ok i cleaned the egr a few weeks ago (maybe 3). i bought my mp3 with an aftermarket turbo kit on it with the spool manifold. which means no bung for the egr tube so mine is just sitting there... disconnected. yesterday, i was turning my car died on me (scary when u have a turbo timer that keeps everything on) in the middle of a turn. it did it once again tonite. is there some sort of block off plate for the egr tube/pipe?
How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix
- Thread starter 122 Vega
- Start date
You're killing me.
Why didn't you clamp vise-grips to the head of the bolt to break it loose? I know from very recent experience that the heads round out very easily. However...the bolts will break loose easily with the above mentioned method.
Why didn't you clamp vise-grips to the head of the bolt to break it loose? I know from very recent experience that the heads round out very easily. However...the bolts will break loose easily with the above mentioned method.
Brand new Air Intake Hose/Tubes are only like $30 more or less from the dealer. I replaced mine and it made a world of difference in terms of idling and better acceleration, car felt much 'lighter' during take-off from a dead stop.after going back out there, my intake tube is now cracked in half. basically its almost in two pieces now, cut across the middle where the flexy part is. i had absolutely zero luck even getting at the two bolts to remove the EGR valve so i threw the intake tube back on and moved it out of the garage. now the car will barely stay alive at all. it shakes and the lights dim every time the RPMs drop. This really sucks.
I just got the infamous Check Engine Light - AGAIN for the 4th time! Time to remove the EGR valve for a good cleaning, hope it helps since I've never touched it for 125k+ miles.
goodfornothing
Member
- :
- 03 22v P5-T
Well that was a while ago, but I wasn't talking about the bolts that hold the EGR to the throttle body. I'm talking about the four screws ON the valve holding it to the solenoid. I might just end up taking the whole throttle body out like what some guy in the previous posts did.
friedclams
Member
Thanks
I registered on this site solely to thank you, Britt... your excellent photos emboldened me to do this (very simple) job. Nice to have my Protege purring again.
I registered on this site solely to thank you, Britt... your excellent photos emboldened me to do this (very simple) job. Nice to have my Protege purring again.
red95_240sx
Member
its not always the EGR. It probly the ECu reset thats don the temporary trick for most of you.
Vega - Just wanted to drop in and thank you for posting your "How to." Car started stumbling last night at idle, and got a little worse on the way home. I just searched "idling" and came upon your post.
It was a b**** getting the electrical connector off. Figured out you need to push hard on the tab you can see right where the wires go in. The other PITA, as previously mentioned, was the cheese screws holding the two halves together. I backed them off with a vise grips until I could unscrew them. Spent $3 at Valu to replace them and reinstalled them with copper anti-sieze for when I need to do this again.
The tip on using graphite lock lube on the spring assembly was brilliant.
Anyway...purrs along at 700 rpm now.
Thanks for taking the time to do this!
It was a b**** getting the electrical connector off. Figured out you need to push hard on the tab you can see right where the wires go in. The other PITA, as previously mentioned, was the cheese screws holding the two halves together. I backed them off with a vise grips until I could unscrew them. Spent $3 at Valu to replace them and reinstalled them with copper anti-sieze for when I need to do this again.
The tip on using graphite lock lube on the spring assembly was brilliant.
Anyway...purrs along at 700 rpm now.
Thanks for taking the time to do this!
You guys are lucky, I couldn't get those 12mm bolts out, so to prevent from further stripping the bolts, I've only be able to get the top portion off and halted the other half. The 1.6 LX are a b**** to get into, I didn't have to remove the battery like most have mentioned (I think it's only for the 1.8L), but the way it's positioned is like almost impossible to get into unless you hoist the car up and do it from underneath.
Does this mean the ECU can give you intermittent reads, what do you have to do, disconnect the negative battery terminal and leave it off for a set period of time?
red95_240sx
Member
yea
Hahaha why would you do it yourself if it's covered under an unlimited warranty. In my old 02 Protege would also stall out when I would idle. It would cost $300 plus to get it fixed at a garage or have to pull it apart myself and clean it like most of you but I took it to Mazda and it's covered under an unlimited warranty. The EGR is faulty in the protege. Therefore, they fix it or replace it if needed, FOR FREE 
Not sure if the warranty stuff is different in the USA but that's what it is here in Canada haha, go check it out.
Not sure if the warranty stuff is different in the USA but that's what it is here in Canada haha, go check it out.
Hahaha why would you do it yourself if it's covered under an unlimited warranty. In my old 02 Protege would also stall out when I would idle. It would cost $300 plus to get it fixed at a garage or have to pull it apart myself and clean it like most of you but I took it to Mazda and it's covered under an unlimited warranty. The EGR is faulty in the protege. Therefore, they fix it or replace it if needed, FOR FREE
Not sure if the warranty stuff is different in the USA but that's what it is here in Canada haha, go check it out.
I doubt it, but I'll check it out. Thanks
