IF YOU HAVE CLICKING FROM ENGINE OR ANYTHING of the sort PLEASEEEEEE READ!!!!!!

yes they can. just pull the clutch disk out and see.

whats to say im a bad driver and slip the clutch a ton when driving. a worn disk is not necessarily indicative of abuse...hell my buddy went through 3 clutches in 40k because his girl used the clutch as a dead pedal
 
whats to say im a bad driver and slip the clutch a ton when driving. a worn disk is not necessarily indicative of abuse...hell my buddy went through 3 clutches in 40k because his girl used the clutch as a dead pedal
who said smth about worn? if you do burnouts and stupid s*** like that you frying your clutch. it is not about worn only but mostly color of the surface
 
thats exactly my point if your clutch is worn and slipping it will burn, there is no way to distinguish between a burned clutch from a bad driver and a clutch thats worn from launches since the end result is the same.

The only way to tell if youve been launching is to open the tranny and inspect the teeth on the gears, if they're sheared off then yes your launching. i dont think they will go through all that trouble unless they really have to
 
thats exactly my point if your clutch is worn and slipping it will burn, there is no way to distinguish between a burned clutch from a bad driver and a clutch thats worn from launches since the end result is the same
have you ever took out clutch after drag race?
if you think there is no diff between regular worn and beat up worn - you're wrong. depends on clutch but after beating s*** off your car you will see light blue layer over the disc working surface. plus adequate mechanic would not only check this but pressure plate/flywheel worn level/bearings etc

I understand your point but it is not always true. Thats all I meant to say.
 
Ok so i'm taking my car in to another dealership in a couple of days to be looked at. This dealership comes highly recommended by 2 friends and is also where some Mazda clubs meet. Hopefully they will be able to shed some more light into this clicking issue and i'll be sure to let you guys know what they say.
 
same thing here. gonna take it in. Im no mechanic

I fixed the problem. It was the front end links driver side. it was busted. it's joint that connects the shaft and the bolt that was causing the clunking. when it's in the car and all bolted up tightly you would never guess it is it because it's tight in there that it takes bumps and dips on the road to trigger the clunk, but when I took it out of the car I can definitely feel the difference between a good one and the busted one. So good thing I was a set of AWR front end links i bought two years ago that i never got to install, i put it in and the clunking was gone. My car sound as good as new now. I guess I wont be trading it in anymore. But if another piece breaks unprovoke..i swear...
 
Mazda said I have a bad Engine mount #3 (passenger). They are replacing it and will see if the noise goes away. I'm almost certain the sound is coming from the driver side, but we'll see.
 
They replaced the mount and the sound is still there...

Yesterday I called them back and told them that i was concerned that the engine mount issue may be unrelated to the problem that i brought the car in for because the sound is coming from the driver side - a friend confirmed this while standing outside the car. The guy's response to that was "If you want to come down here and fix the car yourself then go right ahead"...

What's the outcome? Car makes the same loud popping noise as soon as i reverse out of the spot they parked it in at the dealership. I swear, can people not do their job? Must EVERY dealership i talk to be rude?

Does anyone know of a dealership in the RTP area (Raleigh, Cary, Apex, Durham NC) that is not Captial Mazda or Millenium Mazda that has GOOD service? I'm so frustrated. I've taken the car in 3 times for this. First time they "couldnt recreate the issue" Second time they said it was the ABS pump and not to worry about it (wtf?) 3rd time it's the engine mount (which i'm glad they replaced, but thanks for not listening to my concerns).
 
Is there any easy way for you to describe it's location? Difficult to take out?

i too am interested in this. ive been getting a clunking from what i thought was my endlinks for a while now and would like some help. i hardly think my struts are gone yet and know the clunking is coming from somewhere else.
 
Is there any easy way for you to describe it's location? Difficult to take out?

It's easy to take out. Take off the wheel driverside since u said it's coming from that side. Two bolts golds it in place one connects at the strut the other at the sway bar. Inspect the joints by pullin on it and pushing it together and if it clicks then it's busted. That click is amplified when the car is in motion. Then replace it with aftermarket or oem. That fixed my problem Anyway. Good luck
 
It's easy to take out. Take off the wheel driverside since u said it's coming from that side. Two bolts golds it in place one connects at the strut the other at the sway bar. Inspect the joints by pullin on it and pushing it together and if it clicks then it's busted. That click is amplified when the car is in motion. Then replace it with aftermarket or oem. That fixed my problem Anyway. Good luck

i started getting a small click/clunk from just the front but recently its amplified and sounds like its coming from all 'round. may have to check the whole suspension over.
 
Had a slight Ticking start yesterday after I was down shifting to slow down to go over rough RR tracks, heard a loud pop, 20 min later when decelerating in gear started to hear a tick, tick, tick, push clutch in goes away, hit brakes or accelerate it goes away.
Got with the top driveline tech this morning he confirmed sound, 45 min later I was told by the Tech that there was a bearing locating pin broke I believe( old and bad memory) and they said they will order the part and should have it Monday, said was safe to drive , bearing in place but don't be crazy!
 
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