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How much would you pay?
- Thread starter miroy72
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AWD or FWD?
try to get them to move to say, 200-300 over invoice... thats a reasonable price to ask for the car... its a win/win... the dealership still makes a slight profit (making it a price they can agree on) and you dont get ***** by the price of the vehicle.
try to get them to move to say, 200-300 over invoice... thats a reasonable price to ask for the car... its a win/win... the dealership still makes a slight profit (making it a price they can agree on) and you dont get ***** by the price of the vehicle.
why shoot for above invoice with a car with 400 miles on it? U nuts? your very best bet, is at least to start AT INVOICE OR BELOW, you may 1st get lucky, IF NOT then they will have to move to a figure around the invoice in the first place. STARTING HIGH is not a good idea with a dealer.
I would automatically hit them at 300 UNDER invoice and use the 400 miles as ur betting chip. If the salesman lets that car go AT invoice, you both made a deal.
I bought mine brandy new GT Actually, below invoice @28,500 w/bose n roof in Sept 06. Always, ALWAYS, start low, maybe even stupid low depending on the dealer. At invoice, they will still make money. Always buy at the end of the month, and be serious in your dealings - set your price, stick to it.
If they arent gonna give u a deal with basically a test-driven car, then take ur biz elsewhere and nab one at invoice price new. You can buy a 7 easily at invoice at dealerships, maybe even below.
not sure why people r telling u to offer money OVER invoice thats just not a good idea at all
I would automatically hit them at 300 UNDER invoice and use the 400 miles as ur betting chip. If the salesman lets that car go AT invoice, you both made a deal.
I bought mine brandy new GT Actually, below invoice @28,500 w/bose n roof in Sept 06. Always, ALWAYS, start low, maybe even stupid low depending on the dealer. At invoice, they will still make money. Always buy at the end of the month, and be serious in your dealings - set your price, stick to it.
If they arent gonna give u a deal with basically a test-driven car, then take ur biz elsewhere and nab one at invoice price new. You can buy a 7 easily at invoice at dealerships, maybe even below.
not sure why people r telling u to offer money OVER invoice thats just not a good idea at all
miroy72 said:Its a FWD - if the price for a brand new one is 24k, how much is this one worth?
keep in mind.. 400 miles does not classify the car as "used" so in reality its worth the same as one with 10 miles. What you work out pricewise is between the dealer and you.
Ill almost bet that the car was a dealer trade and isnt even from that dealership (and I could be wrong). check the window sticker.. at the top left it will say what dealership the car was shipped to. check and see if its the same dealership you are @. A dealer trade is just a "swap" of cars between dealerships when a customer wants a vehicle currently on another dealers lot.
I cant check rabbit @ the moment but she sounds about right in the invoice quote. find a figure that you can live with and work to that price.
Buy ur cars AT invoice price. Anything more is your loss and the dealers gain. call it what u will - but never settle for markup on a car. Even tho itll take time, you will find the right salesman who is willing to make a sale and move a car off the lot at your price.
offering money over invoice is like walking into a wholesale store and asking to pay more for the product ur buying.
Its worth invoice, not retail. and on a trade, and or sale - ull take even a bigger loss cuz u paid too much over the top
offering money over invoice is like walking into a wholesale store and asking to pay more for the product ur buying.
Its worth invoice, not retail. and on a trade, and or sale - ull take even a bigger loss cuz u paid too much over the top
I agree with you mostly Mikey... but I DO take other things into account.
For example... the dealer I bought from, there were VERY nice, easy to deal with, knowledgeable and friendly.
Even though the CLOSER Mazda dealer to me would give me the car for what seemed like several hundred dollars less, I found out they'd add a "prep" charge that the other dealer wasn't going to add. The salesman also came across as arrogant, unattentive and he was clearly sending me signals that I was wasting his time (trying to rush me).
When I asked him about the "prep" charge he acted surprised that I knew about it and then said "any dealer will charge you that" -- well that wasn't the truth. His "prep" charge would have driven the price up several hundred dollars over what dealership #1 was offering me.
Even if in the end if they HAD NOT charged me the prep fee, the difference was a few hundred dollars. I was willing to pay a bit more to the first dealership for a good experience and the valueable, reliable service I'd get in the future. That has, so far, panned out in my favor. The dealership has been amazing in addressing my concerns, any problems I've had and they've been extremely accommodating... all with a smile on their collective faces - from sales to parts to service... including looking at and working on my car the Friday afternoon before Christmas when they were in the middle of an x-mas party and had no cars scheduled for the remainder of the day.
And I put some value on all that. Might seem silly, and keep in mind I do haggle for a good price, but I also know the limits where you're crossing into pissing people off and becoming known as the "local pain in the ass" to a business that may be providing you services in the future. I also think the dealership deserves to make SOME money, along with the salesperson, for providing the service they do... as long as they are accommodating and professional.
For example... the dealer I bought from, there were VERY nice, easy to deal with, knowledgeable and friendly.
Even though the CLOSER Mazda dealer to me would give me the car for what seemed like several hundred dollars less, I found out they'd add a "prep" charge that the other dealer wasn't going to add. The salesman also came across as arrogant, unattentive and he was clearly sending me signals that I was wasting his time (trying to rush me).
When I asked him about the "prep" charge he acted surprised that I knew about it and then said "any dealer will charge you that" -- well that wasn't the truth. His "prep" charge would have driven the price up several hundred dollars over what dealership #1 was offering me.
Even if in the end if they HAD NOT charged me the prep fee, the difference was a few hundred dollars. I was willing to pay a bit more to the first dealership for a good experience and the valueable, reliable service I'd get in the future. That has, so far, panned out in my favor. The dealership has been amazing in addressing my concerns, any problems I've had and they've been extremely accommodating... all with a smile on their collective faces - from sales to parts to service... including looking at and working on my car the Friday afternoon before Christmas when they were in the middle of an x-mas party and had no cars scheduled for the remainder of the day.
And I put some value on all that. Might seem silly, and keep in mind I do haggle for a good price, but I also know the limits where you're crossing into pissing people off and becoming known as the "local pain in the ass" to a business that may be providing you services in the future. I also think the dealership deserves to make SOME money, along with the salesperson, for providing the service they do... as long as they are accommodating and professional.
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miroy72 said:Its a FWD - if the price for a brand new one is 24k, how much is this one worth?
My dealer here in Central Florida quoted me $300 below invoice on a zero mile GT. Plus tax, title, tag and a $600 dealer fee. He has 52 sevens in stock! Hope that helps. Regards, Ace
lazyace13 said:My dealer here in Central Florida quoted me $300 below invoice on a zero mile GT. Plus tax, title, tag and a $600 dealer fee. He has 52 sevens in stock! Hope that helps. Regards, Ace
thats why they did the car 300 below invoice... the dealer fee of 600 you just said is REDICULOUS. they basically sold the car to you for 300 over invoice... their dealer fee just comped back their losses.
you have to watch for that.
milhouse19
Member
When I was getting prices, I required every dealer to calculate the out the door price, including all taxes and fees and required it in writing (by email).
Worked out great since three dealers were undercutting each other.
Worked out great since three dealers were undercutting each other.
I did it with two dealers... and some through e-mail, some there. The final prices was negotiated over the phone. The sleezy guy SAID his price was "out the door" but it wasn't until I asked about his prep-fee that he did back-peddling.
His price was lower but I also know their service would have been sub-par... which was my point.
PS. Whenever I hear "I got it for X below invoice" I always wonder what that person thought "invoice" was or where they got the number from. Sleezy guy showed me what looked like an a dealer invoice for the car, but I know it wasn't... it was a sales tactic to make me think he was giving me a good price. I also always wonder what "fees" the dealership than charged (like "prep" fee, LOL).
Also, Invoice isn't ALWAYS the lowest price the dealer can sell for.
In my area, Invoice (with options) was $29,770 (CarsDirect) or $29,616 (Edmonds). I got the car for $29,940 +tax/title/plates - I was very happy with that.
His price was lower but I also know their service would have been sub-par... which was my point.
PS. Whenever I hear "I got it for X below invoice" I always wonder what that person thought "invoice" was or where they got the number from. Sleezy guy showed me what looked like an a dealer invoice for the car, but I know it wasn't... it was a sales tactic to make me think he was giving me a good price. I also always wonder what "fees" the dealership than charged (like "prep" fee, LOL).
Also, Invoice isn't ALWAYS the lowest price the dealer can sell for.
In my area, Invoice (with options) was $29,770 (CarsDirect) or $29,616 (Edmonds). I got the car for $29,940 +tax/title/plates - I was very happy with that.
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I had the unpleasant experience of selling new cars for a living in the early 80's. Invoice, tissue, white card price, floor plan, I'm not sure that anyone in sales or middle level management knew what a 1981 Honda Accord really cost to put on the show room floor . I do know that the owners were Harvard law grads, had rich and famous life styles, and paid us $50 a week plus commission. MartyD
spike blue
Member
- :
- 2007 mazda CX-7,Kia sephia 2006 Audi A4 Sline
i got mine here in south florida for 25,000 0 miles on it and sport with only the homelink mirror & 8 way power seat and 6cd changer!!!
dealers w/good stock are def letting the 7's go at invoice or lower. Which, is great if u buy the car or whatever, but, that only hurts the resale big time. I wish in some ways that the sale price was more like a Honda in terms of what ur going to pay over invoice, it just holds the overall value of the car higher. Seems like a majority of people are buying 7's well below sticker which is great, but in the long when i sell this thing, its going to hurt.
cruzdreamer
Member
- :
- Former owner of Mazda CX 7 GT Electric Blue
Buy it for below or at invoice. They will do it if they want to sell a car. Ball is in your court!!If not go somewhere else and get that deal. I had 2 dealers $500 below invoice.
Hi all, I'm thinking about leasing a CX-7 Touring AWD with the MOONROOF/BOSE/6CD CHANGER and the preferred equipment package for 27 months and 12,000 miles. Could anyone tell me what the Money factor and residuals are on this? And what would be a good price on the vehicle.
Thanks,
Sam
Thanks,
Sam
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