Hypertech Max Energy Sport CAI Update Now Available!

[boosted1]

Can you do us a little favor? Buy or borrow a cheap stopwatch, find a level stretch of highway and do a few WOT runs from 60-100 mph and tell us what numbers you are getting and what ambient temp was when making the runs.

That will tell me a huge amount more than "pulls" this way or that way. Objective data on actual acceleration is what I'm looking for. If you can't track the car, then please tell us what the stopwatch is saying. That's very effective and highly repeatable way to tell is your mods are actually making a difference.

And with all respect to the dyno's use in tuning, absolute numbers don't tell me diddley squat, because there is too much variation from brand to brand, machine to machine and operator to operator.

But time, speed and distance are always exact. Assuming your speedo is accurate and a $30 stopwatch can be accurate to at least a tenth of a second, you can get some very, very, reliable data that way. Nothing to post up for bragging rights, but very useful for tuning.

And while the increase in power in first and second gear might be a big benefit for autocross where speeds are much lower and time can be improved by not having to shift as frequently, for me, it just would mean even less traction because I'm already smoking the tires with WOT in first, all the way through second and part of third while trying the feather the engine and chirping them in fourth with stock tune and my mods.

Stopwatch or track numbers, please? Thanks.

You have at least 3 evaluations of the HyperTech flash and all are positive. If you require detailed test data, just email Chris at HyperTech.

 

[Jchouin1]

^^^Man, every time I see a post with "I spin in 3rd" with an intake and exhaust, my skin starts to crawl. @24 psi I had no wheelspin issues in 3rd. Now rods, that's a different story...

 

[boosted1]

^^^Man, every time I see a post with "I spin in 3rd" with an intake and exhaust, my skin starts to crawl. @24 psi I had no wheelspin issues in 3rd. Now rods, that's a different story...

Definitely something to bear in mind.

 

[meicalnissyen]

OK you have to be kidding me right. I'm tying my best to give helpful info, But to go out and buy a stop watch, Hit the highway at like 10-11pm to make some 60-100 runs an time it is a bit much no?? I'm not a test car for Hypertech, Yes I did buy it, Yes I am helping others with desicion on the flash,but that's my limit. If you want that much info then buy it and do it yourself, An not trying to be rude.. Thanx

cellphone has a stopwatch in it....

But you have a point

 

[MSMS3]

50-75 in 2.9 sec in third gear...GPS and Racechrono
MS3 with Hypertech tune, sri and CS racepipe...standard car takes 4.2...

Will test the higher speeds later on...

Not sure how much faster my car really is now after the tune, it revs longer and looses traction easier, but if it is any faster, I don't know...The car is different, more eager and pushing harder, but not really that much faster...

The biggest performance improvement on my car was changing the air filter, it made the car 1 sec faster 50-75 mph...

Nice numbers, Peak65. Objective data is always better than seat of the pants feeling. Testing for only a 25 mph differential makes it hard to measure improvements accurately, though. It is, indeed, much better that stock, which according to published data would be about 3.7 seconds (Road and Track), rather than 4.2 you suggested. But you do have a serious power gain. It would have been helpful had you indicated how much your intake and rp dropped your times before the tune, so we could see what the tune added.

Well, I asked my question of anm6 for numbers so some real world comparisons could be made. It would appear that I'm already about two tenths quicker, 50-75 on stock tune with just an intake and dp/rp. And that was with a shift into fourth at 72-73 mph. If I'd ridden it out past my chosen shift point (5,500-5,700 rpm), I'd have been a tenth quicker. I set the shift point light at 6K, but did not want to see the light flash except during the flat shift. My stopwatch and G-Tech Pro RR accelerometer are within a tenth. Chart attached. Ambient temp was 65 degrees. Unless the Hypertech tune adds more power once the car is under full load in the higher gears, the two tenths differential is going to grow as the run continues to higher speeds.

This chart was last spring, a year ago today. It's warmed up enough now that I laid down another run this a.m. that looks pretty similar, (quarter mile in the 13.4's again) but I haven't downloaded it yet to compare. The graph generating software can overlay the charts on top of each other for comparison.

When modding this car the owner does need to know what the car is actually doing in time, speed and distance measurements to know where you are headed with the mods.

Longer runs, like 60-100 or 60-110 or higher tell the story even more accurately. Or try a 40-120 roll and tell us what you get on the stop watch or accelerometer. Testing over that span is an excellent test.

And no, I'm not kidding, anm6, it's very realistic to invest in some type of time, speed, distance calculator, even a simple cheap stopwatch if you are going to spend many hundreds of bucks on mods and not know where those mods are taking you in terms of real performance.

Drag strip timer is even better, but it's inconvenient and you can usually only get in maybe three runs in an evening.

It looks like your tune is getting you some significant power gain. You may do even better "up top" when you get well into fourth and fifth gears at WOT. Add a downpipe, if the tune will allow safe AFR's, and it will just come alive.

I would just modestly suggest that while the tune is building power, your improvement in acceleration may be mostly due to your intake and exhaust mods. The tune probably helped but maybe not as much as some might think.

 

[Jchouin1]

If you apply full throttle in third in a round-about you get wheelspin. Straight forward on a dragstrip you don't...

haha or if you bang gears like you have a sparkling new trans sitting at home ready to be installed! From a roll, in a straight line, it takes substantially more power than basic bolt-ons will provide to break loose in 3rd on dry pavement. I believe Jeff G when he said his car could acomplish this, but then again he did it with a 3076r and 380whp.

 

[MSMS3]

Go to YouTube and search for my user name "msms3" without the quotes.

Oh, well, here it is:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRY2wCDcfWA

Tell me what you see happening on the upper end of second gear and into third gear. I had left the DSC turned on and she still broke loose when I punched it in second and through the power or flat shift well into third.

I don't think I was on a poor traction surface, as the run clocks at 12.5 seconds 40-120 mph. Very modest mods listed in sig.

I thought maybe my tires were getting shot, but I just put new ones on and have the same problem, although new tires (in sig below) are A/S and probably not quite as sticky.

 

[anm6]

? For guys other than me with, I was seeing 20 PSI drove the car today and saw nothing but 15 PSI. It was colder today than Sunday when I made the runs, I also was seeing 20 PSI on Monday?? Do you guys think the ECU adapted and put the boost back to stock? I'm at a loss..

 

[MrMoose]

? For guys other than me with, I was seeing 20 PSI drove the car today and saw nothing but 15 PSI. It was colder today than Sunday when I made the runs, I also was seeing 20 PSI on Monday?? Do you guys think the ECU adapted and put the boost back to stock? I'm at a loss..

Is this all in the same gear? My boost varies on what gear I'm in bigtime. I love it so far though.

 

[anm6]

Yea the 20 PSI was in all gears at least till 4th, Where I was doing my runs. The 20 PSI was definitly in 1-4. can't remember if I was seeing in 5-6th on the highway( Not on the highway to much). But I think I saw it up there too. An there was no tapering off stayed there till 6-6200k RPMS.

 

[MrMoose]

Damn, I hope this doesn't happen to me. I would just turn your car back to stock then install it again, update it first though...I'm pretty sure when you do that, or at least check for an update, your calibration is uploaded and Hypertech can see what's going wrong if anything.

 

[anm6]

Was thinking the same thing, I sent Chris a PM already to see what he says. I will reinstall it later today (530pm) when I get out of work. I hope there is an update or just something weird happend.

 

[Hypnotized]

keep us posted with what you find out.

 

[anm6]

I definitly will, I reall hope this was just a glitch with the flash. I can remember others with the flash had pretty close to 20 PSI also.

 

[spec2k5]

I thought boost was load based? If it was colder and you were seeing less boost, it is because you dont need as much boost cause the air is more dense. Does the car feel slower?

 

[boosted1]

The most boost that I saw was 17 psi and that was near redline. 20 psi seems to be too much boost to be having in every gear.

 

[anm6]

I thought boost was load based? If it was colder and you were seeing less boost, it is because you dont need as much boost cause the air is more dense. Does the car feel slower?

Yes car feels as if it doent pull as hard.. Colder air you would have a boost spike not alot tho. Temps on Sunday where in the 60's and yesterday was in the 40's.

 

[anm6]

The most boost that I saw was 17 psi and that was near redline. 20 psi seems to be too much boost to be having in every gear.

Yea 20 was alot I thought also till I saw logs of 19-20 PSI. But I'm not even hittting 17,BANG right to 15??

 

[MSMS3]

Yea 20 was alot I thought also till I saw logs of 19-20 PSI. But I'm not even hittting 17,BANG right to 15??

With your catless dp/rp (same as mine) you should be seeing 17-18 psi even on stock tune with occasional very quick spikes (only at initial WOT) to 20-21 psi with immediate settle to target, which would, again be about 17 even on stock tune if you have a catless dp. The increased exhaust flow raises boost that much.

And yes, some changes in atmospheric conditions including ambient air and humidity changes will cause the ECU to make adjustments that might not allow you to develop full boost potential.

As to what Hypertech tune is doing in your situation, I can't say. But I'd not feel comfortable with the car holding boost at levels above 18 psi, and certainly not 20 psi at rpm's above 5,500 rpm. In cold weather are your seeing any fuel/load cut on that tune? If Hypertech kept the safety features in place, you should get slapped hard with load cut when you cross 17.5 psi in cold weather.

Maybe the ECU had to "relearn" from the new mapping and its effect on your mods? But 20 psi sustained is a dangerous way to learn, IMHO.

 

[anm6]

Agree with eveything in your post, Other than with the catless DP I still was only seeing 15PSI, Maybe 15 1/2. But nothing over that. The first few days with the hypertech I was seeing 20PSI and AF was a safe 10.8-10.5 WOT( AEM WIDEBAND) The stock AF's where at 11.3. So I was not lean YET?? I know that may change when it's like 20 degress out but as for as in the 60's I was fine.. But now to go back to 15 PSI( Stock) after 4 days is puzzling. I also agree with maybe the ECU learned the new maps but why would it go back to stock boost unless it just took over the flash??