Denso (regular, non-platinum stuff) fits japanese cars the best, coz most OEM plugs in these cars are NGK or Denso.
 
mogi said:
Denso plugs are fine, I'm still not sold on that platinum bullsh*t though...

Well, I didn't "pick" the platinum. There was nothing I could choose.
It was either this "double platinum" plugs for 5.99 a piece, or the "iraninum(sp)" plugs for 12.99 a piece.(smash)
 
centsless said:
some major thread jacking going here...lol

Not at all. You are all welcome to discuss anything you like in this thread.
I don't mind. The more other stuff being input here, the more I learn.
 
when I did my 31k flush and suff I went along and installed the Nology wires and there spark plugs. Their spark plugs are nickle I beleive. Check out there website.
 
centsless said:
some major thread jacking going here...lol
that was just a joke..

well, back to topic i guess.

the platinums will last longer than any other plugs. I personally have the Bosch Platinum +4, then again, there are alot here that will vouch for the NGK's Iridium IX.
 
centsless said:
some major thread jacking going here...lol

yeah, i had a tough time getting the bolts of my muffler. have to get 5 inches cut off the MSP exhaust i just picked up for my P5 last night.....



i guess i should change my cooling fluid. i turned 42K last week.......
 
Just got the plugs replaced. Took me quite a while cause the stock plugs were so tight. My socket tool doesn't have a handle long enough for me to unscrew them with light force.
It turns out that my stock plugs are not NGK, but also Denso.
From the old plugs I removed from the engine, is there any sign or anyway I can tell if there is anything wrong with the engine from them? I mean like burnt color or other sign.
 

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