GT25R Real Potential and Capabilities

[Alejo_NIN]

i'm with you too
i believe that some things you just cna't do by yourself
nbot everyone is a TIG welder, master automotive electrician or master mechanic.
but at the same time, not everyone has money to pay someone to do the job. Luckily, i've never had to pay anyone to fix my car, EVER.
Some people do, if you got the money why not pay someone who actually knows what they're doing and do a better job that maybe you can do?

Also, not everyone has the time to do it....
canadian and people form the north might not even have the WEATHER to do it. i don't see myself swapping an engine on -10 degree weather!

i'm lucky to live in miami, and when it rains i get pissed, but then think how blessed i am that it is just rain and not snow.

I love mechanics, that's the reason why i eat threads in msprotege, to learn...i learn and learn and learn...some people don't have the time or mental capacity to learn mechanics, it ain't for everyone.

so saying that you lost respect just because you dind't do it is not right.
i think you should still have respect because someone was up to aking his car quick by any means nesessary even if it meant paying someone to do it.

you smoke weed, and just because you don't grow it yourself doesn't mean you suck,..

you just don't want to go thru the hassle of having an illegal lab in your house to smoke something when you can pay 5 bucks and be done with it.

i'm done.

I kinda disagree. I have no problem paying someone to do the work...to me, I'm paying for his expertise and tools. Two important things I don't have....but I truly enjoy learning and always stick around to lend a hand.

 

[MSP608]

other than a tig welded bov flange i feel really good about saying ive done all the work myself with the help of my brother. i wouldnt feel right about calling something my own that a shop has built nearly half of.

 

[Kansei]

yeah, welding is all I haven't done.. including turboing my car, clutch install, timing belt, cams, suspension, etc.

oh and mounting/balancing tires.

 

[Alejo_NIN]

so i guess it isn't your car then...
because basically...MAZDA built it for you..

hmm..
interesting

other than a tig welded bov flange i feel really good about saying ive done all the work myself with the help of my brother. i wouldnt feel right about calling something my own that a shop has built nearly half of.

 

[fr0st]

heres a link for info about the Gt2554

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT25/GT2554R_471171_3.htm

Fr0st

 

[MSP608]

so i guess it isn't your car then...
because basically...MAZDA built it for you..

hmm..
interesting

actually i bought all the pieces from mazda and assembled my car ground up

 

[Alejo_NIN]

you da mang!!

keep it up

actually i bought all the pieces from mazda and assembled my car ground up

 

[yashooa]

hang on a sec. your pushin 15 psi on a stock bottom end!!!!!!!!! thats freakin awesome, i wish i had the balls to do that lol

Well now I am running about 17PSI with the upgraded turbo but before this I ran mostly 13PSI with runs up to 15PSI. I did have a few mods and I had another way to work in case I nuked it.
I have not and will not hammer the throttle at low RPM in high gear. Like for instance 40MPH in 5th at WOT and 13PSI like the one dumbass did he had a video of it no less and then complained about it blowing (boom05) Mind you he was going uphill, with passengers and it rattled like hell for a good 8-10 seconds audibly before it went. All he had to do was let the **** off the throttle.
You have to be careful and drive where the car can take it and don't boost where it can't.
Now on the highway going 70MPH I will smack in the ass and hit 15PSI in 5TH.
I am not saying everyone can get away with what I have and now with the J&S, and the MPI I know right where I need to add fuel, pull timing etc. but the J&S is far better at pulling timing so I let it do its job.
Anyway if you can't get around with your MSP down then stay under 10PSI. Heck mine was down for 3 months while I ripped apart everything but the engine apart.

 

[Mazdaspeed2oo35]

i dunno about you, but 8.3:1 seems a little low....granted it sounds like you will prolly be adding much larger amounts of boost in the future. as for me, 8.5:1cr is what i went with and i still have great low end power. regardless of the fact that i'm running open downpipe and i'm in boost at 1400 rpms and at a full boost by 1800(first)...open downpipe ftw!

anyway, if you really wanna make some power, why not go with a GT30? It would give you alot more room for improvement in the future i.e. lots of boost. And honestly, the GT30's spool up time compared to that of the GT28RS's wouldn't be that far apart....but if you really wanna get crazy, since you have a built bottom end, add a 50 wet shot of nitrous, which is really small, and you will be absolutely golden. The nitrous will help to spool the turbo up quicker, plus also cool the intake charge even more after the intercooler. Built bottom end + big turbo + nitrous + a good tune = huge amounts of reliable power if you know what you're doing. And the reliability would be in terms of the engine....the transmission and axels are another story.

Keep it up though, i'm right there with you in the never ending quest for more power.....Come spring time, i'm gonna have a new surprise for everyone...and dyno results that'll make you want to cream yourself.(nana) hehehe

The reason I lower it the compression was because at such of high boost i was taking the car almost everyday 26.3 psi spike, i blew the Mazdaspeed Head Gasket, and i'm planing of boosting really high to acomplish the over 400whp and the car was overheating. so we had to change the gasket and i putted a thicker and better Headgasket from COMETIC also added bigger injectors, 760cc to me exact, Hiboost FMIC, and Protegegarage low temp thermostat. and a new and more aggresive air and fuel curves to the haltech e6x, also retarding the timing at really high boost to prevent detonation Obvoiously pretty soon i'll be putting a big ass turbo, GT2871R or a GT3071R like you said with Hiboost Turbo manifold, Tial External Wastegate, Custom made Downpipe, 3.5" Exhaust. and Racing Tranny Internals and Drive shaft , that TBK has Developed for this cars. probably and a FMIC Spray setup up for WOT cooling, and might dump some small nos kit to the engine .. don't really know yet. but theres' one thing for sure i'll be breaking the 400whp barrier for sure, and kicking some mayor ass ... a few days ago, i raced and 2006 Mazeratti V8 with 400hp if not mistaken, we raced rolling, and by the time we hit 3rd gear i was in front of him by a full car and living him behind more and more. so for the people that says 271whp and 279wpt aint s*** you really have to drive it and believe this little turbos even killing them at such of high boost, and taking them over their limists are capable of giving a real good surprise to those who thinks are unbeateable, or just thinks owning a 80k car makes them fast and furious enough to laugh at any person in this case that owns a mazda protege like me with some desent numbers and got wooped by a 20k Mazda........ after the race this dude just close his windows and kept going... I loved that race. that day i really realise that i'll never change my 20k mazda for any other car. probably at the end even loosing this guy end up with a bad ass mazzerati and my self with a mazda..

 

[Brian MP5T]

The GT-25 is so ineffectient past 16 Psi that you will actually loose HP due to heating. No to mentuion that the center cart will fail fast and need to be replaced.

 

[yashooa]

The GT-25 is so ineffectient past 16 Psi that you will actually loose HP due to heating. No to mentuion that the center cart will fail fast and need to be replaced.

Yep 15PSI is where I put it stock but now it is good for more
because it is a FRANKEN-TURBO!
MUHAAHAA!
If you let it breath, add a nice SMIC/FMIC and add a good turbo back exhaust the stock turbo can be a great little street pusher (drive)

One note though I know that Discreet Speed pushed his stocker up to 18PSI while running with paint thinner in the tank. He did this for a solid year, pounding the heck out of it until he burned a ring.
After that he went ******* APESHIT and had all kinds of custom made stuff, tubular manifold, huge ass turbo etc.

 

[avarela86]

Yashooa...How much was it for Nick to do his upgrade? What exactly did he do? I want to actually go with a SMALLER turbo. Something that responds faster for street driving. I have a 28RS and have been thinking once I build it to go with maybe a smaller exhaust housing or something. Any thoughts?

 

[Alejo_NIN]

you can always compensate the low end torque with NOS

 

[avarela86]

^ My nitrous is only for the intercooler! I want the response to be faster.

 

[Brian MP5T]

^^^ CO2 is more effective at that..

 

[Alejo_NIN]

i want NOS so that i can have the sticker

 

[Mazdaspeed2oo35]

I haven't notice any loose of any low end torque by lower the compression like you people are saying, last dyno results from TBK was 271whp and 279wpt my s*** pulls hard ass hell from the begining to the end. After i saw the last Dyno sheet the only thing have change is the shifting point. Before i used to shift all the way in 7k, now i know that all the HP and Torque I have it's until 5,500 Rpm so. I do my shifting at 5,800 in every gear and i don't loose any power, after 5,800 rpm the hp starts decreasing. people keep saying this turbo it's not eficient passing 15 psi. well problably logic sense and commun sense says it, but most of the time theory can't beat the practice. in this case you have to try it like me to see if is not efficient. one more time when I press the gass pedal all the way down lets say 1st gear, the turbo kicks in like at 2k rpm, the boost only goes up to 10 psi, when i shift to 2nd gear the boost starts increasing 10, 13, 15,17,19, 21, 23, 25, 26.3 psi, the psi in every gear its progressive, then shift to 3rd gear, the psi slighty decreases, but once again the progressive increasing begings and like this all the way to 5th gear, after all the gears shifting in the final run in 5th gear does the same thing, goes all the way to proggressively to 26.3 psi and slowly when it finishes pushing all those psi, beging the drecreasing point of the psi. and goes back down,where the turbo can maintain the real psi was made off 16 PSI all the way, when it's really cold the weather like a few days ago in here in miami, i was holding 17, 18. on 106 octane fuel, regular wheather and a hottie day 16 psi all day long, after spiking 26.3 psi. so my main reason to spike so high it's to gain instant power since at a long run the turbo can only blow a constant Power of 16 PSI on Premium gasoline and hottie day. so if you are racing someone with a little more PSI than you and more power than you, you have no chance. most of the people out there with SRT-4's, EVO's, STI's are running the same way. they are boosting so feaking high, all of them i've seem were pasing 23 psi but the reality its that they are trully boosting 17-18 psi so why including my self are doing this ? well its like having a 35 or 40 shot of nos. it helps you between all gears what your going to loose in the real top end... Alejo_NIN has driven my car several times, probably he can explain more what i'm talking about. I've try all of the posible setups with the EBC. Boosting from the begining to the end 16 PSI. not a single psi more of a spike, and the car runs like s***. i feel no power. no pulling comparing to the setup i just explained, spiking to the max flow capacity of the turbo for just a real short period of time it's not inefficient since it goes back down to where it is efficient ,these way the car feels out of hand, you have to hold the steering wheel hard with both of your hands, and just let one hand go just for shifting. the s*** goes to the sides even with the LSD. i've try all of the setups no spiking at all, holding from begining to end 16 psi feels like nothing when you preggressively boost 26.3 psi and then back down to 16 psi. as i said in my last post, i've beat a 400hp mazeratti the way i have the car runing now. probably i'll break the turbo in a period of time, i know i have that risk, but it's been 6 months or so that i've been doing this with no problems, no shaft play, or oil leaks. anyways when i did my engine i took my turbo to a turbo repairing place and i rebuild it, everything it's new. seals etc. anyways i'm putting a bigger turbo in a few weeks, it's not that i'm staying the way i am killing this little demon child turbo like i'm doing...

 

[otmsp]

i want NOS so that i can have the sticker

My car its faster cause I got 2 stickers....TURBO and NOS.

 

[Little Beavis]

I think the turbo upgrade from Nick was $400-500. It is a great option as you keep the small turbo spoolup and run well. I put out 264/264 at 12 psi. My car pulls rather well with a solid 12 psi - I'm not convinced that it can run much better. . .it can barely keep the tires from spinning now without any overboost regardless of the duration. Our cars are much lighter than some of the competition listed. . .so getting near 300 whp is a pretty big deal - but putting it to the ground and going forward is a whole different (and bigger issue).

 

[Mazdaspeed2oo35]

I think the turbo upgrade from Nick was $400-500. It is a great option as you keep the small turbo spoolup and run well. I put out 264/264 at 12 psi. My car pulls rather well with a solid 12 psi - I'm not convinced that it can run much better. . .it can barely keep the tires from spinning now without any overboost regardless of the duration. Our cars are much lighter than some of the competition listed. . .so getting near 300 whp is a pretty big deal - but putting it to the ground and going forward is a whole different (and bigger issue).

i get your point about traction , what rims sizes are you runing ? i'am runing bigger and heavier. RX-8 rims 18x8 with Nankang Sport NS-II 215/35/18 tires. i have no traction problem at all. also i took the rear awr motor mount out, i was having wheel hop and no traction at all, it might sound weird but true, also i broke my tranny 3erd gear most likely because of the rear motor mount. i only have the front awr mount on it. when you have both mounts and all around bushings you are passing all the stress to the tranny causing internal damage.my car have more of a hell traction and no wheel hop at all since i change the rear mout..