How To: Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Install

i installed mine today but the air fuel only has one green light on the rich and i connected it to the first 02 sensor in the engine with the pink and blue wire...whats wrong?

Are you waiting for it to warm up. It will only work after a minute or so of driving..
 
i did wait for it to warm up....and i drove it today and no improvement this sucks i even researched it on the autometer website
 
Hey,

Just installed my air/fuel guage tonight along with some others. It is an autometer ultra lite 3 wire hookup

Red - +12v Keyed on
Black - Ground
Purple - Pink w/ Blue stripe right at ECU (see below)

I cut the wire in half, added my lead wire onto the firewall side and soldered those two together. Then I tinned the ECU side and then soldered the two halfs together. Covered it with a sleeve of heat shrink and I was done.

The gauge powers up with the car, it will float around stoich in the yellow range for a little bit and then begin to swing Rich to Lean after the sensor warms up. Everything is working perfect! Step on the gas and it will go rich, let off and it will go lean.

It is all about a good solid connection.

If you are experiencing a steady single green light it means you are not getting a signal to the purple wire. When I powered my gauge on without the purple connected that is what I got.

Best of luck to anyone else who tires, it is really a simple setup

Matt
 
Does anybody install A/F Gauge in Mazdaspeed3, i need some instructions, please..!(confused)
 
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sounds like the speed3 has a wideband sensor. you might need a different gauge to read its signals.
 
looking for a place to put the illumination wire other than to acc. i dnt want my gauge on when just listening to the radio
 
for everybody trying to find a switched power for their gauges, check the fuse box. i dont know why everybodys trying to tap into the ignition wire. get a test light and find a fuse that only works with the car being on, such as the fuse for your gauge cluster (which is where i have my radar detector hardwired with no problems) you could also use the room fuse (what my headunit is wired to, again no problems with switched power there)
also, its a lot simpler, pull out the fuse stick the wire in the power side of the fuses location, shove the fuse back in and look you have a fused, switched power.
 
Just installed mine this way. way too easy but I'm trying to figure out how to tap into my light relay so when ever I do turn on my headlights, my guages will too.

for everybody trying to find a switched power for their gauges, check the fuse box. i dont know why everybodys trying to tap into the ignition wire. get a test light and find a fuse that only works with the car being on, such as the fuse for your gauge cluster (which is where i have my radar detector hardwired with no problems) you could also use the room fuse (what my headunit is wired to, again no problems with switched power there)
also, its a lot simpler, pull out the fuse stick the wire in the power side of the fuses location, shove the fuse back in and look you have a fused, switched power.
 
i just installed a prosport a/f gauge and it sits at all the way lean and doesnt budge. before I connected the green wire to slot #60 it used to sit at all the way rich... everything else works fine with it as far as lights and opening ceremony....

any suggestions?
 
i just installed a prosport a/f gauge and it sits at all the way lean and doesnt budge. before I connected the green wire to slot #60 it used to sit at all the way rich... everything else works fine with it as far as lights and opening ceremony....

any suggestions?

You might want to try splicing into the air sensor in your exhaust manifold instead of pin #60. I spliced my air/fuel gauge into pin #60 and my gauge does not work at all(could be other problems), I am going to try and wire it that way my self an see if it works better.
 
You might want to try splicing into the air sensor in your exhaust manifold instead of pin #60. I spliced my air/fuel gauge into pin #60 and my gauge does not work at all(could be other problems), I am going to try and wire it that way my self an see if it works better.
i will mess around with it this weekend and let ya know how it goes and what i did. I was told by someone that if you touch the end of the sensor wire that the needle should jump around. makes for a good test to see if the gauge is good.
 
How do i install a TACHOMETER?

I been re-searching and it's V/W on a 2003 Mazda Protege.

Since I don't have a mazda protege manual I don't know where pin 48.

Any one can help me please. Pictures will help alot
 
Thanks for the great how to. Everything went perfectly and i did not have to spend an hour in the manual trying to figure this all out. Thanks again.

Some more info if you got the OBX 4-1 header...
I tried the first and the second o2's

First one bounces back and forth except when it is lean at a low rpm and WOT it is rich. In between it bounces a little but not too bad.

Second one with the fix (to eliminate the cell) it just reads lean but then you take out the fix and install it normally you get the cell.

So I just stuck with the first one until i buy a wideband and then i will install an new bung.
 
I got everything hooked up but nothing is on???

Where did you get your 12v from? It is either that or your ground most likley not being fully grounded. If you got a test metter hook it up and se what voltage you get on your hot wire and then you could check your resistance and see how good the ground is. Just a thought.
 
Thanks! ill check it out tomorrow. Also im getting a weird throttle response now. Its kinda like i have turbo... without the power. ill be WOT and the car would gradually move up in rpm. then all of a sudden it would be normal to redline. and im not getting any C.E.Ls. its weird.
 
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