Maxx Mazda
Contributor
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- Stock P5
E6X Installation Guide BJ Protege
Nick Holinski
This guide will require you to have a fairly detailed understanding of first, how the Haltech works, and also how the FS' fuel and ignition systems function as they come from the factory. Please understand this is not "Haltech for Dummies" and you will need a good understanding of your car, as well as solid mechanical ability. If this isn't you, have a shop do this for you. This guide is designed to set you up running wasted spark sequential injection. I've spent a total of 3 years with the Haltech now, and learned lots about it. The manual is where I got all of my information, you will benefit from reading it in it's entirety.
Although there is a preset on the Haltech for the FS engine, it is reccomended that in addition to the Haltech and basic sensor pack, you also purchase the stepper motor for idle control, 3 bar MAP sensor, boost control solenoid, RA-10 reluctor adapter (for a much cleaner trigger signal, this makes initial setup and tuning FAR easier) as well as exhaust cam gear and cam position sensor (CMP sensor) from a 2001 Mazda 626. You will notice that this gear only has ONE home signalling device, instead of 3. I will show you how to set up idle control using the stock IAC valve, however the stepper motor is still reccomended. Obviously a wideband O2 sensor is a must, and you will retain ONE stock O2 sensor for the operation of the Haltech in closed loop mode. It is also reccomended that you have the Protege shop manual and wiring diagram. This will make your life much easier. Of course, any wires that are left open should be capped with heat shrink. I'm not going to tell you how to read a manual, you need to be familiar with wire colors (B/Y = black with yellow stripes for example.) Also, after cutting a wire, there are generally two sides. The harness side (out to the car or sensors) and the ECU side. Pretty self explanitory.
I reccomend solder and heat shrink for ALL electrical connections. Do not use crimp connectors! These come loose easily! Take your time and connect everything properly. Begin by disconnecting your battery! Then, select a location for the ECU. I mounted mine under the center console, forward of the cupholders. It fits well there, and is isolated from vibration. Also, it is easily grounded, and the PC comm cable can be run freely to a location of your choice. Next, install your intake temp and coolant temp sensors. I put the coolant temp sensor in the water neck near the stock sensor, and the intake temp sensor I put directly in the intake manifold. It's important to have it as close to the cylinder head as you can get it, to achieve the most accurate reading. (After any methanol sprayers, etc.) This would also be a good time to install a nipple for the Idle stepper motor in the manifold. You will need a second nipple PRIOR to the throttle body as well. (Once again, if you do not know how to do this, STOP and have a shop do it for you. I'm not going to show you how to remove / install the intake manifold!) Skip the last step if using the stock IAC valve. Next, mount your MAP sensor and boost control solenoid. I mounted both on the firewall, close to the intake manifold. Connect the vacuum lines to each as per the manual. Remove the passenger side kick panel and expose the stock ECU and harness. Run your Haltech free leads down to this area, this is where most of the focus will be. There is also a spot to run your wires to the engine bay once the time comes.
I can not stress enough how important it is that you understand the various inputs and outputs of the Haltech. I will show you how to run and tune the car with this manual, and briefly touch on some "special" features that can be utilized by the outputs, etc. but the Haltech manual is very detailed in this respect, and due to the differences of equipment on everyone's cars, it is impossible for me to guess if someone is using an output for air conditioning, or anti-lag and methanol injection control. This is why it is vital that you understand what you are doing BEFORE you begin. Once again, I can not stress enough how far PROPER PLANNING goes in this respect. Take notes, draw diagrams, do whatever it takes. On with the install:
Haltech Power:
We will begin wiring the Haltech ECU into the car. The stock ECU is going to be "taken out of the loop" so you will not be able to pass inspection if this matters to you, and you will have a CEL all the time, however I will show you how to eliminate this. The stock ECU will be retained for mundane functions, such as running the stock tachometer, water temp gauge, fuel gauge, alternator, etc. So far there is no way around this, unless you choose to go with a standalone dash of some sort.
Start by running your power, ground and ignition wires. I have a completely seperate fuse box in my car JUST for aftermarket equipment which has some battery hot wires and some ignition hot wires to choose from. I used this method, so that everything aftermarket can stay on its own protected circuit, but if you choose to go directly to the battery, run the +12V to the battery, the grey +12V IGN to the light blue wire in the steering column, and the ground to a good chassis ground. It goes without saying that these connections are extremely important, and you want the Haltech to have it's own dedicated source, not shared with anything. If you choose to use a different wire for the "switched 12V" make sure it has power while cranking. The blue wire in the column satisfies this. Please refer to your wiring diagram supplement for other possible colors and locations.
Clip ECU (pin 2) and cap both ends. This is the MIL (check engine light) output. The light will not come on with this wire clipped.
Fuel Pump:
You have two options for the fuel pump. You can let the stock ECU control it, or have the Haltech do it. There really isn't much benefit to either way, but I like having the Haltech do it all, plus you'll then know when the "barometric correction" has been completed before start. (See Haltech manual for explanation on this.)
Because the fuel pump request signals on bot the Haltech and stock ECU's are already the "switched ground" type (like all outputs on the Haltech) we don't need to use the Haltech supplied relay for the fuel pump. We simply need to take the Haltech's "pump request" wire and wire it in place of the stock "pump request" wire. To do this, cut the Haltech (BLK/YLW) wire (pin 33) and attach the ECU side to the harness side of the Stock (VLT) wire (pin 80.) That's it. You may remove the 20A fuel pump relay fuse supplied with the Haltech. Another benefit to this method is that because we haven't used the Haltech suppled relay, and have stuck with the stock relay, the jumper connection in the diagnostic port under the hood will continue to function normally, allowing us to run the fuel pump at any time we choose to bleed the system after changing injectors, etc. (Refer to the Mazda FSM for more information.)
Fuel Injectors:
On the Haltech injector harness, you'll see 5 wires. One is for injector +12V constant (RED/GRN) while the 4 others control the injectors themselves. The stock ECU works on the same principle, so we can use the stock Power to the injectors from the stock harness. This is powered by the main relay itself, so the stock ECU has no control over it. You may cap the (RED/GRN) wire on the Haltech. The other 4 wires are labeled INJ #1, INJ #2, etc. It's important to note that these are numbered in FIRING ORDER not the order of the injectors themselves. For this reason, double check all of your colors and pin locations against the following. Snip the stock ECU wires at pins 74, 75, 100, and 101. They are colored (BLK/YLW) (BLK/RED) (GRN/BLK) and (BLU/ORG) respectively. Cap the ECU ends.
All Haltech connections are made to the harness side on the stock wiring.
Connect Haltech (LT BLU) to the stock (BLK/RED) (pin 75) wire.
Connect Haltech (LAV/RED) to the stock (BLK/YLW) (pin 74) wire.
Connect Haltech (GRN/RED) to the stock (GRN/BLK) (pin 100) wire.
Connect Haltech (PIINK) to the stock (BLU/ORG) (pin 101) wire.
That's it for the injector harness.
Ignition:
The E6X only has the capability to drive two ignition outputs when used in a sequential injection setup on a 4 cylinder engine. For this reason, we will be running two coils on a waste-spark setup like stock.
Much like the injectors, the coils will be charged by the stock harness, and fired by the Haltech. We only need to use two of the wires from the ignition harness.
Connect Haltech (WHT/BLK) to the stock (WHT) (pin 52) wire.
Connect Haltech (LT GRN) to the stock (RED) (pin 26) wire.
That's all we need to do for the ignition.
Throttle Position:
Since the Haltech allows us to calibrate the TPS sensor input, we can use the stock signal coming from the stock TPS sensor. The TPS wire is (BRN/YLW) (pin 89) on the ECU. Snip it, and cap the ECU end.
Connect Haltech (WHT) to the stock (BRN/YLW) (pin 89) wire. The other two haltech wires in the TPS harness are not used, and may be terminated.
Misc. Sensors:
At this point, some wires need to be routed through the firewall grommet, into the engine bay. These wires will differ depending on any extra PWM outputs you may be using, or any accessories you are installing, however a few are required to be run regardless.
- Trigger Input loom
- MAP sensor loom
- Coolant temp loom
- Air temp loom
It is important to note which additional looms you may want to run into the engine bay, some may include:
- PWM outputs (boost controller, methanol injection, etc.)
- Idle speed motor loom
This is where proper planning is important. Know what you want to hook up, and where it's going. After all wires are run through the firewall, connect them to their various sensors as per the Haltech wiring diagram. Each loom is color coded to the plug that you build for it, it is very simple. Leave the Trigger Input loom open for now, we will get to it later.
Idle Speed:
There are three available methods for controlling idle speed. One, is to let the stock ECU continue to control it, in which case no action is required. The second, is to use the stock BAC (bypass air control) valve, and allow the Haltech to control it. The third (and reccomended) is to use the Haltech stepper motor for idle control. The last two are explained below:
Using stock BAC valve:
In this instance, you will need to use a PWM output to oscilate the solenoid, and can either power the solenoid via the stock ECU, or by using the +12V PWM output from the Haltech. Either option is acceptable. The IAC valve has two wires, (BRN) and (GRY) going to ECU pins 54, and 83 respectively. The brown wire provides the constant power, and it is left alone. The grey wire is the switched ground wire used to oscilate the solenoid to control your idle. Snip the (GRY) (pin 83) wire and cap the ECU end. Connect a PWM output wire to the grey wire, and take note of which output is used. You will set up that PWM output as a "BAC Valve" and set the period to 55ms for the stock Mazda solenoid. Then you can adjust your idle RPM settings etc within the idle setup. Alternatively, you may use the Haltech suppled +12V wire connected to the stock brown wire, if you wish for the Haltech to supply power to the solenoid, and not the stock ECU. Refer to your manual for further details.
Using Haltech 4 wire stepper motor:
The Haltech has a dedicated harness for the stepper motor, and the connector for the stepper motor includes a color coded wiring diagram, where the colors of the Haltech wires are simply matched up. The location of the motor and housing are of your choice. The input and output vacuum lines are connected to the suppled brass nipples that you installed earlier.
MAP Sensor:
The Haltech may be run off of it's own internal 1.5bar MAP sensor, however running an external 3bar sensor provides more headroom for higher boost levels, and a much faster response time since there is no long vacuum line to run inside the cabin to the ECU. Like the idle controller, the Haltech has a dedicated loom of 3 wires, color coded for the MAP sensor. Build your plug accordingly and connect. Refer to your manual for further details.
O2 Sensor:
This section pertains to the use of a stock narrowband sensor, used only for closed loop tuning. If you choose to attach a Wideband for closed loop tuning, be aware that this is considered a "waste" of the wideband's output. The stock narrowband sensors work great for controlling closed loop fuel mixtures.
The Haltech O2 loom has three wires. We are only concerned with (pin 2) the O2 signal wire. The stock ECU will be used to power and heat the stock O2 sensor. It is your choice if you want to use the signal from the stock primary or secondary O2 sensors. Both sensors are exactly the same. If one is used, the other may be removed completely.
Clip the stock ECU (PNK/BLU) wire (pin 60) for the primary O2 sensor, or the (YLW/BLU) wire (pin 35) for the secondary sensor. Cap the ECU ends, and connect the Haltech O2 Sensor wire (pin 2) to the harness side of the snipped wire.
In the O2 sensor setup page, set it as a narrowband sensor (0-1V) with the stoich voltage around 580mV. You will need to adjust this value for yourself! Each car is different, and even a change of 10mV can make a big difference. Of course if you did use a wideband output for this, set it to wideband and adjust the voltage accordingly. Refer to your manual for further details.
Spare A/D:
This is the spare Analog/Digital input. It is a simple 0-5V input, and may be used for anything from a second trim controller, to a wideband hookup for datalogging. I like using it for datalogging from my wideband. Simply hook your wideband's output into the "spare A/D" wire, and you will be able to see the output voltage and log it in real time. Refer to your manual for further details.
Coolant / Air Temp:
Covered previously. Self-explanitory installation and hookup.
Road Speed:
Generally this is not used. I have been unable to find a way to make the road speed signal work reliably with the Protege, using several sources of input. Cars with ABS seem to have a much harder time getting a good enough signal for the Haltech, as each wheel has its own individual speed sensor. Vehicles without ABS use a gear-driven sensor, and may have better results. The road speed input is simply for datalogging purposes, and serves no practical function on the E6X. On the E8 however, speed based boost control, etc is available.
Trim Input:
The trim input can be used with a Haltech trim knob to control a multitude of features, such as boost, fuel trim, ignition trim, etc. Installation is self explanitory, and setup is covered in detail in your manual.
Aux In:
This is covered in great detail in the manual, however I will explain in a later section how to setup the Haltech to control the Protege's Air Conditioning. I have used the Aux In for many features, including anti-lag, and a/c request. As always, you'll need to have done your homework and decided which of the multitude of choices you've opted to use your Aux In. for. As always, refer to your manual for details.
Trigger Input:
At this point, you should have the Haltech pretty much hooked up with the exception of this loom. As I mentioned previously, it is STRONGLY RECCOMENDED that you use the Haltech RA-10 reluctor adapter. This will save you a multitude of headaches down the road. The stock sensors are a reluctor type, and the RA-10 converts them to a hall effect signal. (Changing stock Analog signal to Digital.) The digital signal is not prone to interference or distortion like the stock analog signal. The RA-10 comes with its own instructions, which are very simple to follow, so I will not cover it's installation here. However, I will go over the "basic" installation, for those that choose to do so, however be aware this is not the preferred method, and may lead to problems with ignition and fuel delivery at high RPM's.
There are 4 wires contained in the shielded trigger input loom. Two grounds, a home, and a trigger. The trigger wire tells the ECU when the crank has passed its reference point, (this happens twice per revolution) and the home wire tells the ECU when the cams have passed their reference point. (This happens once per revolution.) It is reccomended that the sensors be shared and not completely hijacked, since we're using the stock ECU to run the alternator, or control idle or A/C, gauges, etc. All of the following connections will be taps into the existing wires.
We'll be dealing with two connections here. The home signal will come from the cam position sensor, and the trigger will come again from the crank position sensor. If you don't know where these are, or what they are, stop now, you're in over your head.
The CKP sensor (crank) has three wires, and the CMP (cam) sensor has two.
Tap the shielded (YLW) wire into the CKP (ORG/BLK) wire.
Tap the shielded (BLU) wire into the CKP (BLK) wire.
Tap the shielded (GRN) wire into the CMP (GRN) wire.
Tap the shielded (RED) wire into the CMP (BLU) wire.
If you're using the RA-10 as reccomended, here is the breakdown of the wires on the Protege.
CKP Sensor:
(ORG/BLK) = Trigger Signal
(BLK) = Trigger Ground
CMP Sensor:
(BLU) = Home Ground
(GRN) = Home signal
Wiring the RA-10 can't get much easier than that.
Additional Outputs:
The Haltech has a multitude of inputs and outputs, a few of which I will touch on here.
Anti-Lag:
You'll need to have the Aux In. line connected to a switch, which is then connected to a good ground. Whenever the switch is armed, as long as all of the anti-lag parameters are satisfied, your anti-lag system will be activated. Please note this also uses a PWM output, although there is no physical connection to any of the PWM wires. As always, refer to the Haltech manual for further details.
Cooling Fans:
The Protege has two fans. One is a cooling fan, the other is for A/C if your car is so equipped. I use both driven off one PWM output to cool the car even faster than just one fan alone. Remember, this is only activating the relay, so you're not pulling any current through the Haltech.
The cooling fan ECU pin is (RED/BLK) (pin 47) and the A/C fan is (GRN/WHT) (pin 45.) Cap the ECU ends of these wires, and connect both or just one to a PWM output wire. Then setup the PWM as a cooling fan, and set your desired temperatures. Guess what? Refer to the Haltech manual for further details.
Boost Control:
Can be used in conjunction with the trim knob for on the fly boost level adjustment, or used based on a preset map. Using the Haltech boost solenoid, connect a PWM output to the negative side, and the PWM +12V constant to the positive side. Instructions are included with the boost control solenoid.
Air Conditioning:
The Haltech requires the Aux In. as well as a PWM output. The Aux In. will be the A/C request, and the PWM output will be that A/C activation. It is possible to wire it up so it will perform just like factory. Connect the Aux In. wire to (GRN/BLK) (pin 41) and connect an available PWM output to (BLU/BLK) (pin 96.) Of course, make these connections at the harness side, and cap the ECU sides. Setup your PWM parameters to your specifications in the PWM setup menu.
Summary:
That pretty much takes care of the hardware side of things, re-install the stock ECU, run are wires neatly and out of the way. Double, even triple check all connections, make sure all connectors are plugged in properly, and everything is buttoned up. As a last step, re-connect the battery and wait a minute or so to make sure there are no strange noises or burning smells. If you're sure your car won't burn down, we can continue. The next section will cover initial power-up, and setup.
