H&R lowering springs
- Thread starter dmw
- Start date
Order them from Corksport! they have them in stock.
anyone installed them yet? I just got my set and waiting for the rain to stop before I install them.
they look like the ones on Laguna Seca's Cx5 pace car, blue springs! I'll post some pics and measurements from top lip to center hub before and after.
stock springs:
Front lip to center: 465mm
Rear lip to center: 480mm
H&R: tbd.....
they look like the ones on Laguna Seca's Cx5 pace car, blue springs! I'll post some pics and measurements from top lip to center hub before and after.
stock springs:
Front lip to center: 465mm
Rear lip to center: 480mm
H&R: tbd.....
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was referring to coilovers or sway bars and not just springs.
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- 2023 CX-5 Premium; 2018 Mazda 3 GT hatch
Well given the fact that there's a huge difference in ride height and suspension travel between the 3 and the CX-5 and that the CX-5 is a "clean-sheet" design...
Sorry, I failed to guess that, (since the thread was about lowering springs).
But as posted later the large differences in suspension travel, ride height, curb weight, unsprung weight make that unlikely.
Completely understand that. But with coilovers, changing a pair of springs can help accommodative to a heavier car. Plus changing a sway bar from say a mazdaspeed 6 could also potentially be a thicker bar then the cx5 currently has.
Reason I asked is this is how my 2004 Forester was, and I pretty much bolted all the 2005 STI parts onto it. The STI sway bars helped greatly on the Forester which was made more for comfort and reduced the rear end from coming loose.
Back on topic, the reason I asked was to see if the CX5 could of potentially just been a lifted Mazda3.
Fortunately it's not, engineering effort was for more thorough and intensive and CX-5 is first Mazda model with full suite of Skyactiv technology (including unique chassis).
oh well...broke down and bought the H&R springs. The standard height is just a tad taller then I'd like so I'm dropping it (sorta). I didn't look into the spec, but hope the spring rate is increased slightly to compensate as I'll be towing bikes (bicycles). haha!
I don't need the extra height and I have my fingers crossed to see if the MPG increases slightly. I'll throw up my alignment specs after it's done.
I don't need the extra height and I have my fingers crossed to see if the MPG increases slightly. I'll throw up my alignment specs after it's done.
Should look cool, realistically don't expect any measurable mileage increase.
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- 2023 CX-5 Premium; 2018 Mazda 3 GT hatch
Please do; that's my biggest concern. That and ride quality degradation.
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- 2023 CX-5 Premium; 2018 Mazda 3 GT hatch
When I talked to Corksport (total waste of time!) and H&R, neither one mentioned this kind of documentation. Although that's not what I was questioning. My concern is whether you can get the right numbers, whatever "right" may be, without additional add-ons (which may or not be availabe!).
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from my experience with springs, coilovers, and any other suspension mods, they do not provide alignment specifications. The main reason is it's personal preference if you want more turn in or less. Also how much wiggle in the steering wheel at freeway speeds.
All alignment shops will do are put the vehicle as close to factory specs as they can regardless of what you want. If you recommend or advise the shop you want something special they usually charge you extra.
My advise is to not worry about camber as the change in the suspension travel is minor (compared to a passenger car) and the biggest thing is the toe-in or toe-out is what causes premature tire wear. Make the front and rear wheels as close to 0 toe with you in the vehicle is the best to achieve the most MPG as well as give you a good balance handling. I was informed that Mazda likes to modify their toe a little hence the improvement in handling but also causes the tires to wear prematurely (This is my first mazda so going off of other people's input).
So in summary go toe 0 front and back, and keep your camber at -.75 to -1.5 is probably the most ideal. My experience is primary in suspension modifications on a Subaru STI, S2K CR, S14, AE86, and many other cars i've owned in the past.
All alignment shops will do are put the vehicle as close to factory specs as they can regardless of what you want. If you recommend or advise the shop you want something special they usually charge you extra.
My advise is to not worry about camber as the change in the suspension travel is minor (compared to a passenger car) and the biggest thing is the toe-in or toe-out is what causes premature tire wear. Make the front and rear wheels as close to 0 toe with you in the vehicle is the best to achieve the most MPG as well as give you a good balance handling. I was informed that Mazda likes to modify their toe a little hence the improvement in handling but also causes the tires to wear prematurely (This is my first mazda so going off of other people's input).
So in summary go toe 0 front and back, and keep your camber at -.75 to -1.5 is probably the most ideal. My experience is primary in suspension modifications on a Subaru STI, S2K CR, S14, AE86, and many other cars i've owned in the past.
