I dumped my CX-5 finally

I'd use stock wheels for winter (or possibly sell and go with 17s)and get wider ones with 245s for the other 3 seasons with something grabby.
 
-Lack of remote start
-225 series is too narrow, 245's woulda been prime
-Info system is laggy

Those are nitpicks though, and not a big deal to me.

Funny you mention the tires. Someone has a CX-5 in my complex and just the other day I noticed how oddly skinny the tires look, especially from the rear. Doesnt do the cars design justice.

Anyone know if theres a wider Mazda wheel/tire that could stand-in? Perhaps from the CX-9?
 
Funny you mention the tires. Someone has a CX-5 in my complex and just the other day I noticed how oddly skinny the tires look, especially from the rear. Doesn*t do the car*s design justice.

Anyone know if there*s a wider Mazda wheel/tire that could stand-in? Perhaps from the CX-9?

CX-9 wheels are wider, but only slightly. The 18s are 8" wide with a +45 offset, and the 20s are 8.5" wide with a +45 offset. I wouldn't recommend them because they are likely much heavier than the CX-5's wheels (the 20x8.5 wheels weigh 39.55 lbs each).

Other Mazda wheels would probably work, but one should also consider load ratings and offset when shopping the different wheels.
 
^That's insane(weight on 20s) yeah I think 19s is where you want to be(at least for summer set up)- 8 wide is probably good(7 is stock I thought?)- and stay light my friends...turbo will handle that weight better but I damn near ruined mine by trying to go wider, thus heavier- 235/55-19 Pirelli Scorpions..they let me swap to stock size P7 AS but they suck too- rated well but A23s are better on the CX5.
 
Funny you mention the tires. Someone has a CX-5 in my complex and just the other day I noticed how oddly skinny the tires look, especially from the rear. Doesn*t do the car*s design justice.

Anyone know if there*s a wider Mazda wheel/tire that could stand-in? Perhaps from the CX-9?

You can run 245 width tires on the OEM GT wheels. You don't necessarily need to get new wheels if you just want to run wider tires. Of course the wider tires will look and perform better on wider wheels.
 
You can run 245 width tires on the OEM GT wheels. You don't necessarily need to get new wheels if you just want to run wider tires. Of course the wider tires will look and perform better on wider wheels.

Ah I didnt realize that. Whats the consensus best tire size for the OEM wheels in terms of looks and performance?
 
Ah I didn*t realize that. What*s the consensus *best* tire size for the OEM wheels in terms of looks and performance?

I don't know that there is a consensus for best tire size, but if you go with 245 width tires, your only option really is 245/50/19. That tire size only has a -0.3% difference compared to the stock tire size. There is a little bulge, because the stock wheels are only 7 inches wide, but it looks fine.

https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123863145-Anyone-Running-245-50-19-Tires&p=6566277&viewfull=1#post6566277
 
It's helpful to separate fact from preference. It's a provable fact that, statistically speaking, extended warranties are not a good investment. The math on this doesn't lie. But every one of us decides the value of things for ourselves and that's a subjective component that can't be squared up with the facts sometimes.

If you personally gain a sense of peace of mind from buying an extended warranty and that feeling is valuable to you, then the extended warranty and its cost has value and may well be worth it to you. It's all in how you frame that sense of value.

I challenge that math. The warranties in CRs writeups were short term, as in, 60k miles, etc. instead of 150k miles like mine. Of course a 60k mile warranty on top of OEM is bad money. However, once a vehicle is 7-9 yesrs and 130k miles old...water pumps, ac compressors, turbos...they start to be risky.
 
It's helpful to separate fact from preference. It's a provable fact that, statistically speaking, extended warranties are not a good investment. The math on this doesn't lie. But every one of us decides the value of things for ourselves and that's a subjective component that can't be squared up with the facts sometimes.

If you personally gain a sense of peace of mind from buying an extended warranty and that feeling is valuable to you, then the extended warranty and its cost has value and may well be worth it to you. It's all in how you frame that sense of value.

I like the idea of the extended warranty in that it allows a person to follow through with their plan of owning a vehicle for x amount of years before upgrading. Often times folks trade in their car when they lose confidence in its reliability. If Unobtanium or some hypothetical person feels the best financial decision is to keep their car for 10 years, but gets cold feet after 6, then to me the price of the extended warranty is a fraction of the cost of starting the car payment clock over 4 years early.
 
I like the idea of the extended warranty in that it allows a person to follow through with their plan of owning a vehicle for x amount of years before upgrading. Often times folks trade in their car when they lose confidence in its reliability. If Unobtanium or some hypothetical person feels the best financial decision is to keep their car for 10 years, but gets cold feet after 6, then to me the price of the extended warranty is a fraction of the cost of starting the car payment clock over 4 years early.

Having an extended warranty doesn't necessarily give you confidence in its reliability; a breakdown is a breakdown, even if the cost of fixing it doesn't come out of your pocket.

My wife bought an extended warranty with her Hyundai Accent (both before we met). Sure, she didn't have to worry about out-of-pocket-costs for 7 years or 140,000km (up from 5yr/100Kkm here in Canada), but the 8 repairs that warranty covered didn't give us any confidence in her car's reliability at all. At the end of the day, the Accent needed more repairs in 7 years than my past 2 Mazdas over 12 years combined, and since the repairs were all drivetrain-related, we couldn't trust it to be anything more than an around-town runabout.
 
Having an extended warranty doesn't necessarily give you confidence in its reliability; a breakdown is a breakdown, even if the cost of fixing it doesn't come out of your pocket.

My wife bought an extended warranty with her Hyundai Accent (both before we met). Sure, she didn't have to worry about out-of-pocket-costs for 7 years or 140,000km (up from 5yr/100Kkm here in Canada), but the 8 repairs that warranty covered didn't give us any confidence in her car's reliability at all. At the end of the day, the Accent needed more repairs in 7 years than my past 2 Mazdas over 12 years combined, and since the repairs were all drivetrain-related, we couldn't trust it to be anything more than an around-town runabout.

Instead of "reliability" I should've said "ability of vehicle to last the entire term without major unanticipated costs".
 
I challenge that math. The warranties in CRs writeups were short term, as in, 60k miles, etc. instead of 150k miles like mine. Of course a 60k mile warranty on top of OEM is bad money. However, once a vehicle is 7-9 yesrs and 130k miles old...water pumps, ac compressors, turbos...they start to be risky.

Well, this is the era of each individual deciding what the truth is for themselves. ;)

Like I said this is one of those subjects that has an intangible factor that cannot be quantified with numbers. You feel the warranty is worth the money, so for you it is. I'm not trying to argue to the contrary, just pointing out that all the statistical studies that have been done on the matter suggests that it normally does not pan out from a financial perspective.
 
Well, this is the era of each individual deciding what the truth is for themselves. ;)

Like I said this is one of those subjects that has an intangible factor that cannot be quantified with numbers. You feel the warranty is worth the money, so for you it is. I'm not trying to argue to the contrary, just pointing out that all the statistical studies that have been done on the matter suggests that it normally does not pan out from a financial perspective.

My insurance company still wont let me identify as a 65 year old female, so don't tell me about deciding our own truths.
 
My insurance company still wont let me identify as a 65 year old female, so don't tell me about deciding our own truths.
Ha! (rofl)

Tell me about it, my car insurance just renewed for the next 6 months at $20/month higher rate. Sucks to be a 20's male. No at fault accidents, or tickets, $1000 collision deductible and yet I'm now paying $183/month which is up from about $145/month a year ago and $132/month before that.

Sad thing is I shopped around and it's still the cheapest I can get. :(
 
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Holy crap!!!! Is insurance in CO higher than other states? Im paying about $630 for 6 months, two vehicles (13 CX5 and 17 Odyssey) with $250 comprehensive and $500 collision. 50/100/50 with 25/50 (I think?) uninsured motorist with stacked coverage. Me and my wife are named, both ~30. Granted, I did Snapshot with Progressive but I dont think that is saving me more than 15% per car. I also save about $100 or so by paying the 6 month premium in full.
 
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Holy crap!!!! Is insurance in CO higher than other states? Im paying about $630 for 6 months, two vehicles (13 CX5 and 17 Odyssey) with $250 comprehensive and $500 collision. 50/100/50 with 25/50 (I think?) uninsured motorist with stacked coverage. Me and my wife are named, both ~30. Granted, I did Snapshot with Progressive but I dont think that is saving me more than 15% per car. I also save about $100 or so by paying the 6 month premium in full.
It's my zip code and I am in the worst demographic for rates.

And Colorado got hit with hail storms past couple of years that resulted in billions in insurance payouts, so there's that to. Has increased since those storms.
 
Wow! I live in "expensive" SF Bay Area and my insurance went down when I bought my 2019 Sig. Coverage is $75/month ($900 per year) and more than $250 cheaper per year than the policy for my previous vehicle (2018 Honda CR-V Touring).

My Geico coverage includes $100 comprehensive and $500 collision deductibles. 100/300/100 with 100/300 (Uninsured Motorist & Underinsured Motorist), and rental reimbursement ($50/Day, $1,500 max). I do get CA good driver and low mileage discounts.

One of the perks of being in my 50s, I guess!
 
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Wow! I live in "expensive" SF Bay Area and my insurance went down when I bought my 2019 Sig. Coverage is $75/month ($900 per year) and more than $250 cheaper per year than the policy for my previous vehicle (2018 Honda CR-V Touring).

My Geico coverage includes $100 comprehensive and $500 collision deductibles. 100/300/100 with 100/300 (Uninsured Motorist & Underinsured Motorist), and rental reimbursement ($50/Day, $1,500 max). I do get CA good driver and low mileage discounts.

One of the perks of being in my 50s, I guess!
Damn. Mines $2200/year.
 

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