iracemine's purpose built N/A ST2 thread
- Thread starter iracemine
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OK still trying to get the vics to work with the microtech. I think the blue with red strip wire (pin 19) is a ground....... Not a positive. I am thinking the white with red wire is a common positive and the stock ecu is just grounding the blue with red strip wire after 5250rpm to activate it. I will try some jumper wires if no one can get back to me in time.
OK, the micro tech only makes one movement (on or off) at only one point to ground the white wire) (aux1). SOOO the way the vics works is that it needs to be on from the start (or as soon as it can make enough vacuum to operate). Then let go or turn off at 5250 to open up the long/short runners.
To get the microtech to make the vics work I will need to locate a "normally closed" relay. That way the vics will close at start-up (first chance of vacuum) to get to the short/long runners of the intake working. Then the microtech can turn this relay off at 5250 by supplying the vics relay with a ground via the blue/red wire or pin 19 and open up the long/short runners. Hopefully to achieve higher mid low range torque and HP.
Its nice to daily drive another P5 to check if I am talking BS.
To get the microtech to make the vics work I will need to locate a "normally closed" relay. That way the vics will close at start-up (first chance of vacuum) to get to the short/long runners of the intake working. Then the microtech can turn this relay off at 5250 by supplying the vics relay with a ground via the blue/red wire or pin 19 and open up the long/short runners. Hopefully to achieve higher mid low range torque and HP.
Its nice to daily drive another P5 to check if I am talking BS.
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I think I went to the tuner with the wrong idea here. I retarded the intake cam 3 degrees, and that changed nothing. Was I supposed to advance the intake gear timing instead of retard it?????
I am now at o* intake and -3* exhaust. Should I make it +6* intake and 0* exhaust?????
My interpretation of installs post is you should be retarding the intake cam to lessen the bias on the intake event
I'd reverse the exhaust retard though, retarding the exhaust effectively reduces your breathing at higher RPM and shifts peak VE downwards.
OK so 3* intake and 6* exhaust???
From memory the intake cam essentially moves the power band up or down the rev range at a high level.
If the curve had ended prematurely I'd have suggested advancing the Intake and Exhaust together to shift the power band, but its just plateauing so I don't know the answer. Just interpreting installs post based on my knowledge, hopefully hes able to chime in and correct or confirm my theory
The basic premise of all my theories is you change one variable and keep the others as consistent as possible so that any changes made can be easily attributed. This method I find tends to work best for me as it allows me to build up a knowledge base of cause and effect. It's also how I think though so *shrug*
The plateauing doesn't really make much sense to me, If you do respond install care to explain in further depth please man?
If the curve had ended prematurely I'd have suggested advancing the Intake and Exhaust together to shift the power band, but its just plateauing so I don't know the answer. Just interpreting installs post based on my knowledge, hopefully hes able to chime in and correct or confirm my theory
The basic premise of all my theories is you change one variable and keep the others as consistent as possible so that any changes made can be easily attributed. This method I find tends to work best for me as it allows me to build up a knowledge base of cause and effect. It's also how I think though so *shrug*
The plateauing doesn't really make much sense to me, If you do respond install care to explain in further depth please man?
megacycle stage three cams N/A
Camshaft Lobe Center / Duration Calculator
Intake Opens BTDC (ATDC is -) : 13(in degrees)
Intake Closes ABDC : 46(in degrees)
Exhaust Opens BBDC : 47(in degrees)
Exhaust Closes ATDC (BTDC is -) : 12(in degrees)
Your cam has an Overlap of 25.00 degrees
Intake Duration of 239.00 degrees.
The Exhaust Duration is 239.00 degrees.
The Inlet Cam has an Installed Centerline of 106.50 degrees ATDC.
The exhaust cam has an Installed Centerline of 107.50 degrees BTDC.
stock cams
Camshaft Lobe Center / Duration Calculator
Intake Opens BTDC (ATDC is -) : 2(in degrees)
Intake Closes ABDC : 48(in degrees)
Exhaust Opens BBDC : 48(in degrees)
Exhaust Closes ATDC (BTDC is -) : 2(in degrees)
Your cam has an Overlap of 4.00 degrees
Intake Duration of 230.00 degrees.
The Exhaust Duration is 230.00 degrees.
The Inlet Cam has an Installed Centerline of 113.00 degrees ATDC.
The exhaust cam has an Installed Centerline of 113.00 degrees BTDC.
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measured where?
Got a lot going on now. Car is at the chassis shop getting a new harness bar installed for the new seat. I just wish I new 9 years ago before I bought that sparco seat that the harness holes where way to low for me. Guess that is the last straw to make me never go back to northstar motorsports amongst a few other things they have or not have done before.
Like I said before I got the vics working perfectly. Some good and some bad came from that. Tuner showed me this.
The bad.... now the bottom end is doing the same fluctuation as the top end. Unplug it and it went away. So to test it one more step I retarded the intake cam back to 5* and found that the mid range came up about 5hp and lost the top end about 10hp. So I don't think its the cams doing this. They are responding and in there right. The good.... It is showing me that the motor might be getting choked out by the intake manifold. Its the only stock thing left (besides the throttle body). So I ordered a 2000 626 mani and will be putting that in before the weekend. I am hoping to get rid of this crazy vacuum pulsing and be done with this. Dyno time is extremely expensive.
Also I am on my third starter (stock rebuilt twice). I have a feeling that this little motorcycle battery is not up to the job when its cold out side. When warm... the CCA is just fine. But never the less another parasite on my wallet.
I have a good feeling about the brakes. With the new pedal installed and the larger bore MC the pedal feels almost stock! No need to have the car running to make them work is a huge comfort to me. As I have been towed in a few times and with out power to the brakes its not a nice thing to deal with. On top of that I am also eager to have the same braking response in every corner time after time.
Forgot about the bend in the pedal. And yes that bucket of parts removed is getting quite heavy!
Attachments
Asking if the cams were measured at the same lift. Stock cams were measured at .003".
To compare the cams they both need to have been measured at the same lift
Intake Manifold wont cause that :/ Unless VCTS is kicking in? 626 IM will be good for a midrange bump but isnt a high rpm manifold. ITB's would have been a good route
Have you checked Fuelling?
What did you try in regards to cam ajustments? Your using focus cam gears correct?
To compare the cams they both need to have been measured at the same lift
Intake Manifold wont cause that :/ Unless VCTS is kicking in? 626 IM will be good for a midrange bump but isnt a high rpm manifold. ITB's would have been a good route
Have you checked Fuelling?
What did you try in regards to cam ajustments? Your using focus cam gears correct?
What do you have the camgears set at; in/ex? Make sure you change that tensioner spring on the timing belt it's way stretched.
Btw, just read the above post ^^. Try going a step colder on the plugs too
The MSF used ZFR6 plugs, standard ZE used ZFR5.
Yeah that does sound like a good idea.
I will be going to the dyno again with -3* in and +3* ex. And yes that poor little guy got replaced during the build.
And yeah focus on the ex side.
As far as custom intakes what is there that is out there for the fs motor????
What are the previous values you've used? Remember your trying to reduce the overlap a little. Moving both gears maintains the same amount of overlap.
No custom intakes at least none designed for NA. Can try a 505 IM if you wish but really you'd benefit the most from ITBs. Grab a set of hyabusa throttles and space them out on a made up plenum. Or grab a set of Blacktop throttles and have an adapter plate made (the route im going down).
No custom intakes at least none designed for NA. Can try a 505 IM if you wish but really you'd benefit the most from ITBs. Grab a set of hyabusa throttles and space them out on a made up plenum. Or grab a set of Blacktop throttles and have an adapter plate made (the route im going down).
I'm running in-3/ex-3 for more high end. less loss at the end of the power stroke and more intake charge packing into the compression stroke. It seems to make the best power on my engine with these camgear settings and it idles great at 1000 rpm with 15 deg advance. I've been having problems making power above 6500 My afr's drop from around 12.7 down to around low 11's above 6000 even with less injector open time up high,telling me it's not breathing enough up high no matter what kind overlap I set on the cam gears with Integral stage 2.5 cams, but even the stage 3's are somewhat mild relative to the dimensions on some of the High perf. Honda/Nissan/Mitsubishi cams due to the limitations on the bucket/shim dimensions on the FS engine. If I were going to keep my car and dump more $ into it I would make my own manifold, it's not that hard to do, i'm surprised no one has done it yet.I think with a slightly bigger throttle body and the right dimension intake manifold and intake tube, with a 2.5" exhaust, I could make another 10-15 hp.
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Noah was trying to get a Jenvey to do an ITB setup, but I don't think that went anywhere: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/show...Turbo-Option-Available)&highlight=505zoom+cab
Also, there's the 505Zoom cold air box that has an NA option. I don't know why I can't find the GB thread for it on here though...
