How To: Kill your turkeys

On thing I forgot to mention on my previous post is that my BOV is on my turbo to Intercooler pipe. It is nowhere near the Throttle Body. Here is the pic once more.

My Picture

Will I still be able to do this mod? I'm not going to get a hole machined from a shop then find out later that it won't work because of the positioning of my bov. Thanks :)
 
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505zoom ?

How did you connect the bpv to the injen Need to know exact places to run all the lines for bpv Thanks for the info Thanks alot Tony any new pics with new hoses
 
instylz said:
On thing I forgot to mention on my previous post is that my BOV is on my turbo to Intercooler pipe. It is nowhere near the Throttle Body. Here is the pic once more.

My Picture

Will I still be able to do this mod? I'm not going to get a hole machined from a shop then find out later that it won't work because of the positioning of my bov. Thanks :)

Where do you plan on putting the other valve???

I think that it would work best to have one on the turbo--->IC pipe, and one on the IC--->TB pipe. Discreetspeed and I have them both located on the IC--->TB pipe, so I'm not positive that your setup would kill it. I think so, but not sure.

Sorry about the slow response, I almost forgot about this thread:)
 
Re: 505zoom ?

mazdaspeed75 said:
How did you connect the bpv to the injen Need to know exact places to run all the lines for bpv Thanks for the info Thanks alot Tony any new pics with new hoses

With the iON FMIC hardpipes, the stock BPV is connected to a 90 degree elbow, which is screwed into the IC--->TB pipe, about 18" from the IC outlet.
The other side is connected to the return on the injen via heater hose that you can get at napa. Imagine that the clear tubing in the pics is black and that's what it looks like now;).
 
killing the turkey

This is my first post on this forum, but i've been reading this for a sometime now. The question I have about the turkey is what is the reason for 2 valves?
To me it seems that the gobble is coming from all that air trying to squeeze through the skinny and long pipe that injen intake has. Because it can't get through it tryes to go back the other way and spin the turbo, bounces back and does the same thing. Am I dead wrong on this? In the next week I will be installing the spool intercooler kit so this is what I will try to do.

1. I have a Greddy type S BOV, I will attach that to the IC>TB pipe.

2. Block or cut-off and close the hole on the intake that injen has provided us for the BPV.

3. Attach a 1" nipple to the intake that is alligned with the bov.

4. connect it with a 1" hose.

Also maybe run a designated vaccum line for it. I don't see why this wouldn't work? Anyone has tried this and know that it won't work?
Thanks for any info. And that's a great how-to.
 
I'm confused. If your going to cover up the hole on the intake how are you attaching a nipple to it? I'm sorry for being a noob. Also if you want to completely cover it up nicely visit Advance Auto Parts. They have plugs there specifically to cover up intakes that have a resirc fitting. Cheap as hell and looks nice. :)
 
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Thanks, I'll check on the Advanced Auto Parts tomorrow.
I want to add another nipple to the intake pipe that is larger in diameter and is not skinny and long like injens. I just want a nipple that's about 1" in diameter and 1" long and I'll fit a hose over it and connect to the BOV on the other side.
Does that make sense? I'll try to take pictures when I do it.
 
Re: killing the turkey

ViksMSP said:
This is my first post on this forum, but i've been reading this for a sometime now. The question I have about the turkey is what is the reason for 2 valves?
To me it seems that the gobble is coming from all that air trying to squeeze through the skinny and long pipe that injen intake has. Because it can't get through it tryes to go back the other way and spin the turbo, bounces back and does the same thing. Am I dead wrong on this? In the next week I will be installing the spool intercooler kit so this is what I will try to do.

1. I have a Greddy type S BOV, I will attach that to the IC>TB pipe.

2. Block or cut-off and close the hole on the intake that injen has provided us for the BPV.

3. Attach a 1" nipple to the intake that is alligned with the bov.

4. connect it with a 1" hose.

Also maybe run a designated vaccum line for it. I don't see why this wouldn't work? Anyone has tried this and know that it won't work?
Thanks for any info. And that's a great how-to.

That might work, but you could just as easily run your type-s open vent, and leave the stock valve in place. I think the key is to have the extra opening that the dual valve setup provides. When I ran my HKS open vent by itself, with a dedicated vacuum source, it still had the problem. So based on that, I can't see how running any sort of return to the intake would be less restrictive than that;).

Discreetspeed tried about as many things as I did, but with different valves. He was using the type-s, and he said that the best way to do it for him was the way that I did it.

If your stock valve is already in place and recirculating, I strongly reccomend doing it like I did. You won't have any surge or stalling, and it will sound great.

Thanks for the props:).
 
Now that you mention that, it makes sense. If you vented it and it still gobbled then my setup would not work. It just doesn't make any sense why it does it.. In theory it should work perfectly.
Anyways, I'll try your setup first. Where do you get a designated vacuum source, I'm already tapped in the one that is on the manifold for my EBC.
And do you know, how many times I can tap into a vacuum line before the vacuum pressure starts to decrease??

Sorry for all these questions, but I got one more.

My spool pipes already have a fitting for my type S, so do I just need to make a nipple for my stock valve?
Thanks again for your help.
 
ViksMSP said:
Now that you mention that, it makes sense. If you vented it and it still gobbled then my setup would not work. It just doesn't make any sense why it does it.. In theory it should work perfectly.

Yeah, I thought that it would work to just have a less restrictive return on there, so I just ran it open vent because that would give me an idea of how it would react to no restriction at all. It still had the sound, and it would stall very easily.

Originally posted by ViksMSP
Anyways, I'll try your setup first. Where do you get a designated vacuum source, I'm already tapped in the one that is on the manifold for my EBC.

I have the stock BPV on the wastegate line similar to the stock setup. I would hook the type-s to the short line that most people here have their boost gauge hooked up to. I think there is a pic of it in this thread.

Originally posted by ViksMSP
And do you know, how many times I can tap into a vacuum line before the vacuum pressure starts to decrease??

Not sure about how many you can put on one line before you notice a decrease in performance, but you might just consider trying a couple of different ways to see what is the best for you.

Originally posted by ViksMSP
Sorry for all these questions, but I got one more.

My spool pipes already have a fitting for my type S, so do I just need to make a nipple for my stock valve?

If your pipes are setup for the type-s, then yes, to run it like this you would have to weld a small nipple to the pipe to run the stock BPV.

Originally posted by ViksMSP
Thanks again for your help.

Anytime man, if you have any more questions, feel free to PM me or I'm richman6420 on AIM.
 
Just get an HKS Super AFR, it has idle compensation for MAF cars that want to run an open-vented BOV and adjusts a/f mixture accordingly. Plus, it tunes fuel and only costs 220 bucks.
 
^ wow, i've been reading up on HKS Super AFR, and it seems like it would work...

"Electronic Idle Stabilizer Function (EIDS)
This automatic function prevents engine stalling or stumbling in some airflow meter vehicles which use blow-off valves discharged to the atmosphere when throttle is released"

but then it would only cure the stalling.......dont u people get surge even with the hard pipes and a BOV? or did i missread something?
 
Dr.Sound said:
.......dont u people get surge even with the hard pipes and a BOV? or did i missread something?

Yeah, the only users I have heard of that have no turkey with just one valve is JDM Sam and LiLiTaLy, but I think that this is due to the fact that they are using the stock intake. They haven't dealt with the super turkey that comes with the injen:D.
 
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505zoom,
So I get my FMIC installed and my Greddy Type S, ran it open vent and got no turkey but a good sounding PTSSSSSSSSSSSSS
I ended up slicing up the injen, I personally think that injen is a piece of junk, I don't like the way it was designed. I had to install the first plastic intake pipe that goes to the MAF and from there I ran one elbow from the injen, so it's kind of a Short Ram-air. But i did hear the compressor surge when I was messing with the bov setup. When I tightened too much it would make that noise when not boosting high <2psi and anything over would ptssss. But after adjusting it it runs fine.
I'm working on recirculating pipe, later time.
What do you think of this?
 
How is the stalling??? I know that with my setup, I first started with the adjustment screw at it's loosest setting. Discreet also messed with just tuning his type-s, and had no luck. I really don't know what is causing this anymore. Some people run just an open vent valve on hardpipes and fix the surging. I know that my dual valve setup cures the surge while eliminating the stalling normally associated with running an open-vent BOV with a maf equiped car.

I'm glad it's all working good for you.
 
*rubs paddles together* CLEAR!

Sorry to revive a dead thread, but...

Has anybody talked to Cork Sport about their hardpipes? I was checking out their site and saw this:

"The Cork Sport 'Power Series' Intercooler Pipe kit replaces the plastic/ribbed piping with mandrel bent aluminum pipping (Not welded together mandrel bent pieces as seen on other kits). The kit comes with all the pipes needed, silicone adapters, clamps, hardware, everything needed for installation.Update: The IC Pipe kit will include a Turbo XS Type S Blow Off Valve. This secondary BOV eliminates the annoying "turkey sound" heard on the Mazdaspeed Protege with an aftermarket intake system."

Sounds like they took the work done on this forum and ran with it. They say secondary, so it would seem they are keeping the stock BPV in place and running an additional BOV close to the TB. I'd like to see some pics of this setup, and get a price as well. Are there currently any hardpipe manufacturers that allow you to keep the stock BPV setup in the same location?
 
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