How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix

^ advise what?

Clean the EGR, if the problem persists, check the MAF.

I have broken two MAF's now, if your MAF is broken or malfunctioning, you should have a CEL on. Search how to clean MAF if you'd rather try that first...

When you have two possible problems, eliminate one to see if the other is the actual problem. Checking/cleaning both shouldn't take you more than an hour or two.
 
I disagree

I don't understand the big fuzz about a canadian EGR valve. Mine stucked three times:

1st: 56910Km, warranty
2nd: 71048Km, warranty but I had to scream (i was pissed...) (gun)
3rd: 128000km, I clean it myself and i keep my finger crossed.

My car has 136 000 Km now and i know it will happen again. I've seen some stuff about unlimited warranty and I might give it a try.

Anyways, this is the reason why I disagree with the canadian EGR valve being so much better.

I wish lots of luck to every EGR valve victims.
 
My 2 cents

First, want to thank Vega for pointing us in the right direction. Just finished cleaning the EGR valve. It's my stepson's car so he'll have to let me know later how it's running, but the first impression from him is that it is running smoother. Few pointers though:

1) Yes, do remove the battery, makes life much, much easier.

2) To remove the connector, use a flat blade screwdriver and depress the bottom portion of the gray tab.

3) I used a small 1/4" ratchet to remove the bolts, worked fine since those bolts are not on there very tight.

4) To remove the 4 small screws, this is where a lot of people stripped them, soak them in PB Blaster and, here's the important part, use a vise-grip to loosen them. Doesn't take much force at all. I tried screwdriver, no go. The vise-grip will loosen the bolts just enough.

5) Cut out a soda can(careful, don't cut yourself-use a plier to move the egr in and out), , fill it with cleaner of your choice (I use throttle body cleaner) and soak the egr valve in it. The goal here is not to totally clean out the black gunk, but to loosen the shaft so the valve close and open easily. I use a mini grinder, a dremel works well too, to clean out the black gunk.

6) If the damn light comes back and the car running rough again, I'm replacing the damn thing :-)

Thank for everyone input, very much appreciated.
 
Last edited:
I just got done doing it .... Took about 2 hrs wasnt that bad and yes it is a bit awkward .....

My car is an automatic so for all those with auto's I will let you know if it did anything.

I dont think it will because the spring wasn't stuck but there was a lot of gunk in there.

While I was at it i unscrewed the front heat shield toward the manifold under the car that was causing all the ratling.

Will update ASAP (stoned)
 
Ok Updat Mine is an auto .... So far all is good running pretty smooth. I really didn't have an idle problem but wanted to get this out of the way.

It did want to stall the first few stop lights but after that everything was fine''' Idles smooth now.
 
^ if you disconnected the battery, that is kinda normal...

Every time I've disconnected mine, it wants to die at stops for about 20-30 miles, then it sorts everything out and returns to normal.
 
Fantastic

FANTASTIC!!! I cleaned my EGR tonight on my MP3 and it made a huge difference. I only have 67,000km on my car and this needed to be done...so you guys that have like 120k on yours...do it and you will be much happier! Before I couldn't let the clutch out and let the car pull its self with out pressing on the gas and now it is so much smoother. I found that once i took the valve off and sprayed brake cleaner into it not much happened. I then took some Q-tips and scrubbed the valve inside with it and some brake clean and it made a huge difference...anyway thanks for the HOW TO.
 
EGR Changing Experience

OK, so... I looked at the picture on the first post of this thread, read the instructions, (including the part about it should take around only 30 minutes), and decided to improve my car's performance...

I bought a new EGR ($134, online & delivered). Figured I dont thave the time to mess around with a rusty old car part (my MSP has 123,500 miles on it today). So I spent the money...

Disconnected the air intake from the throttle body. Was easy to unscrew / loosen the hose clamp, but removing the plastic intake from the throttle required a bit of effort; it wouldnt come right off, had to wiggle it back and forth with some force to get it off. I also thought about the consequences of me dropping something accidentally into that throttle body.... Compounding that minor intake removal problem was the adjacent metal tubing from the master brake reservoir, an easily bent item... needed to be careful to not hit it.

I also needed to move another air duct, from/to the air filter. I unclipped the filter box top, and pushed it to the side.

But I realized there was still no way I could easily get that EGR thing off. Who was the idiot that designed this layout?? I don't have small hands, and needed more room. I really needed the battery out of the way. Which meant I needed to remove also the anti-sway bar that cross over the top of the battery from shock to shock. That then gave me the room I needed.

Then the electrical connector to the solenoid wouldnt come off. Of course there's some simple clip on it that I should have been able to figure out, but even with an engineering degree I couldnt... so I forced it, breaking part of the plastic cover off it. (Probably the part with the clip; so then it came right off.)

I read in that first post there are two 12mm bolts holding the EGR on, so I got my smallest ratchet with a 12mm socket (it fit on both bolts nicely), and turned. No luck; it's stuck. After f*ing around with various angles and positions for like half an hour, I realized -- wait a minute... although "righty tighty lefty loosey", these were pointing UP, so I was turning the wrong way. I really have to start drinking less when I do car work. They then popped loose easily.

The EGR dropped off easily, as did the metal gasket. I cleaned that as best I could, as I was going to re-use it. The new one went on easily; I used Loctite on the bolts. I also used electrical tape on the connector, with a zip tie to hold it on. After re-assembly of everything (total time = 4 hours?) the car ran ... worse than before.

I originally did this because of the severe hesitation on full acceleration; I wanted to get the EGR & PCV changed before I got the ECM reflashed. But now, there is a rough idle / near stall at idle, where there wasnt any before. I hope the reflash will fix this too...

I write all this to let these things be lessons learned to others...
 
OK, so... I looked at the picture on the first post of this thread, read the instructions, (including the part about it should take around only 30 minutes), and decided to improve my car's performance...

I bought a new EGR ($134, online & delivered). Figured I dont thave the time to mess around with a rusty old car part (my MSP has 123,500 miles on it today). So I spent the money...

Disconnected the air intake from the throttle body. Was easy to unscrew / loosen the hose clamp, but removing the plastic intake from the throttle required a bit of effort; it wouldnt come right off, had to wiggle it back and forth with some force to get it off. I also thought about the consequences of me dropping something accidentally into that throttle body.... Compounding that minor intake removal problem was the adjacent metal tubing from the master brake reservoir, an easily bent item... needed to be careful to not hit it.

I also needed to move another air duct, from/to the air filter. I unclipped the filter box top, and pushed it to the side.

But I realized there was still no way I could easily get that EGR thing off. Who was the idiot that designed this layout?? I don't have small hands, and needed more room. I really needed the battery out of the way. Which meant I needed to remove also the anti-sway bar that cross over the top of the battery from shock to shock. That then gave me the room I needed.

Then the electrical connector to the solenoid wouldnt come off. Of course there's some simple clip on it that I should have been able to figure out, but even with an engineering degree I couldnt... so I forced it, breaking part of the plastic cover off it. (Probably the part with the clip; so then it came right off.)

I read in that first post there are two 12mm bolts holding the EGR on, so I got my smallest ratchet with a 12mm socket (it fit on both bolts nicely), and turned. No luck; it's stuck. After f*ing around with various angles and positions for like half an hour, I realized -- wait a minute... although "righty tighty lefty loosey", these were pointing UP, so I was turning the wrong way. I really have to start drinking less when I do car work. They then popped loose easily.

The EGR dropped off easily, as did the metal gasket. I cleaned that as best I could, as I was going to re-use it. The new one went on easily; I used Loctite on the bolts. I also used electrical tape on the connector, with a zip tie to hold it on. After re-assembly of everything (total time = 4 hours?) the car ran ... worse than before.

I originally did this because of the severe hesitation on full acceleration; I wanted to get the EGR & PCV changed before I got the ECM reflashed. But now, there is a rough idle / near stall at idle, where there wasnt any before. I hope the reflash will fix this too...

I write all this to let these things be lessons learned to others...

Sorry man, but I find it a little weird that you blew $136 on a new EGR valve, but didn't want to drop $2 on a new gasket (any auto parts store carries them). As for the rough idle, check to make sure all of your hoses are properly reconnected. You may also have f-ed up the electrical connector when you broke the plastic part.
 
Anyway disadvantage to disabling the EGR altogether?

Yes there is, without a CEL. You have to add resistors to the four pin connector, I'm at work right now, so I don't remember the specifics, but IIRC one is 100kohm anr the other is 200kohm. The PCU will think the vavle is still plugged in.

I'll try to dig up the specifics later.

Britt
 
BTW there is not "unlimited" warranty. There is an 80,000 mile emissions warranty seperate from the bumper to bumper. However, that said, Mazda isn't going to replace it just cause you ask them to. The part has to fail causing the car to not meet federal emissions standards. The EGR won't do that. The car will likely still pass with the EGR sticking.

Mine is acting up again, 52,000 miles. I personally plan to pick up the Canadian version asap. The actual cleaning is easy, for me it's the weeks leading up the the realization that I have to do it again is what really sucks.

Glad this thread helped a few people.

Britt
 
Anyone have any good sites to pick up the canuck version? Local dealers are charging $185 for the part, and autozone is about $140 or so. I cleaned mine and got the bad idle and stalling to stop for about 1200 miles or so. I'm pretty sure that's what's causing the CEL. Dealer never heard of any extended warranty or replacement or even a TSB, though they did admit to having to replace a lot of them, and the fact that they had 52 valves on hand makes me believe it's more common then they care to admit.
Mind you I don't want to knock the car, with 84k on it and I've only had a $130 part go wrong, it really isn't bad at all considering I haven't had to do diddly squat other then normal maintenance on it. (knocks on wood lol)

BTW Thanks for the informative post on replacing/cleaning this piece, it's been inspiring on a fix I can actually do and saved me oodles of money trying to diagnose and fix it using a mechanic.
 
Updated:
Well, I did the cleaning on my stepson's 01 ES, and it has been almost a month now. He has reported that the car is running smooth, and the check engine light hasn't come back so you can count me in as successful one!!
 
Anyone have any good sites to pick up the canuck version? Local dealers are charging $185 for the part, and autozone is about $140 or so. I cleaned mine and got the bad idle and stalling to stop for about 1200 miles or so. I'm pretty sure that's what's causing the CEL. Dealer never heard of any extended warranty or replacement or even a TSB, though they did admit to having to replace a lot of them, and the fact that they had 52 valves on hand makes me believe it's more common then they care to admit.
Mind you I don't want to knock the car, with 84k on it and I've only had a $130 part go wrong, it really isn't bad at all considering I haven't had to do diddly squat other then normal maintenance on it. (knocks on wood lol)

BTW Thanks for the informative post on replacing/cleaning this piece, it's been inspiring on a fix I can actually do and saved me oodles of money trying to diagnose and fix it using a mechanic.

Ordered a EGR valve and new gasket from Autozone, should be coming on Saturday. Once it's installed I'll let you all know if it does the trick and if it ever fails again, it has a 3 year warranty so I should be good to go for replacing it.
 
Back