How to cure Cel/Mil from removing cat with Non-Fouler

[adedude]

Where are you located at?

Seattle, WA

Well.. it shouldn't have clicked on so quick. I think it takes like 125miles for it to fulling go thru and read all the readings before it checks and throws a CEL. Did you disconnect the power or the negative batter terminal? I have a 2.0 so i'm not sure if its the same. The little hole acts like you have a cat. Thats why it gets less air flow. The part isn't that expensive so if you make it a little bigger and it doesn't work its not like you are paying $100 for it.

I'd disconnect the negative battery terminal for 15mins.. then put it back on, that should be sufficate enough to flash the ECU. If it popped on that quick then it still had fresh memory in it from what i understand, but i could be wrong.

When i flashed mine, it took about 3 mins to start my car because the battery was being drained from all the other electical equiptment.

I disconnected the negative terminal for 5 hours or so. I also deleted the code with the OBD scanner after it popped up and it came back that way too. I think the condition that triggers it is that the car experiences the same problem consecutively during two "starts" of the car.

 

[Drake13]

Well dude.. i'm not sure what to tell you. I'd send a message to the dude who created the HOW-TO and ask him for advice. I'm sure he has tones of information. Since yours is the 1.6, its different.

 

[adedude]

So what I've been able to learn so far is that the O2 sensor has a heater in it that is supposed to heat up the sensor faster so the the engine can run in closed loop mode. I removed the non-fouler closest to the header because I thought having the sensor closer to the exhaust stream might make it heat up fast enough, but I still have the same P1141 code (but at least I still don't have the excessive flow code).

From the manual it looks like terminals C and D on the plug are supposed to have a resistence of 15.7 ohms (at least that it what it's supposed to be on the FS engine), that there is a positive voltage from terminal C and that terminal D has continuity to the ground. I'm going to try checking it tomorrow. Hopefully the PB blaster I got on the sensor when trying to remove it didn't mess it up! I know I didn't overtwist the wires.

Pulling the O2 sensor in:

I'm surprised the computer doesn't tell you "no airflow":

Anyone know if there is a way to clean the O2 sensor?

 

[theice]

Are you attaching a second non-fouler to what you have in the pic?

You want it to look like this.

 

[adedude]

Are you attaching a second non-fouler to what you have in the pic?

You want it to look like this.
Picture

I did, but I removed it. Still no excessive flow code.

 

[Drake13]

Well dude.. your problem is way out of my personal experince. Looks like you installed it properly.. the only thing i can think of is perhaps you might have damaged the guy during install. Those are very sensative from what I hear. I'm not sure how much a OEM one is. If you have a junk yard close by you might want to see about getting another one if nothing else seems to work.

Good Luck!

 

[adedude]

Hey guys, I finally got around to testing my O2 sensor and I found out the code I am getting is inaccurate: "Heater Circuit Low Input". I am getting NO input (but there is no OBDII code for this). There is no continuity between the C and D terminals (the black wires)

So it looks like the heater on my O2 sensor is broken. I plan to wire in a 15.7ohm resistor between the two black wires. Hopefully it will fool the computer into believing the heater is working properly. Thanks for all your help! I'll let you know how it goes when I finally get to doing it!

 

[Drake13]

Hey guys, I finally got around to testing my O2 sensor and I found out the code I am getting is inaccurate: "Heater Circuit Low Input". I am getting NO input (but there is no OBDII code for this). There is no continuity between the C and D terminals (the black wires)

So it looks like the heater on my O2 sensor is broken. I plan to wire in a 15.7ohm resistor between the two black wires. Hopefully it will fool the computer into believing the heater is working properly. Thanks for all your help! I'll let you know how it goes when I finally get to doing it!

sounds good... keep us posted

 

[Rac3rX]

Hey guys, I finally got around to testing my O2 sensor and I found out the code I am getting is inaccurate: "Heater Circuit Low Input". I am getting NO input (but there is no OBDII code for this). There is no continuity between the C and D terminals (the black wires)

So it looks like the heater on my O2 sensor is broken. I plan to wire in a 15.7ohm resistor between the two black wires. Hopefully it will fool the computer into believing the heater is working properly. Thanks for all your help! I'll let you know how it goes when I finally get to doing it!

How did it go??

 

[adedude]

How did it go??

I haven't tried it yet. I got LASIK two weeks ago and have been taking it easy. I'll let you know when I do it though. I already picked up a pack of 15ohm resistors at radio shack.

 

[jestyle2002]

This was a great post! Quick and easy.

 

[FSCatalyst]

Would this work for a system with no Cats (Primary and secondary removed)? Would I still have the first o2 sensor on the header and the second o2 with the nonfouler in the midpipe?


racerx told me I have to apply it to my second and third o2 sensor and for the love of god i cant even find the third o2 sensor let alone find it in the factory service manual...

 

[Drake13]

My setup is almost the same as you mentioned above.. the second 02 censor should be located on your header ( closest to the ground ). Just do as the how-to says and remember to flash the ECU by disconnecting the negative termnal on the battery for 10-15 mins.. should be good to go if you did it right.

 

[jeg0024]

I just got an OBX header and will be installing it as soon as it gets in, should I go ahead and get the non-foulers and get them ready? Is this really needed and do they tell you this stuff when you get/buy the header? Do they expect the 2nd o2 sensor to work fine without this? And about the ECU...why does it need flashed, I really dont want to lose all my settings on my radio, I had that s*** custom set up by my friend and I dont feel like having him do it all over again, any other way to flash the ECU? Thanks guys!

 

[adedude]

How did it go??

WOW DO NOT TRY IT. The resistor got too hot and then started flaming. I had in wired up on alligator clips on the outside of my car and it burned my left turn signal light. =(

Then as I was try to blow it out and move it to somewhere where it couldn't burn my car, the two wires touched and my car died immediately. After I disconnected the resistor I tried to start my car. The oil tempurature gauge was as high as it could go and my car would not start. I freaked out for 10 minutes before I found that one of the fuses was blown. I replaced it and now my car works fine.

However, while the resistor was in place the CEL did not come on as it usually did. If you want to try it you'll need to know how many amps are running between the two black wires. Then you can use P = IE to find out what wattage resistor you need. I made the mistake of using a half-watt resistor that could not handle the current (it was supposed to be replacing a heater after all). It has been too long since I took EE201.

It would be nice to know the technical schematics of the O2 sensor. With the right equipment, I could probably create a fake O2 sensor and save everyone a lot of trouble.

Oh well, I bought an cheap universal O2 sensor off ebay for $25 and I'm going to try to jam it into the spark plug non-fouler instead. Did you guys have problems with the thread sizes being wrong? My O2 sensor does not fit into the header or the spark plug nonfouler, but the nonfouler fits into the header just fine.

 

[Drake13]

I freaked out for 10 minutes before I found that one of the fuses was blown. I replaced it and now my car works fine.

HAHA damn i couldn't stop laughing.. sorry dude i just pictured Peter (Family Guy) running around all over the place..

I noticed you got a 2000 protege.. do you got the 1.8? I bet that is your problem, but i could be wrong. I'm not sure which HOW-TO you went by but if you followed this one you shouldn't of done anything with wires, other then disconnecting/reconnecting the O2 sensor.

Send a link to the one you did.

 

[Coolhand]

Just installed the non-foulers today, and hoping to keep the CEL light out. Have only driven 25 miles since, so we'll see what happens. Will keep updated.

 

[adedude]

HAHA damn i couldn't stop laughing.. sorry dude i just pictured Peter (Family Guy) running around all over the place..

I noticed you got a 2000 protege.. do you got the 1.8? I bet that is your problem, but i could be wrong. I'm not sure which HOW-TO you went by but if you followed this one you shouldn't of done anything with wires, other then disconnecting/reconnecting the O2 sensor.

Send a link to the one you did.

I have the 1.6 unfortunately. The reason I am messing with the wires is because I am trying to get rid of a P1141 code (rear O2 sensor heater low voltage). This has nothing to do with the excessive flow codes.

I was able to use this guide to get rid of the excessive flow code, however in the process the O2 sensor heater was broken. That is what I am trying to fix.

 

[jeg0024]

Note to self, and others...when drilling out the non-fouler, its f***ing hot! Dont try to grab it or the drill bit when it falls out because you didnt tighten it enough.

PS. Got the non-foulers today and hooked them up, now I just need a header! Also, is the gasket thing needed? They didnt have ones with, so I got without.

 

[Hughes412]

Note to self, and others...when drilling out the non-fouler, its f***ing hot! Dont try to grab it or the drill bit when it falls out because you didnt tighten it enough.

PS. Got the non-foulers today and hooked them up, now I just need a header! Also, is the gasket thing needed? They didnt have ones with, so I got without.

LOL wtf, you got the defoulers but don't need them? lol I guess that means your getting a header soon.

Just messin w/you.

No you don't need any gaskets. Just tighten them up good.