How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix

Well, I replaced my intake mainfold gasket today. I reset the ECU and cranked the car up. My problem got worse. Before the car would stumble at idle for 10-15 seconds and then cut off. Now it just immediately cuts off. It won't idle at all. I'm a little pissed at it right now so I'm going to head to work and hopefully figure it out tomorrow. I tried spraying a little carb cleaner around the manifold to check for leaks, but I didn't find anything. I'm at a loss right now. I'll probably just get another gasket from the dealer and try it again.
 
Thank you - great help on idle

After rebuilding/replacing my head, the engine sounded great but the idle was rough, and very slow when the engine warmed up. I removed and cleaned the EGR valve as suggested and the idle is much much better.

The removal wasn't too bad. I had a small 1/4" drive socket set that worked perfectly. Until I got this set out I could see how this could be awkward and difficult.

Upon removal, the EGR was somewhat fouled, but it operated, so I was skeptical that this would help. I cleaned it and oiled it as recommended, and it did the trick!!

Thanks for the info!
 
OK..I found my prblem today. I actually have several large cracks in the intake runners on the manifold near the mounting flange.
 
xelderx said:
OK..I found my prblem today. I actually have several large cracks in the intake runners on the manifold near the mounting flange.

wow, pics??
 
I got this PM, so I thought I'd just add this for people who don't know,
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i know you don't know me but i was reading your how to, but you never explained how to reset the egr.
thanks

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All you have to do is disconnect the battery for about five minutes. Some people say to hit the brake pedal a couple of times while the battery is disconnected to discharge the capacitors on the circuit board of the PCM, but just having the door open with the dome light switched on is enough to do that. It may take a few miles for the PCM to adjust itself after clearing the long term fuel trim memory. When you reconnect the battery, the car may not start, just lock and unlock the doors with the key fob and it will reset the alarm. Start the car and let it idle until warm before driving it. Some people say it takes 150 miles before the computer relearns, but I have never noticed any specific point. Let me know if you have any other questions,

Britt
 
my stock exhaust actually seems to limit this problem(egr sticking). i just gave it a thought.

Is this possible?

for you p5ers my MS axleback is for sale. it will also fit the sedan a bit shorter. i will also trade for a set of coil springs.(ughdance)
 
bazooka joe said:
wow, pics??

I'll get some when I can. It cracked because I didn't have the brace on the back of the manifold that supports it from the block. The manifold is pretty heavy to just be supported by the mounting flange. Along with the larger ports reducing the amount of aluminum around the flange and my AWR motormounts it was only a matter of time before it cracked. I will say that it did hold up for over a year the way it was though. Not too shabby considering the conditions.
 
see I knew that brace was there for a reason.. I take back all consideration I've put into removing it in the past :)
 
bump

my stock exhaust actually seems to limit this problem(egr sticking). i just gave it a thought.

Is this possible?

for you p5ers my MS axleback is for sale. it will also fit the sedan a bit shorter. i will also trade for a set of coil springs
 
heyyyy

yea, I'm having idle problems as well with my MSP with 30k miles. The thing is that my engine sometimes shuts off after accelerating hard through first and second and letting go of the gas abruptly. the RPMs will fall and keep falling till the engine stops leaving me without power steering, destined for a crash. It only happens while rolling though, and happens alot when i gas hard and abruptly let go. sometimes, ill feather the gas to keep it from stalling but, not knowing how to drive stick well, its gettin annoying. I was wondering what the chances are that this is an EGR problem because I don't want to jeprodize anything. If anything, Ill take it to the mazda dealer but I was hoping to see if I could do this quick fix myself. I'm not very experienced with fixing cars but know my tools and all. thanks.
 
I just got finished cleaning my EGR. It was quite an adventure. Here are a few pics:

Here it is, This grey clip is a b**** to get off:
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Yes that is my leg inside the engine bay. I found out it was easier to get to the EGR valve:
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So I couldn't get the grey clip off so I decided to take the two bolts out first and I actually broke a socket! that was a first.
685628ac3113.jpg

So when I got the bolts out and removed the EGR valve it was alot easier to get it off.

Here is mine when I took it off. This is after 68,000 miles:
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Here is after I cleaned it with some brakleen, scrubed it with a wire brush, and cleaned it more with some Q-tips.
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I really hope it works for u! I cleaned mine like crazy with wire brush and soaked it in break parts cleaner overnight and the problem came back in about 1200 miles. i posted in this thread somewhere much much earlier about how i bought a new one cheap and my egr is still working fine with about 9000 miles on it so far. good luck!
mazdaspeed777 said:
I just got finished cleaning my EGR. It was quite an adventure. Here are a few pics:
 
My car purrs at idle but would it be the EGR valve that causes the lurching when your driving slow between 1 and 2nd? And only when it starts does it rev up quickly and then quickly settles down but at idle the needle does not fluctuate at all, very smooth, 67K. Definitely a great post.
 
It could be it. when my car had the egr problem it idled sortof low and when i tried to accelerate in neutral i couldnt level out the rpm it jumped up quick and couldnt make it go at 1000 rpm cuz it went much higher or lower. you should check what codes your ecu is throwing. mine had two codes. one was multiple cylinder misfire and the second was inssufficient egr gas flow or gass pressure or something like that. good luck!
Shasta said:
My car purrs at idle but would it be the EGR valve that causes the lurching when your driving slow between 1 and 2nd? And only when it starts does it rev up quickly and then quickly settles down but at idle the needle does not fluctuate at all, very smooth, 67K. Definitely a great post.
 
Successful cleaning for long-term?

So, I'm curious, for those who have attempted to CLEAN their EGR valve, how successful has it been long-term? How many Km's/miles have you gone on it?

I removed mine and the plunger was indeed stuck, so I cleaned it with carb cleaner until the plunger moved freely, but after only 500 km's, it was sticking again (causing rough idle). I did NOT lube it with 3en1 or anything - so I just removed it and cleaned it again and this time lubed it well with 3en1... we'll see what happens.

Anyhow, back to my initial question, has anyone had long term success with a cleaning?

Lance
 
no long term for me. 1200 miles after my cleaning it ran like s*** again.

sting88 said:
So, I'm curious, for those who have attempted to CLEAN their EGR valve, how successful has it been long-term? How many Km's/miles have you gone on it?

I removed mine and the plunger was indeed stuck, so I cleaned it with carb cleaner until the plunger moved freely, but after only 500 km's, it was sticking again (causing rough idle). I did NOT lube it with 3en1 or anything - so I just removed it and cleaned it again and this time lubed it well with 3en1... we'll see what happens.

Anyhow, back to my initial question, has anyone had long term success with a cleaning?

Lance
 
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