How to best coilover or perhaps not for a Mazda5?

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2008 Mazda5 GT
Mazda5 YellowSpeed Coilovers

The recent suspension discussion brought some interesting points and since we have a few members with good first hand experience, figure now is prime to bring this up. Ive had this in mind and taking notes/measurements and put them aside for awhile and have been too lazy to follow through. Winter leads to tinkering time. I hope to get feedback from those with experience or knowledge/understanding and not just hearsay.

I have never used a true full coilover setup. Ive always been a separate spring/shock combo kinda guy on all my previous cars simply b/c DD is #1 priority. Im also cautious about wintery environments. I did try coil over sleeves, once, when I was much younger (stock shocks (silly)). I feel Im a little bit more informed and am very tempted to give a full CO a try and want to see if I am approaching it right.

For now, lets just use rears for discussion b/c I have a set of YellowSpeed (YS) Coilovers (CO) available for measurements. If someone have a rear OE spring lying around, PLEASE measure the total free length, coil diamter, and inner diameter. It would also allow us to gauge a percentage difference.


Basic Info
http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/minivans-vans/112_0809_2008_mazda5_first_look/viewall.html
Curb weight (dist f/r) 3417-3475 (mfr)
Weight dist., f/r 56/44 manual, 57/43 automatic
Specs above per Motor trend for a red 2008 auto GT - I just happen to have a red 2008 auto GT :D. Well use the GT specs as the example. If we distribute the 3,475lbs for 43% rear, this give us 1,494.25lbs on the rear axle. Split that in half and we get 747.125 lbs rear corner. Cars are never truly symmetrical so well have to estimate and assume even distribution. Anyone here corner weight their car?? Another assumption well have to make is total unspring weight; weight thats not load bearing on the suspension (tire/rim/rotors/calipers/etc. and some parts of the suspension geometry). Theres no way to tell this exactly but from surfing the web, I get numbers ranging from 70-150lbs (sub compacts to full size). Considering the Mazda5 is built on the Mazda3, which is a compact so on the lower end of the weight scale, Id guestimate ~100 lbs.?. If someone can clarify or add some more, that would be great. 747.125 100 = 647.125 sprung weight on the corner. Since we are estimating, lets round this up to somewhere around 650lbs pushing down on one of the rear corners at rest.


YS rear spring
http://yellow-speed.com/products.php?func=p_list&pc_parent=1&p_front_type=ss&p_brand=MAZDA
I have Yellowspeed DSPs so this will be the example. The rear springs are marked 074 160 008, which seems be 74mm inner diameter (2.91), 160mm height (6.23), 8kg/mm spring rate (447.98 lbs/in). I wasnt sure so I measured them to be sure (still unsure about the spring rate, more on that later). I also the questionable consistency of these low end springs.

Spring Specs per dial caliper/ruler:

Height: 6.4375
OD Top: 4.47 (I think the top coils are wider to mount the stock spring perch as it does not come with one like the BC, which you have to put ontop of the existing OE spring perch)
OD Bottom: 4.5 (ID is smaller on the bottom)
Coil Thickness: .6
Total Coils: ~4.8
Active Coils: totally guessing ~2.8 (or less)?
Material: Listed as SAE9254 steel in the literature. Anyone know what material resembles this in psi/GPa? Google is coming up with silicon chrome steel or chrome vanadium as most commonly used for car springs but I cant get an exact match to that SAE standard. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/modulus-rigidity-d_946.html. The spring has a slight tapered design in that you cannot invert it. B/c of these, I cannot get any of the online tools/formulas to accurately spring rate. Can someone here confirm this?


Calculating
So the .6 thickness x 4.8 coils = 2.88 in total coil thickness (height) when the spring is fully bind. 6.4375 total length 2.88 coil thickness = 3.5575 of full theoretical suspension travel. At rest, the corner is already pushing down 650lbs. Assuming the spring is 8kg/mm (=447.979 lbs/in), the 650lbs would be 145% of the 447.979 lbs/in spring, so about -1.45. At rest, the suspension would be 3.5575 1.45 = 2.1 rounded. I have max 3.55 when wheel is in the air or high speed forces and 2.1 in low speed situations. Someone check my math.


Undetermined Variables

Bump Stop
This does not factor in the loss of travel from the bump stops/jounce bumpers! They measure .82 in total height but all is not lost. While these YS stops seem to be pretty much hard stops but Id wager theres a smaller percentage compression in it before you feel the big crush. The top has .37 trapezoid shape so Im going to guess it offers somewhat linear rate (totally guessing). The bottom .45 half is solid.


Shock Travel
Generic promo pic

The total length of the exposed shaft is 5.57 from the top of the base to the bottom of top hat. So, 5.57 free length - .82 bump stops = 4.75. 4.75 3.5575 (unbinding spring) = 1.1925 of shock travel not used by the shocks or spring. Someone check my math.
Of course, this completely ignores the optimal range these shocks are built to operate in. Interesting unofficial test: when cranked all the way to soft, the rears can be compress pretty easily (bound) and decompress at a moderate rate (rebound). When cranked all the way to hard, the compression is slightly harder but decompression is noticeably slower. It leads me to belive the promo chart is somehwhat onpoint but not necessarily to scale.


Conclusion
More questions than answers. With COs, there isnt much as much free travel to work with. However, there seems to be about 1.1925 length of dark space that is physically impossible to reach. Is this necessary to prolog the shock from blowing? Why the aggressive bump stop? The reason I did all this is to see if I can 1) swap out for a lower spring rate, say 6kg/mm (335.984488 lbs/in). B/c of the lower rate, the forces at hwy speeds x weight would prob amplify what the shocks has to manage and need more space to work with. Do we have a physics major in the house? The question Im not sure on is: can I use a longer 6kg/mm spring? It looks like I have free length and the ID of the spring is close to 3, which is common. The sleeve seems to be able to accommodate the length since Im not looking to slam it. Even an extra .5" would do wonders. Im also thinking since the travel will be short, no matter what, how helpful would it be to mitigate the bump at full compression by using a longer and more progressive jounce bumper? This way, the progressive stop (rates in the hundreds of lbs/in) can help manage the compression along with the lower rated spring, sorta like a filler. http://fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_app_guide.htm
 
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If that is the setup that are recommended from Yellow Speed I would run it first before changing anything.
Softer spring does not guarantee softer ride because the limited stroke on coil over might cause it to bottom out all the time instead.

If you end up wanting better spring Swift makes the best coil over spring. They use some different formulation on the material that makes them still achieve the same spring rate but with much less coil winding thus giving you much better spring travel without binding.
 
Thanks for the feedback.

I would not simply put in a softer spring. The reason I did the calc is to see how much travel I have and IF I can play with what I have. If my math is right, there is no room for the extra travel/stroke needed on a softer spring alone. What I want to know is if I can use a softer AND longer spring. Keep in mind coilover spring perches are adjustable so if I decrease this to factor in the added spring length, wouldn’t this put the spring rate in the same shock stroke range?

I read about Swift and all the great reviews. I’m pretty sure Swift and Hypercoil are the only two contenders should I go ahead with this. Actually the ebay genric are also contenders since they are so cheap :p. I actually sent Swift an email a few days ago with some questions on availability. It seems their catalog of 3” ID springs start at 12” length –that’s not going to work for me :(. The YS springs are 6.43” so I’d like 7” or 7.5” max. It seems the perch allows a tad more room but not 12”! I’m not sure why there’s 1.19” (this includes the .82 bump stop) of shock travel that’s not used at all so at the moment it leads me to think there is some wiggle room. I need to check with a shock manufacturer.

Thinking out loud, let’s see if we can reverse engineer this... for discussion. Say YS springs are indeed rated for 8kg/mm (447.979 lbs/in), and AFAIK, all true coilover systems use linear rated springs though I’ve seen comments and spring dynos that prove otherwise but that’s besides the point –we’ll assume YS are linear. Since the spring has a max theatrical travel of 3.55” at the point it binds. 3.55” x 447.979 lbs/in = 1590.324 lbs/in max that the YS spring can handle before it literally crashes onto itself. So the magic number for an equal comparison of a different spring to YS would be ~ 1590 lbs/in. I highly question that rear corner will ever hit that hard. Does this sound right? Of course we are talking absolutes and taking some assumptions. Someone check my logic/math. I feel like I missed something.
The idea is then to calculate the “new” spring to see if there’s enough travel to meet what the YS can handle. Some physics would help here to calculate what velocity this translates too.



Ref:
Spring dyno: Swift vs Vogtland
I had Voglands (they are a major general spring making house) before and they ride ok, very euro and not bad. This makes it seem like Swift would even be better! Less coils, consistent rate, more travel: win, win, win!
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpost.php?p=11987149&postcount=15


http://www.bestcoiloverguide.com/swift-springs-worth-it/
 
Lemme know how to take the other measurements. All i have is the tape measure though

Compared to BC coil...


 
Thanks for posting the pics!  I may/may not be seeing the measurements correctly due to shadow and angle which you took the pic. Could you also get measurements for the inner diameter of the top and bottom? Can you also take a pic with measurements (length, width) of the OE bump stops? If you have the stock shock lying around, could you also measure the length of the shaft fully compressed and decompressed (to see how much travel is available)? You should be able to press down on it pretty easily.

Mazda5 OEM Rear Spring
Coils Total: ~8.8
Coils Active: ~6.8
Coil Diameter: .5”
Length: ~13.375” (estimate)
ID Top: ??
ID Bottom: ??
Rate: Unknown
Material: Unknown


So, 8.8 coils x .5” diameter = 4.4” coil bind. Length 13.375” – 4.4” = 8.975” absolute max theoretical spring travel. 8.975” (stock) - 3.55” (YS) = 5.425” or about 61% difference in spring travel (boom03). BUT, things look a little different once we factor in sprung weight (or does it). This also does not consdier limitations from varying bump stop lengths. Nonetheless, realistically neither will every see full travel and one will have slightly less than the other.

*Fun math example using assumptions and magical mythical numbers pulled right out of the internet and some made-up :D

1) Internet comes up with 171 lbs/in for MS3 rear springs. I think this is about the ballpark for Mz5 OE springs. Since we are ballparking, let’s round up to 180 lbs/in. Using the 650lbs sprung weight, the corner would be 361% of the 180 lbs/in spring, so about -3.61”. At rest, the suspension would be 8.975 – 3.61= 5.36” available spring travel. The YS @ 447.979 lbs/in are left with 2.1”. The percentage difference in spring travel is…….. 61%! (boom03) So does this mean the YS are rated 447.979 lbs/in or ust luckily coincidence that the guessing 400 and 180 happen to work together?

2) Again using 180 lbs/in. 180 x 8.975” = 1615. The YS were calc at 3.55” x 447.979 lbs/in = 1590. Pretty close (boom01)



Ref:
3 (kg / mm) = 167.992244 pounds / in : 9.52" travel to offset 1600lbs
... = 180 (est.) pounds / in : 8.88" travel to offset 1600lbs (13.375” – 4.4” =8.975”)
4 (kg / mm) = 223.989658 pounds / in : 7.14" travel to offset 1600lbs
5 (kg / mm) = 279.987073 pounds / in : 5.71" travel to offset 1600lbs
6 (kg / mm) = 335.984488 pounds / in : 4.77" travel to offset 1600lbs
7 (kg / mm) = 391.981902 pounds / in : 4.08" travel to offset 1600lbs
8 (kg / mm) = 447.979317 pounds / in : 3.57" travel to offset 1600lbs


online calc tool:
http://oem.cadregister.com/asp/PPoW_Entry.asp?language=GB&company=10027133&elementid=45219003


It seems the BC rear springs have tapered ends (progressive?) while the YS are more cylindrical (linear) –just a guess based on the springs I’ve seen so far. The YS also have a higher spring diameter and the coils are wider (overall) yet rated slightly stiffer. The BC seem to have a tad more coil but no idea on length. I wonder if these factors just offset one another.?.

Can you confirm if the BC coil diameter is different in the top, middle, and bottom OR consistent throughout? Can you take measurements of the BC springs as well? Also, a pic of the rear perch and bump stop too?
 
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Thanks for posting the pics!  I may/may not be seeing the measurements correctly due to shadow and angle which you took the pic. Could you also get measurements for the inner diameter of the top and bottom? Can you also take a pic with measurements (length, width) of the OE bump stops? If you have the stock shock lying around, could you also measure the length of the shaft fully compressed and decompressed (to see how much travel is available)? You should be able to press down on it pretty easily.

It seems the BC rear springs have tapered ends (progressive?) while the YS are more cylindrical (linear) just a guess based on the springs Ive seen so far. The YS also have a higher spring diameter and the coils are wider (overall) yet rated slightly stiffer. The BC seem to have a tad more coil but no idea on length. I wonder if these factors just offset one another.?.

Can you confirm if the BC coil diameter is different in the top, middle, and bottom OR consistent throughout? Can you take measurements of the BC springs as well? Also, a pic of the rear perch and bump stop too?

So, don't have the OE bump stops anymore and i replaced the rear shocks with KYB's over a year ago.

I'm omw to get new tires mounted on the speed wheels and then picking up all new suspension bolts from the dealer. I'll pull the BC spring back out while i'm replacing that control arm bolt and measure everything fer ya
 
i didn't want you to think i forgot...i had a major setback today that has possibly changed my mind about replacing the old with the new bolts. So i start replacing the upper shock nuts with the new ones. "click click" torque down first nut. Go to torque down the 2nd nut and tragedy... I sheared the rear shock mount stud! I should've left well enough alone... :(

small as to not own your thread with GIANT pics. click for larger image.


I'm sorry bro but i'm not pulling the BC spring unless i have to. I'm scared to break anything else. I WILL measure the stock spring for you though. I don't even wanna look at the van right now so i'll post it for you tomorrow after i drill the stud out, etc...Sunday at the latest.

(gah) (gah) (gah)
 
Oh man, sorry to hear :(

I would not have asked if I knew you were all bolted up. You pic lead me to believe you still have parts in hand. Don't think about the BCs anymore, the OE spring info is helpful enough. I recall a member had the exact problem. IIRC, he drilled it out and replace the bolt but not sure exactly how he mounted everything back. Wish I can lend a hand...
 
that's exactly what i did



And here's what i think you were asking for OP
 
And here's what i think you were asking for OP
Thanks! Is that showing 4" to the inner coil and 4.5" to the outer coil? So that's 3.5" ID and 4.5 OD, correct? Also, is this top or bottom coil or are they the same diameter?


Thanks to your measurements, we can now confirm Yellowspeed COs indeed strive to reuse the OE perch. This differs from BC which tapers their spring to the more common 2.5” ID. From Phunky’s BC install, you need to add another perch to fit the BC springs. What does this mean? This leads me to believe you loose a tad of spring movement b/c the BC upper perch adds depth. I’m kinda torn. 2.5” ID springs are MUCH more common available in all sorts of lengths and rates. The 3” ID springs start much taller… I’m having a difficult time finding any that start at 7”. Maybe I should consider BC rear perches and go with 2.5” but that’s mo’money :(



EDIT: Thinking about it some more, that statement makes no sense. The added perch would only increase the overall height of the spring relative to the body. It would also change the stroke range it would be working in. It has NO impact on the BC springs itself. I wonder if this makes up for the dark range that’s missing.?. It makes more sense to me now and I can see why the general consensus say you can “slam” it more with YS (keep in mind we are only talking about the rears)! The front camber plate (in a square block instead of BC’s circle) also offers more camber range adjustment.


UPDATE: eibach now carry 3" ID springs in all shorts of length and rates, in par with 2.5" ID springs - WOOT!!
http://eibach.com/sites/eibach.com.m.../ERS_19_US.pdf

page 16+ (2.5")
page 24+ (3.0")
 
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Top and bottom are the same diameter.

I lined up the tape measure with the cm scale. I prefer the extra precision. I can redo it with the inches scale lined up instead if u like.
 
To answer my own question.

Conclusion
More questions than answers. With COs, there isn’t much as much free travel to work with. However, there seems to be about 1.1925” length of dark space that is physically impossible to reach. Is this necessary to prolog the shock from blowing? Why the aggressive bump stop? The reason I did all this is to see if I can 1) swap out for a lower spring rate, say 6kg/mm (335.984488 lbs/in). B/c of the lower rate, the forces at hwy speeds x weight would prob amplify what the shocks has to manage and need more “space” to work with. Do we have a physics major in the house? The question I’m not sure on is: can I use a longer 6kg/mm spring? It looks like I have free length and the ID of the spring is close to 3”, which is common. The sleeve seems to be able to accommodate the length since I’m not looking to slam it. Even an extra .5" would do wonders. I’m also thinking since the travel will be short, no matter what, how helpful would it be to mitigate the bump at full compression by using a longer and more progressive jounce bumper? This way, the progressive stop (rates in the hundreds of lbs/in) can help manage the compression along with the lower rated spring, sorta like a filler. http://fatcatmotorsports.com/FCM_app_guide.htm


Droop travel – doh! I was so stuck at looking and calculating bound/rebound that I totally forgot about drop travel. That means the dark space is cut in half, which leaves very little room for error. Figured this out when trying to figure out how to set the height of the rear shocks compared to the springs. This whole install has been a very good learning experience. I have a feeling this why a lot of people who have issue with premature blown rear shocks when using CO are not setting this correctly. It is a pain in the arse to figure out but there is mathematical way to it. Seems everyone on the internet says something along the line of some ratio between the two without ever explaining how/why (rolleyes).
 
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Bump vs Droop Balancing Act

Not sure I'll get any input here but here goes. Anyone know of a good technical forum where i can post this? I've put this out there on other forums but no responses. If you read this, hopefully this gives you food for thought... The one thing I took out of YS ownership is better understanding and appreciation of how this all works. I have to give some props to YS for a well thought out CO. Too bad they don't advertise b/c these would suite a number of people.


[The Setup]
My vehicle has a total weight of ~3500 lbs with a f/r 56/44 weight distribution, which would put it 1960 lbs front, divide by 2 = 980 lbs sprung weight per corner at rest. I don’t know the exact numbers but I would guestimate about 980 – 120 = 860 lbs un-sprung weight per corner at rest.

The coilover shocks are 33 way adjustable monotube cartages and has an internal bump stop build into the base. Set to the softest setting, I pressed the shaft all way the down and get a net shock travel value of ~3.5”. This is likely when it hits the bump stop so I would max it at 3.7”” before bad things happen…

The kit springs are 2.5” diameter, rated 448 lbs/in, and measure 7.125” length at rest with a coil bind value of ~3.15”. 7.125 - 3.15 = ~3.975” total max spring travel (likely ~3.7”?).


[Questions]
1) Is Bump or Droop more important for comfort? I’ve read that a good DD rate is 60% Bump / 40% Droop. Does that sound right?
2) Since the springs are 448 lbs/in and assuming the unspring weight is 860 lbs, does this mean at rest the spring has already lost (860/448 = 1.95”), 1.95” for droop travel?? I would only have 3.975-1.95= 2.025” of spring travel??
3) Since that shock only has 3.5” of travel, does this mean I would only have (3.5 – 1.95=1.45) 1.55” bump travel!?!? Am I looking at this right?
4) I image when at hwy speed and air pressure and down force in play, this would further compress both spring and shock travel down further by a little bit. Any I understating this correctly?
5) The standard kit spring seem to give me 60% Droop / 40% Bump.

Swift%20Eibach%20Springs_zpsi2iqcrwh.jpg

The kit spring’s numbers seem off for the front end weight of this car. This spring (3.975” travel) and shock (3.5” travel) combo ends up with about 60% of the shock travel lost to droop when it should be the other way around -from waht I read. Also, the 445 lbs/in spring rate x 1.58” remaining shock travel for bump = 708 lbs. This might explain why the front end crashes b/c the spring has to be rated higher or I need more travel. Is there any correlation between this number vs the car’s unsprung weight of 860lbs? I get the feeling these figures should match or exceed (if too much, would lead to harsh ride?). I need to take apart the stock spring to measure the ratio of shock travel vs spring travel to get a comparison. If someone has a front spring and stock shock apart, do let me know. In this instance, it seems it would benefit me to go up in spring rate (see green ones I’ve highlighted) since I'm limited in travel. It would be a separate discussion on whether or not the coilover shocks, set to stiffer setting, has the proper damping profile to handle a stiffer spring. It did not come with a shock dyno.

Appreciate any comment you can offer.
 
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Was Felix the anal one on "The Odd Couple"? Sorry, I couldn't help myself. I think Dave Coleman did a rather extensive story on droop travel in Sport Compact Car a number of years ago, might be worth looking for
 
I want to be a beliver (have cake and eat it too).


Dammit, I need to buy springs so I can put this s*** back together. It's a freaking tough decision... I was leaning towards eibach bc they are more affordable but I think i'm going with Swift @7", 560lbs. Need to order soon.


Tip: buy replacment dust boots cheap @ BC Racing. $5/ea, $16.10 shipped :D woot woot
 
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