How To: DIY Ground Wire Kit
- Thread starter Gro Harlem
- Start date
Gro Harlem
Member
that pic you showed of the ebay kit uses 8 guage cable.....completely worthless.
you can buy a 8-guage amp kit at walmart for 12 dollars and ghetto rig it with some bad connectors if you wanted.
All the dyno results were done with 4-guage kits...so i'll stick with that. I have yet to see any proof that 8 guage is just as effective as 4 guage, it is all a matter of your opinion (and cheap-assness) if you want to save yourself 20 dollars by buying shittier wire.
you can buy a 8-guage amp kit at walmart for 12 dollars and ghetto rig it with some bad connectors if you wanted.
All the dyno results were done with 4-guage kits...so i'll stick with that. I have yet to see any proof that 8 guage is just as effective as 4 guage, it is all a matter of your opinion (and cheap-assness) if you want to save yourself 20 dollars by buying shittier wire.
Gro Harlem said:
Gro Harlem,
I think you did a great job on your how-to, but I think you are a little premature in cutting down the 8ga kits. I would wager, that you will have exactly the same results from them as you would a 4ga setup. I originally had a fairly nasty write-up because of your comments and took it personally.
I would have personally run a before and after dyno, but since it cost $100 here in Omaha, I'm not going to do it. I am tempted to get one done, though.
I did mine this evening and didn't really notice anything different. Perhaps some part throttle response has increased, but I couldn't tell anything else.
A general rule of thumb, if it is under 10HP, you aren't really going to be able to tell without either timeslips or dyno runs. The butt-o-meter usually isn't that sensitive
Good luck on those that do this. If anyone has cheap access to a dyno, perhaps you can get some before/after results, be it 4ga or 8ga
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I just did my own today. It may be the placebo effect but I thought I had a little boost in HP. I can't comment on other things like Radio quality or headlights. If there was no gain at all and it's psychological no harm no foul it didn't cost me much. Here is what it cost me:
6 ft. 8 gauge speaker wire 1.59/ft
Gold Plated 8 gauge ring terminals 11.99
Battery Terminal Connector 24.99
Heat Shrink Tubing 1.59
Total approx. 50.00
All parts except the shrink wrap were bought at Circut City and were by Tsunami. The shrink wrap was purchased at Lowes.
This was used in conjunction with the stock grounding system. I got a battery terminal with 2 8 gauge connectors and 1 four gauge connector(for stock ground system). One terminal was for the drivers side chassis ground, and the other 8 gauge terminal was for the daisy chain. I used the following ground points. Tranny, Manifold, Passenger side chassis, head, and drivers side chassis. Thanks for the how to. I will post pics tomorrow
6 ft. 8 gauge speaker wire 1.59/ft
Gold Plated 8 gauge ring terminals 11.99
Battery Terminal Connector 24.99
Heat Shrink Tubing 1.59
Total approx. 50.00
All parts except the shrink wrap were bought at Circut City and were by Tsunami. The shrink wrap was purchased at Lowes.
This was used in conjunction with the stock grounding system. I got a battery terminal with 2 8 gauge connectors and 1 four gauge connector(for stock ground system). One terminal was for the drivers side chassis ground, and the other 8 gauge terminal was for the daisy chain. I used the following ground points. Tranny, Manifold, Passenger side chassis, head, and drivers side chassis. Thanks for the how to. I will post pics tomorrow
AFaceInTheCrowd
Member
- :
- 2010 Subaru Legacy GT
there are more strands in 4 awg. that means less resistance. so there is more "flow" through the 4 awg. i would like to use like 1/0 awg but that might be overkill. i would highly suggest the 4 awg.
I used 4 guage ,20ft in total + terminals ,came to 35Can. I would make your own kit ,It takes a few hrs to make and install .
These are my connections ,Battery to stock ground point (drivers side ) ,Battery to intake ,intake to fuel rail ,fuel rail to frame bolt ,Stock engine ground to frame (left side )engine to frame right side ,tranny to frame right side .
Everyone has done there grounding different ,as long as the contact is good ,they all shoud work. The whole point of doing this mod is to reduce restance .
The side benifits are ,better idle ,better throttle response ,lower rpms on the highway ,better starting . These are what I have noticed so far . As far as a good thing ,it doesn't hurt ,and its a cheap mod to do .
These are my connections ,Battery to stock ground point (drivers side ) ,Battery to intake ,intake to fuel rail ,fuel rail to frame bolt ,Stock engine ground to frame (left side )engine to frame right side ,tranny to frame right side .
Everyone has done there grounding different ,as long as the contact is good ,they all shoud work. The whole point of doing this mod is to reduce restance .
The side benifits are ,better idle ,better throttle response ,lower rpms on the highway ,better starting . These are what I have noticed so far . As far as a good thing ,it doesn't hurt ,and its a cheap mod to do .
Well, neither did I. I've got wires running so many places now, it's pathetic. I also still have my headlights dim when the a/c kicks on. Not sure if I have any benefit from this.
I also used 8ga wires instead of 4ga, but like I have said before...The butt-o-meter doesn't really register until around 10HP. Only dyno runs will truely show the differences. Any volunteers?
Sam
I also used 8ga wires instead of 4ga, but like I have said before...The butt-o-meter doesn't really register until around 10HP. Only dyno runs will truely show the differences. Any volunteers?
Sam
