Wagonbacker9
Member
- :
- 2004 'Hoe
you're asking the wrong guy... MSP = no side airbags. I believe there is a plug under the seat that needs to be disconnected.. but I'd say talk to someone more knowledgable than I on the topic before attempting.
How To: Quiet down cabin noise and improve sound for cheap
- Thread starter Matt V
- Start date
you're asking the wrong guy... MSP = no side airbags. I believe there is a plug under the seat that needs to be disconnected.. but I'd say talk to someone more knowledgable than I on the topic before attempting.
drgnzadiel101
Member
- :
- 2002 mazda protege5
Ive been thinking about selling the protege to get a vintage bug to volksrod out, so this may or may not help you guys. just watch the tip
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7eIF4cgFx4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7eIF4cgFx4
I've been thinking of doing the floor and roof with this stuff, maybe start with the doors and the trunk area, but doing the floor would be on the list...bought "quieter" tires, have stock exhaust (for now) and nothing else done, so this should make it alot quieter.
Matt, are you on the DFW site?
Matt, are you on the DFW site?
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- 2002 22A P5 and 2007 TR MS3
Just disconnect the battery, and there are a couple plugs under the seat to disconnect.
I did mine without incident. I don't think there is a way to make them explode.
BTW, this project is a beast. Removing everything, installing Ensolite foam, etc...it is a pain, and the results are ok. I spent about 24 hours of labor doing mine, and was not blown away by the results.
Take your time and put LOTS of foam to absorb the sound!!! The doors and the hatch area are the #! place where road noise seems to enter, not so much the floor and roof.
Rockin03mp5
Member
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- '13 Mazda3 / '13 Edge / Your Mom
yeah, the sound results arent luxury quiet or anything, but all my rattles are now gone, and the feels harder.
I'm pretty sure that would work too, sounds like Dynamat. The only bad thing about that stuff is that it might be permanent, and if it didn't work like this stuff that could be bad news.
Also, I just took the time to apply the foam to the back side of the drivers side door panel plastic, and it makes a huge difference. The plastic no longer rattles when hard bass hits, I'm gonna have to get one more roll to do the rest of my doors and rear wheel wells.
I was going to put some on the brown areas but it wasn't sticking to it at all, however it stuck surprisingly well to the plastic areas.
Did you reinstall the factory plastic sheet between the door and door panel?
Rockin03mp5
Member
- :
- '13 Mazda3 / '13 Edge / Your Mom
i did... rain guard yo!
that inside part of the door i lined in ensolite. but your stuff is more like sticky ensolite anyways.
that sticky black stuff sucks though.
that inside part of the door i lined in ensolite. but your stuff is more like sticky ensolite anyways.
that sticky black stuff sucks though.
Yeah, as long as you're careful when pulling off the plastic sheeting, you should just be able to press it back onto the black stuff.
I wonder if there are any really adverse effects (e.g., mold, smells, etc) to leaving off the plastic sheeting.
I think the plastic sheeting just protects the inside of the door panel from water damage in the event the seals around the window fail
HelionTBone
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Proteg5
I was able to pull back just a small portion the outside bottom corner a few inches (where the black plastic rectangle is). Between that opening and the speaker hole I was able to coat the entire inside of the door without incident (if you sit on the ground). I then used a 1" socket to roll the plastic back into place on the black gooey stuff and it's good as new.
Of course, I'm 6'3" and have longer arms so that could be an unfair advantage, but I still recommend trying it. I just didn't want to remove the plastic sheeting because I've heard people say that a lot of water passes through the doors. Even in doing this project I removed a lot of wet debris from the inside of the door (Oregon yo).
I only did my doors but I'm pleased with the results. I won't make any absolutes about whether its better or not because I don't care to get jumped on, but I will say that I am pleased. It only took me about an hour per door and that included speaker installation. I spent a little extra to get 10" dynamat squares and put them directly behind the speaker holes. The rest I filled in with FrostKing. I also coated the area where you mount the speakers with the FrostKing stuff. Also I applied it to the plastic part of the interior panel like Matt V did.
I took pictures and will post them when I get a chance.
I'm not going to do my floor or my ceiling, but I am seriously considering doing my back wheel wells and spare tire area. If anyone has instructions on how to do this without tearing too much apart please send it along.
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I looked at that stuff(quick roof)at home depot and its pretty darn thin, but apparently it works on those VW Bugs. Wonder if it works as good or better than the frost king stuff. You do however, get 30 sq ft less per roll than the frost king stuff, but at a $2 per roll lower price
Rockin03mp5
Member
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- '13 Mazda3 / '13 Edge / Your Mom
bump what?
bump for opinions on the quick roof stuff
Wagonbacker9
Member
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- 2004 'Hoe
buy purpose built sound deadening.... its not like theres some HUGE savings going with this duct insulation crap... I don't get it.
Rockin03mp5
Member
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- '13 Mazda3 / '13 Edge / Your Mom
what ^ said.
and realize, there is no all in one solution. it takes a few different kinds of things to really quiet things down.
that stuff probably works on the bugs, since they have absolutely nothing for soundproofing on them. (im guessing here)
and realize, there is no all in one solution. it takes a few different kinds of things to really quiet things down.
that stuff probably works on the bugs, since they have absolutely nothing for soundproofing on them. (im guessing here)
