I'm calling out the guy that claims to have installed a Walbro in an MS6...

come on guys, you're starting to sound like camaro owners

ROFL! I'd say worse...Mustang owners, lol!

A little update. I may have drilled too many holes in the bucket. Fuel sloshes out under heavy G's (even straight line accelleration). This happened in my evo, so I have two remedies, one of which will be implied by the end of this week. First, I'm reopening the tank to put in a couple baffels; one curved one behind the bucket, and one short one on the driver's side of the hump in the middle of the tank. I'm hoping this will be enough to prevent the bucket from draining under heavy accelleration and cornering. There's no exact science to doing this, but the basic idea is to slow the fuel's movement through the tank down enough to keep the pump from being starved. Another thing i thought about doing was to reinstall the stock pump in the back of the tank, wire it up, and plumb it to continuously be dumping fuel into the bucket. I'm a little uneasy about having spliced wires in my fuel tank though. The second thing I'm going to deffinately do is change out my hardlines with steel braided lines, and add a surge tank up in the engine bay. That way, if the pump does ever get starved under load, the engine will never know. Then I can clear out the air in the surge tank every so often if needed. Fun times.
 
ROFL! I'd say worse...Mustang owners, lol!

A little update. I may have drilled too many holes in the bucket. Fuel sloshes out under heavy G's (even straight line accelleration). This happened in my evo, so I have two remedies, one of which will be implied by the end of this week. First, I'm reopening the tank to put in a couple baffels; one curved one behind the bucket, and one short one on the driver's side of the hump in the middle of the tank. I'm hoping this will be enough to prevent the bucket from draining under heavy accelleration and cornering. There's no exact science to doing this, but the basic idea is to slow the fuel's movement through the tank down enough to keep the pump from being starved. Another thing i thought about doing was to reinstall the stock pump in the back of the tank, wire it up, and plumb it to continuously be dumping fuel into the bucket. I'm a little uneasy about having spliced wires in my fuel tank though. The second thing I'm going to deffinately do is change out my hardlines with steel braided lines, and add a surge tank up in the engine bay. That way, if the pump does ever get starved under load, the engine will never know. Then I can clear out the air in the surge tank every so often if needed. Fun times.

damnit...i am a mustang owner lol (hand)
 
I think that BoostedSpd6 is a douche and should be banned.I heard about this on another forum.If anyone needs some help on what may work or not,just ask me.I work for Mazda and have one of the most modded NA 6's in the USA.
 
Well, mine's up and running better than ever. No problems have arisen from the extra pressure and flow, unless you consider not getting fuel cut a problem, lol.
 
Ate..I hate to say it..but even if this guy lied..you have hacked and modded so much s*** just to get this thing in..it's a wonder it works at all.

And now, you have to go back in and make baffles.....I can see where this is gonna go.

I am really interested to see how long this pump will hold up and be reliable.

It sounds like you have parts just"wedged: together..and you have zip ties holding filters on in the tank...Your kidding right?

What is the Speed6...about a $25K car...and yor trusting Zip ties....?

Yup..you are definately more intelligent than that Boostd6..for sure.

And I am sorry..Getting a fuel pump to work isnt rocket science.
Couldn't you have saved your self a ton of work by making a new pickup tube assembly and adding a high flow "frame mount " style pump and called it a day. At least then it could have been put back to stock.
 
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Ate..I hate to say it..but even if this guy lied..you have hacked and modded so much s*** just to get this thing in..it's a wonder it works at all.

And now, you have to go back in and make baffles.....I can see where this is gonna go.

I am really interested to see how long this pump will hold up and be reliable.

It sounds like you have parts just"wedged: together..and you have zip ties holding filters on in the tank...Your kidding right?

What is the Speed6...about a $25K car...and yor trusting Zip ties....?

Yup..you are definately more intelligent than that Boostd6..for sure.

And I am sorry..Getting a fuel pump to work isnt rocket science.
Couldn't you have saved your self a ton of work by making a new pickup tube assembly and adding a high flow "frame mount " style pump and called it a day. At least then it could have been put back to stock.

Well, to start, if this guy hadn't lied, I wouldn't have gotten a pump that doesn't fit. Whooosh is now in the midst of testing a direct replacement that, according to him, fits 100% perfectly with no modifications. A perfect drop in. Once he gets the tool and gets this confirmed, he'll announce all the details. Supposedly, it out flows the Walbro a tad, but it also costs ~$300.

As for the "hacking" and all, I appologize for not updating this thread as I did in the other forum. I of coarse ended up with a sealing issue between the pump and the sleeve. I was anticipating it even. I contacted Whooosh who had purchased a whole new bucket assembly to mount a new bracket inside of and he was planning on adding an adjustable regulator and ditching the sleeve altogether. He had already bored out the sleeve to fit the Walbro, but his plans no longer required it. I bought the modified sleeve from him and swapped everything out virtually problem free. I had to cut the old sleeve off of the Walbro, and upon doing so, discovered that the sleeve is also a pre-regulator filter. This means anyone ditching the sleeve should add a high flow fuel filter in-line.

As far as the zip ties go, they are merely holding the pump upright. Lateral forces in a bucket, which is locked in place in the tank cannot be enough to cause a heavy duty zip tie to fail. I would have to be side-swiped at 50+mph for those zip ties to break, and if that happens, I really don't care so much about the pump. I used good chemical proof ones too. There is no problem there what-so-ever. The book for the Walbro even suggested it, so I have no reason to believe it's shotty.

I started this project under the assumption that the Walbro was a direct replacement. As it turns out, it's not. There were no instructions on how to change a fuel pump on even a regular 6, let alone a speed 6, so I kinda had to go at it alone. I descided to guinea-pig my $30k car to find out the results, and I was prepared to do what it took to get it operational. If you're afraid to cut a little bit here or trim a little bit there, then guess what, you will always be limited to bolt-ons.

BTW, the baffels have been in for a couple weeks now without any problems either. I've had the gas light on "E" a couple times since then, and I don't have any more starvation in the bucket.

Pick up tubes, maybe for some people in the future, but you have to realize that requires alot more modifying than what I went through. When you do one of those, you have to keep into consideration the location/hieght of the pump, the location/hieght of the pick up, the location/hieght of the return line, location of the two new penetrations, plugging the two old penetrations, ect. If it wouldn't have worked, I'd be buying a new tank, not just a new bucket assembly. Now that it's confirmed to work, it can be perfected. Believe me, if you think I'm done messing with my fuel system, you are hugely mistaking.
 
1st off....Well thought out and stated post.

Second...I understand the guinea pig thing and have been there myself with the MSP in its Early stages.
I just dont agree with how you got to where you are..or some of the methods you are implementing.
All in all it sounds like you are a smart guy..I just dont fully agree with your first attempt to get this done.
I am sure you guys will get this figured out and worked out down to a science and I wish you luck in the endeavor.
 
that's good to hear.Did you and Whoosh do a write up on this?

There is kind of a scattery thread on the other forum that contains all the details, but I believe Whoosh is going to do an official write up once he's done with his tests. Right now PRacing has the tool, and is installing a Walbro as we speak. He has a standback, so I'm sure we'll be seeing some hard evidence of improvement.
 
What is soo special about this tool BTW..I want to see a pic of this damn thing..LOL!
 
1st off....Well thought out and stated post.

Second...I understand the guinea pig thing and have been there myself with the MSP in its Early stages.
I just dont agree with how you got to where you are..or some of the methods you are implementing.
All in all it sounds like you are a smart guy..I just dont fully agree with your first attempt to get this done.
I am sure you guys will get this figured out and worked out down to a science and I wish you luck in the endeavor.

Fair enough. We all got the same goals, right?
 
What is soo special about this tool BTW..I want to see a pic of this damn thing..LOL!

The tool is required to open the tank. It depresses three tabs while it turns the retaining ring. Mazda wants ~$185 for it and you have to wait for it to ship from Japan. Whoosh got a group together to throw in for it for our uses. There's a couple pics in the other forum showing it. Once we're all pretty much done with it, we've considered renting it out with a core charge or something, but that's a little ways away. There's eight of us total, and I'm the only one done enough to not need the tool until I check everything over in the spring.
 
the drop in pump will literally fit w/o any mods at all and flows 265l/h
I'm waiting for confirmation before I can say this is 100% for sure.
 
Wow i just ran across this thread. Holy s*** is all i can say!!

Anyhow, Whoosh, what did you find out about that pump? Also, is there an inline solution that can be fabbed up instead?
 
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