Help! MSP choking up

LzrBlu2003MSP

Member
:
2003.5 MazdaSpeed
Well here is my problem....
I put on these hard pipes with a Turbo XS BOV h34 that recirculates. I go out to test drive it and I can hear the BOV but when I drive the car going through the gears at about 4000 rpm on all gears it starts to jerk and feel like its going to stall. I went to make a U'ey and while I was sitting still the rpms shot up to 6000 without my foot on the gas and stayed there till I made my U'ey. Very weird stuff to me...I have enclosed pics of the install in case someone can notice something I left off. Take it easy on the mechanics terms also....I don't know too much. Thanks alot


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i dont think i could help but i was wonderin where exactly u have ur bov recirculating to? doesnt seem like its goin back into the intake?
 
Did you reset the ECU? (probably not going to solve the problem but could help)
 
Have you adjusted the BOV to the correct pressure?

Do you have a leak in the recirculation tube?

Is there a leak in the charge pipe, this will cause air to go into the engine that has not been accounted for by the MAF. (I had this happen to me).

Is the BOV mount leaking?
 
Does the BPV dump before or after the MAS??

Every time that valve opens it would stall the car out if not.

You might have to increase the resistance inside the BPV.

later...Brian
 
Few things that MAY help...
-try adjusting the BOV with the shims
-anyway to straighten out the recirc piping? i doubt it's a big deal, but any little bit could help at this point
-try the bov with it's own vac supply
 
You didn't install the injen at the same time did you? I can't see any mistakes you made in the pics, everything appears to be installed correctly. Reset your ECU, and let us know what happens. Give me some more details about what exactly the car is doing. What was your throttle position when it started to jerk? I really can't think of what would be causing this unless you did install the injen at the same time. Reset that ECU.
 
OK...here's the update
I went and put all the washers in the BOV (6 of them) and it seems to idle a little better. The one thing I noticed today is that it is blowing black gunk (fuel) out of the exhaust pipe.I also reset the ecu like everyone else said to do. Then I called the company I bought the pipes from (Extreme Speed) and the Head honcho said that I am running too rich from the fuel blowing out and that it sounds like I have a vaccum leak because it is stalling bad on me when I hit just about 4000 rpm and thats when the turbo kicks in. So I will be checking all the fittings later to look for a leak. Has anyone found anything that can manage fuel yet? Also if anyone can think of anything else to try, please post
 
I would put a small clamp on the vacuum line going into your BPV. Also, check all of your clamps on the piping couplers regularly, I have tightened mine down 3 times now because the silicone breaks in after awhile. Do you notice any drop in boost on your gauge when it happens??? If so, then check your connections at the turbo, and the throttle body for sure. The one at the bottom of the IC could be loose as well.
Although, it does sound like you are running way too rich from your description of the tailpipe, along with the bucking. Not sure, try checking those connectors though, and put that clamp on there.
 
LzrBlu2003MSP said:
OK...here's the update
I went and put all the washers in the BOV (6 of them) and it seems to idle a little better. The one thing I noticed today is that it is blowing black gunk (fuel) out of the exhaust pipe.I also reset the ecu like everyone else said to do. Then I called the company I bought the pipes from (Extreme Speed) and the Head honcho said that I am running too rich from the fuel blowing out and that it sounds like I have a vaccum leak because it is stalling bad on me when I hit just about 4000 rpm and thats when the turbo kicks in. So I will be checking all the fittings later to look for a leak. Has anyone found anything that can manage fuel yet? Also if anyone can think of anything else to try, please post

Here's a rule of thumb when testing the BPV.

At Idol it should stay completely closed but be easy to move. Take off your plumbing and run the car at idol. Do not rev the engine as you will stall the car if the BPV opens. If it doesn't stay closed after the 6 shims are in open the body and stretch the spring, start with no shims again..

later...Brian
 
Black Majik MSP said:
Joe P FPR is the 1st thing that comes to mind

Uhh.. that is NOT fuel management. it can help lean out the fuel a little bit, but its not what hes looking for.
So far, working applications are full standalone, like Haltech, or Greddy's Emanage.
 
Unfortunately, e-manage does not work.:( Full standalone, and the mythical MPI tuner that nobody will give any info about are the only options.
 
Yeah, I was really looking forward to that working out, but if you read turboge's post on christmas day, you will see that the PCM is negating his changes no matter what he does. Bummer huh???
 
505zoom said:
Yeah, I was really looking forward to that working out, but if you read turboge's post on christmas day, you will see that the PCM is negating his changes no matter what he does. Bummer huh???

yea just read that... sucks to hear it too...
Its bad enough the S-AFC wont work, you can get those for 125-175 bucks, and its all you really need to lean the fuel curve out a little on like every car but the MSP.
Now the GReddy emanage wont work either.
So basically, you have to go full engine management to do anything to the fuel curve, which is about the biggest bulls*** yet on our cars.
We have a rich fuel curve and we cant do s*** about it for less than a grand.

:bs:

:mad:
 

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