How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix

[thatdude]

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[thorracing271]

Im getting rpm jumps from 1200 to around 500 with violent shaking. Im going to take it off tomorrow and go to town with a big can on carb spray. Im kind of afraid, my car is just creeping up on 100,000 and I guarantee this thing has never been looked at.
So is everyone using motor oil to re lube?

 

[TheMAN]

I removed and am cleaning my EGR valve now... my car was stalling, 125,000 kms, never had this cleaned before. It seems to have clogged at the same time that my alternator died, but anyway...

I had a hell of a time getting it off (2003 protege5). My spring does not look like the loose one pictured at the start of this thread. Mine is tightly coiled, and I can't get it to move at all. Is that normal? I'll attach a pic. Is it jammed in the compressed state, and is that why my car will not idle (at idle my tach bounces like a kid on a trampoline, low, then blips up, until it stalls).

Just wondering if I should do anything before I go to the trouble of reinstalling everything. Do I need a new one???

And what is supposed to get cleaned, the walls of the holes, or is it the parts at the bottom of the openings? I can't really get at the bottom, I just scraped the sides a bit, and let it soak in Carb cleaner (Gunk's Carb Medic) for a couple of hours. Is that adequate product & time?

Thanks for the help, i'LL probably try to do the IAC when I get the tool, too.

the motor/spring rusted, that's why its stuck open... don't any of you read the canadian EGR thread I posted? cleaning this thing is a big waste of time and won't fix the problem forever... it will just come back

with all the trouble taking it off, wasting time cleaning it, wasting time putting it back on, you're better off buying a new one and never have to worry about it again... and if you're in canada, you might be able to get yours fixed under a special warranty also

 

[imola.zhp]

^ thats about where I'm at, again.

I think I've cleaned it 3 times now...

 

[thorracing271]

attempting to get this S.O.B. off right now but im failing badly. I cant see how you guys got a wrench or rachet to fit in there and be able to break the 2 12mm bolts loose

any tips please?

 

[thorracing271]

some helllllp MEEE! hahaha

 

[thorracing271]

hours later, I finally got the thing removed using a craftsman micro ratchet. Now off to soak in some carb cleaner

 

[mckernan]

well let us know!
i have the part number if you need a new one

 

[thorracing271]

the spring and valve seem to be in good shape. No rust on either component, so all I need to do is clean out all that carbon build up.

 

[mckernan]

yeah, when i cleaned mine there wasn't actually that much build-up.

it also didn't fix the problem, appearently the valve was just defective in some way.

 

[TheMAN]

yes, it's called rust
you could got a NEW and much better one for FREE under warranty at your canadian dealership instead of wasting time messing with it

if you're american, you're SOL... just buy a new one and get on with life

 

[mckernan]

yes, it's called rust
you could got a NEW and much better one for FREE under warranty at your canadian dealership instead of wasting time messing with it

if you're american, you're SOL... just buy a new one and get on with life

'tis what i did, right after cleaning it

the part is 200$ here so i looked into it

 

[Laser Blue]

subbin'

 

[hedlesschkn]

just got my EGR out, had to take out the cold air and sprawl myself over the engine bay, diving down a bit and then bend my arms in directions they dont bend with a tiny little rachet to get those rusty 12mm bolts off... no big deal...(hand)

round one: rust remover
round two: goo gone
round three: grill cleaner "cuts through heavy grease baked on foods and carbon" (should do the trick)
round four: WD-40 for lube and more rust removal / prevention

she was throwing P0300 codes before and shuttering but only every so often, checked the fuel pump filter sock (looked clean but i cleaned it extra just in case), checked plugs (look almost new), checked coils (meet the manual's ohm testing, might replace them anyways), checked the high tension wires for the plugs (meet manuals ohm testing too) so if the EGR valve doesnt fix her shes going to the stealership unless you guys have any other ideas? (shrug)

 

[Laser Blue]

just got my EGR out, had to take out the cold air and sprawl myself over the engine bay, diving down a bit and then bend my arms in directions they dont bend with a tiny little rachet to get those rusty 12mm bolts off... no big deal...(hand)

round one: rust remover
round two: goo gone
round three: grill cleaner "cuts through heavy grease baked on foods and carbon" (should do the trick)
round four: WD-40 for lube and more rust removal / prevention

she was throwing P0300 codes before and shuttering but only every so often, checked the fuel pump filter sock (looked clean but i cleaned it extra just in case), checked plugs (look almost new), checked coils (meet the manual's ohm testing, might replace them anyways), checked the high tension wires for the plugs (meet manuals ohm testing too) so if the EGR valve doesnt fix her shes going to the stealership unless you guys have any other ideas? (shrug)

I'd be curious to know whether the EGR fix worked before looking to other areas, although the other tests/checks you ran were all good ideas.

 

[hedlesschkn]

AMAZING! i just took her for a test drive after the valve clean and the results are excellent. after each of my previous attempts at fixing the misfire probem i drove to the local VIP, sat in the parking lot for a few mins and then started her up. it would either studder and nearly die after that distance or i could get it to crap out by turning the car off while moving and engine breaking to start it back up just down the street. well after the clean i cant get her to misfire, tried using the AC, the heater, engine braking to start the car a few times, did my VIP auto center test drive etc etc. and the best part is now it idles even better than before and throttle responce is noticably improved. my shifting magically became so smooth i could convince some people i did a CVT swap!

THANK YOU THANK YOU for the how to! you saved me from a stealership run!

 

[TheMAN]

good luck
it will just come back sometime in the future

replacing it is the only way to go

 

[Laser Blue]

good luck
it will just come back sometime in the future

replacing it is the only way to go

I'm confused...

If the reason for the hesitation is the buildup of carbons and/or rust, and cleaning it resolves the problem until it gets crusty again...

Then, if you get a new one wouldn't it also run fine until it got carbons and rust built up in it, necessitating the same removal and cleaning?

If so, why would it be so advantageous to buy a new one? Why spend $200 so that you can clean the crud out of a newer one next time when you could have cleaned the crud out of the old one and saved the money?

 

[323]

the canadian one is designed differently

 

[TheMAN]

I'm confused...

If the reason for the hesitation is the buildup of carbons and/or rust, and cleaning it resolves the problem until it gets crusty again...

Then, if you get a new one wouldn't it also run fine until it got carbons and rust built up in it, necessitating the same removal and cleaning?

If so, why would it be so advantageous to buy a new one? Why spend $200 so that you can clean the crud out of a newer one next time when you could have cleaned the crud out of the old one and saved the money?

because the new ones you buy are redesigned and improved parts

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