How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix

I really it's an issue where once you clean it with the really harsh cleaning chemicals it needs to be cleaned ALL the time. I think I'll just start cleaning it every time I change my oil, and if I get sick of it I'll just buy the revised part and call it a day.
 
SoonP5ismine said:
did u gap the plugs correctly? i cant remember what the gap supposed to be but the plugs are not usually gapped from the store. i got platinums in my car last summer and i had to gap them.
I checked the gap against the ones I pulled out and they were pretty close to the same.
 
Don't check against old gap, the electrodes wear down and it won't be accurate. Correct gap for our plugs is anywhere from .040 - .043 (1.0-1.1mm)
 
They said .44 on the package...and that checked out. The ones I took out were slightly more but worn out so I assumed they gave me the right ones.
 
Kansei said:
Iridium plugs (which he bought) come pre-gapped at 1.1 for our cars and always say "DO NOT GAP" on them.

They say don't regap them because they are fragile on the two pieces (top and bottom electrode) but the MSP gap is quite diff then they come from the maker. You MUST regap them and do it carefully. Don't touch the electrode at all with the tool.

367 b (mp3yellow
 
Pmpkinhead said:
They say don't regap them because they are fragile on the two pieces (top and bottom electrode) but the MSP gap is quite diff then they come from the maker. You MUST regap them and do it carefully. Don't touch the electrode at all with the tool.

367 b (mp3yellow

He has a Protege5 so no worries there.. they're properly gapped.

Plus, I think the "stock" recommended gap for the MSP is still 1.1mm (shrug)
 
chuyler1 said:
Yeah...but gas mileage has been down lately. I used to get 29-31 and the last few times I checked it was 26-28. I'll wait until the NEPOC guys can guide me through it.

ya bruce is real good at this...just ask his knuckles!!
 
Kansei said:
He has a Protege5 so no worries there.. they're properly gapped.

Plus, I think the "stock" recommended gap for the MSP is still 1.1mm (shrug)

Incorrect, The MSP is different. Also, I thought he was running a turbo which could put at the MSP specs.
 
Need Help with removing intake pipe...

Hello fellow members,

I would like to do an EGR valve cleaning for my protege ES, but I am in need of some insight as how to remove the intake pipe to get to the EGR valve? Is there a write-up somewhere on how to remove the intake pipe? Can I remove the EGR valve without removing the intake pipe? If intake pipe must be removed, could someone pls give me some directions on removal? Thank you for everyones time and info.
 
if you have the 3rd gen pro then intake pipe is held in by 2 adjustable clamps and u just loosen them ebough that the pipe comes off on both ends. i dont actually take off the pipe completely just the 2 big clamps. the small oil tube i leave connected and just move the whole intake pipe to the side and place it on top of the valve cover. i do however recommane taking the battery out to do the egr valve as it will give you more room to stick your arm in there. BTW in the future you should list your car year when asking questions to allow more exact replies.
Protege__Owner said:
Hello fellow members,

I would like to do an EGR valve cleaning for my protege ES, but I am in need of some insight as how to remove the intake pipe to get to the EGR valve? Is there a write-up somewhere on how to remove the intake pipe? Can I remove the EGR valve without removing the intake pipe? If intake pipe must be removed, could someone pls give me some directions on removal? Thank you for everyones time and info.
 
I just cleaned mine, def better, it stalled 3 times last week and I got a check engine light, so I bought a obd II code reader, it confirmed what I thought which was the egr restricted flow code.I Since then cleared the code, it still drops down every now and then down to 200 rpms ? but it used to shake the whole car and it would go down to 0 rpm and back up.I guess the ecu is readjusting.
 
It can't be good, but it hasn't done it all day today and it stopped vibrating as soon as I ran the car good yesterday!
 
jimmybrite said:
I just cleaned mine, def better, it stalled 3 times last week and I got a check engine light, so I bought a obd II code reader, it confirmed what I thought which was the egr restricted flow code.I Since then cleared the code, it still drops down every now and then down to 200 rpms ? but it used to shake the whole car and it would go down to 0 rpm and back up.I guess the ecu is readjusting.

I'm in the same boat as you. Its better but not really perfect. It'll drop to 300 every now and then. Is it possible that it wasn't cleaned enough? I've cleaned the IAC as well.
 
protegeric said:
try upping the idle to an even 1000.
wtf

oh and it seems to be all fixed now, when I have free time i'll check the idle Solenoid.I would have done it at the same time as my egr, but I couldn't find the proper torx bit
 
kc3635 said:
I'm in the same boat as you. Its better but not really perfect. It'll drop to 300 every now and then. Is it possible that it wasn't cleaned enough? I've cleaned the IAC as well.

Just so you know, the first tick mark on the tachometer is 500rpms.

My car idles around 690rpms when fully warmed up (as reported by my OBDII port)
 
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