iracemine's purpose built N/A ST2 thread

I went out there after work today to find my car sitting next in line. So no updates on the car. However I have not heard back from John at J&S. The tuner Ryan said that something might be dead on the safegaurd.

But as it stands I should have the car back on Wednesday. I hope....
 
Did you do head work I forget :/

Friend has higher compression, same headers as install, less peaky cams (MSF Cams) and makes 134 at the wheels. You should get there with a good tune and headwork.
 
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OK got the car back today. It gave some grief to the tuner. I was purely my fault. First problem was I had gutted the thermostat. The car never got over 90* even when it was like 80 something degrees out side. So I had to bust down there and pop a 192* thermostat in there. I'm already thinking about replacing that with a 180*. Then after getting that fixed the car started acting erratic. He thankfully found my odyssey pc680 was not doing good. Thankfully he had a odyssey charger and had to let that charge for a good while and then the car came back to normalcy. Then he started to tune it. 162whp on a dyno jet. I am happy with that.

I will have to break in the motor some and try and see if I cant figure out some of this J&S stuff and get everything worked out right (buy a odyssey charger of my own) and then I can bring it back to him for the fine tuning. I expect to get maybe 5 or 10 more. Which will put me at the same power to weight ratio of the BMW in that video. Still lots to figure out and post up. So not done yet.

No problems with the wiring (as far as I know). Trans feels like s***. I hope that works its self out. But the car feels and sounds so totally different. I hope to get a gopro and post up some more videos.
 
What rev limit was that?

Got a dyno graph?

Yes, I will snap a shot of it. It will show the trouble he was having after about 6200 rpm all the way till he set the cut at 7100. Its a nice smooth rolling line until 6200 and something goes weird. The vacuum starts fluctuating badly and he had to compensate for it. So like I said there is some stuff to sort out before I can bring it back but you will see that nice rolling line dies out. The tuner was thinking the cams, and I am thinking valve springs.
 
OK here it is. I kinda drew in a line to show how high the HP would be if this erratic stuff did not show up. (possibly 190????)
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I still feel that its valve float, but I really don't know with out actually changing the valve springs out (I stayed with the stock springs). The tuner was saying that there was crazy vacuum changes during this high rpm episode. I was hoping for some second,third opinions before I go and throw down on some better valve spring on a hunch. So please voice up! Oh and this was 5th gear run so he can spread out what the car was doing to tune it precisely.
 

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i hate your life, just today i found the last "you have been spotted" card on my damn mud flaps.

and to get back on topic, yeah it is definitely valve float.
 
I doubt youd read 190whp tbh. Installshield made 199.2 or such Hp at 8k rpm with realllly lumpy cams and somewhere in the vicinity of 12.5-13:1 compression IIRC.

What did you do about your IM?

But the way it flattens off is rather curious. Somethings occurring as your a) not getting a peak and b) those cams should keep flowing past what your BE can handle.
 
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i hate your life, just today i found the last "you have been spotted" card on my damn mud flaps.

and to get back on topic, yeah it is definitely valve float.

LOL! I did not even know you new about this thread (or remembered my drunken ramblings). I got like >50 more to go. soooo payback is a dish well served cold. lol Steve has his up comings too.
 
I doubt youd read 190whp tbh. Installshield made 199.2 or such Hp at 8k rpm with realllly lumpy cams and somewhere in the vicinity of 12.5-13:1 compression IIRC.

What did you do about your IM?

But the way it flattens off is rather curious. Somethings occurring as your a) not getting a peak and b) those cams should keep flowing past what your BE can handle.

Right something is occurring. That's what I think is valve float, or my adjustments of cam gears, or something. The microtech is working perfectly because the tuner was able to make corrections for this. So I am not thinking it is any electrical problems. I am hoping to do some searching on anyone with these huge cams and what if any problems they have had or what they did run for valve springs. But I think there is like less than 20 people out there with stage 3 cams. And even less that still own their protege.
 
Its most likely a combination of float and overlap...overlap will do the same thing to vacuum readings once rpm's get high enough, if the overlap is biased towards the intake event...above 6,000 or so rpm, you're literally talking about 1 or 2 degrees too much overlap and the above is the result...

So, before you order valve springs...i would try to move that overlap (keep the same amount) a little 'earlier' in the event (remember, 'later' would be biasing towards the intake event, as the exhaust stroke is the beginning in terms of overlap)...by a degree or two to start...you may even that out surprisingly well...

my old engine build hit those numbers because of revs...I really don't even think the compression played a huge role in the peak hp numbers, because dynamic compression was down due to overlap...but i had tuned in literally as much overlap as i could, which was very exhaust stroke sided...so my intake vacuum remained strong, and exhaust scavenging was great at higher rpm...

also, for what its worth...that engine set up would hardly be what you're after...idle was non-existent, and mid range torque simply wasn't there...unless you could keep the car on boil above 5000 rpm in all track conditions, it would've never made a protege 'fast'...

I ran Eiback valve springs in that head, with stock everything else (and pretty much twiggy cams, slightly different as it was my own design...but its what Andy and i worked on together before the group buy)...but i wasn't seeing any crazy float before i put the springs in...and that included pulls up to around 7600 rpm...so i'm guessing you may have a combination of the two...and changing where the overlap peaks can drastically effect intake charge...i bet you could dial out a good deal of your problem, and not even need to worry about springs right away...with the overlap dialed in, you'll be quickly sitting around 170whp i'd bet...

If there is float, though, it definitely isn't a lot of it...valve float will cut power nearly as bad as straight up pre-ignition/denation/missing, and the engine will struggle to keep climbing in revs because of it...you're holding your power pretty well for nearly 1000 rpm up there, and still accelerating the bottom end...i think its the overlap bleeding a fixed amount of pressure off at each cycle that is more of the issue here...
 
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Cool. Thanks man. Its always good to hear from you man. I will run this car a bit and break in the motor some and then bring it back to the tuner. The tuner was saying that he just needed time to work out the cams. So I will just calm down and be happy.

However I figured out the J&S and it works awesome. Got a new gopro and will post up some vids in the mean time. Thanks again man!
 
Set my personal best at the track. However I still never got third gear right. So I have to open that up and put in the part I thought I did not need. Motor sounds great. Gopro kinda sucks. I thought I had it set right but it was not, and it crashed right before the race so the video will suck. The car handled great, brakes sucked, and just could not keep it on the track. ordered up some brake stuff to take care of that.

After the car warms up it cant idle. I tried the iac screw and nothing happened. Tuner said that the ecu will do fine untill it throws a check engine light and then it cant idle for shjt. He also can't read anything from the obdII port. Do you guys know what this could be? I mean why can't he get the reader to talk to the stock ecu???
 
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