I need to know exactly how to get the car to hesitate.

I've been reading and reading and reading about this new fix, even though I feel like I've never felt the hesitation. I'am usually pretty anal about cars so I pick up on minute things. This is my gf's car so i don't drive it all that much if ever. I'am going to do my usual inspection on her car to make sure everything is fine. I need to know how to make the hesitation happen.

What RPM does it happen in?
What is the outside temp?
Does this happen when the car is fully warmed up or when it's still cold?
What mph should I be going?
What gear is it more promenint in?
Are you at full throttle, partial throttle, or feathering it?
Is it only accelerating or does the hesitation happen when cruising also?

and last what are the characteristics of the hesitation? Does it feel like a 5hp loss or a 40 hp loss or does it stop accelerating even though the gas pedal is mashed? Is it mild or wild? Does it keep stumbling or does it hicup?

Thank you
Jonas
 
Street KingFD said:
I've been reading and reading and reading about this new fix, even though I feel like I've never felt the hesitation. I'am usually pretty anal about cars so I pick up on minute things. This is my gf's car so i don't drive it all that much if ever. I'am going to do my usual inspection on her car to make sure everything is fine. I need to know how to make the hesitation happen.

What RPM does it happen in?
What is the outside temp?
Does this happen when the car is fully warmed up or when it's still cold?
What mph should I be going?
What gear is it more promenint in?
Are you at full throttle, partial throttle, or feathering it?
Is it only accelerating or does the hesitation happen when cruising also?

and last what are the characteristics of the hesitation? Does it feel like a 5hp loss or a 40 hp loss or does it stop accelerating even though the gas pedal is mashed? Is it mild or wild? Does it keep stumbling or does it hicup?

Thank you
Jonas

I finaly got to first hand experience it in a MSp yesturday and heres what it was.

The RPM range seems to be 3K-5.5K. At 5.5K it seems like the turbo kicks back in or whatever was holding the car back finaly releases it.
Outside temp seems to be unimportant but hotter makes it slighlty worse. Even at 60 degrees it will happen on the cars so inflicted.
The only consensus seems to be that the car indeed has to be fully warmed up and driven for a good 10 minutes.
MPH doesn't matter its trying to accelerate once in the for mentioned RPM range when it will happen.
I noticed it in 2nd threw 4th gear.
Hard acceleration seems to avoid the problem if you can keep the RPMs above 5K but if you were cruising at 40 MPH at 2.5K RPM and try to accelerate the hesitation will slow the car down more then a normal protege.

For a story line:
We took the car out in about 75 degree day and the car was warm as it had only been sitting for 1/2 hour after a long drive.
Accelerating normaly there was no issue in 1st. Then shifting to 2nd the car pulled well and even pushed us back into the seat untill we hit 3K and then it felt like someone hit the brakes and our bodies were actualy tossed foward slighly as it was such a drastic change in acceleration. The car did not acclerate again until 5500 RPM and then in all gears it did the same thing.
 
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Good Write up 1st MP3 :D

That's exactly it.

I took mine into the dealer last Friday, and they said they couldn't reproduce it (WTF!) and when I got back into my car I noticed that my radio settings were deleted (hence they unhooked the battery for awhile)

BASTARDS!:mad: that's all they did
 
Next time insist the dealer drive it with you in the car. They can not refuse that and when they try start yelling that they are trying to **** you at the top of your lungs, loud enough for every customer in the show room to here you. I find that atleast 2 references to butt **** and KY jelly will clear out a show room in no time (thumb)

Another thing about hesitation is that everyones car seems different. In the MSP I drove it was DEADLY obvious, my exat words when it happened were "WHAT THE ****!!!". You could not mistake it. Other people have gotten rid of it with an intake and others will have it come back after 500 miles with the intake.
Yet some people say they can't notice it or think it may happen.
This makes me think the ECU is only part of it otherwise all the cars would be the same given the same conditions.
 
Thank you that is exactly what I needed to know. Now that I think of it, I do notice it but to a smaller extent. it seems to me like the car isn't breathing till it hits 4.5k. It starts out like you said, pushing you into the seat then it gets real mild then at the 4.5k mark it hits back then I can feel the power come on real good. I always thought it was just the powerband coming into play but I guess not.

Jonas
 
Yeah...

No doubt it's the ECU. Infact, mine did run great for about 15 miles after they reset the ECU, and then back to the biddy bump bump. :(

LOL on the KY and Butt raping... I will keep that in mind, but I'm gonna try another dealership.. those guys don't like to deal w/ customers much (even though they are in that award winnning circle bulls*** and presidents award bulls*** as well)
 
And I think it should be said that if you do what "1st" said and all you feel is a "pulsating" acceleration, that's not normal either. I consider that pulsing to be a mild form of the hesitation "bug." There's no good reason the thing shouldn't just accelerate nice and smooth like every other car on the road -- but when it's drowning in gasoline, what do you expect I guess.
 
I occasionally get a power drop off at 3500, but it kicks into full boost at 4k. I just thought it was turbo lag...
 
where do u live? that might playa big factor...it seems to me the more humid the more hesitation which im sure everyone agrees on.. but on another note, i put synthetic oil in my car yesterday and the hesitation was alot less noticeable... i dont see how an oil change can affect our issue but then again it was a cooler dryer day than usual so im sure thats why...
 
I was wondering about this hesitation issue as well.

I've been trying to simulate it too for some time - with no luck. Since Dexter doesn't have this issue either. Maybe the weather conditions do play a factor since me and Dexter both live in Chicago.

Still haven't decided if I'll pick up Joe's products to help out with this, since I haven't experienced it yet.
 
Joes product is not simply for hesitation it also increases power by leaning out the air/fuel mixture(FPR Kit) and increases the boost ( MBC Kit)

Hesitationis a different animal and I am seriously doubting the ECu at this point is the cuase unless there are several versions of code floating around in different cars.

Also YOU WILL NEVER NEED TO SIMULATE IT. It is so blazingly obvious it isn't funny. Litteraly the car goes from MSP to Deawoo in a heartbeat!
 
Yeah, you're absolute right. There is no need to try to simulate it. If it happens, it happens. And from how you're explaining it - I'm sure, if it does happen, I'll be saying the same thing - WTF!$? :wtf:

As for Joe's products, the only thing holding me back is the warranty. I've heard that most dealers won't even notice the FPR Kit. But if I got the MBC Kit, I'd also have to get a boost gauge. I think that might tip them off and they might pay a little more attention to what's under the hood.

decisions? :confused: decisions?

[by the way, that yoda fight scene was the illest light sabre battle by far! Too bad it was soo short.]
 
With an MBC kit they can viod the warrenty if needed but not for a boost guage. I would do it and just make the MBC easily removable if needed. A boost guage is passive so nothing they can claim cuased it there.
 
I agree with 1st, if it was for sure the ECU they all would have the problem, and it is so obvious on mine that I have a hard time believing that anyone who had the hesitation could be missing it.

At 1/2-WOT, 2-4 gears, about 3500-4500 rpm, anyone who rides with me can feel pulsing/slugishness.
 
DISCLAIMER
***This is my own personal opinion, and I have nothing to back this up***

I feel it could have to do with the ECU in the fact that it is programmed to run more rich than needed. That being said, I also believe it has a lot to do with air flow to the turbo, and tempreature/humitidity. The rich mixture alone, I don't think would cause the car to act the way it does, but when you throw in MOIST and HOT air with a restrictive air flow, that makes the conditions worse...which would explain why the FPR works for some people and why the CAI works for others.

With the CAI, you have colder air entering the mix...also, the pipes have less "snaking" through the engine bay and are larger, which is less of a restriction, hence better air/fuel mixutre. If you add the FPR, you reduce the amount of fuel thrown into the mix, and that could help even more with delivering more power.

Again, this is just my common sence mind playing tricks with me, cause I'm still kinda afraid to do anything without Mazdas approval...the setup they have on the MSP is soo new to them, who knows what might happen that could be covered under the warranty....unless of course you drilled a hole in your intake pipe to add a FPR or installed a MBC.

Is there anyone here who could back up my thoughts?
Thanks,
Jesse
 
My thought Jesse is that if 2 MSPs stock are in the same ambiant temp and with relitively the same humidity and altitude the for the problem to be the ECU both cars have to have the hesitiation. In another area say Chicago ,which isn't a huge difference in altitude or in humidity, if the temp and humidy level is basicly the same then both cars would have the issue but even Slug who is basicly donw the road from you doesn't have it bad at all. So to me there must be a constant among the cars that have the issue and if all the cars have the same computer program then they must all have the issue.
 

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