Group Buy: 505 Intake Manifold Round 2

[Jaleik]

Now a proper bump is in order.. painted yet?

 

[civickilla03]

"Just got mine in the mail, first look, thought it was awesome, welds look great in person, mine is uncoated so I'm hitting it with some polish just to brighten things up a little. Then things got bad. Went to install it, noticed where the EGR hole was drilled through the back of the mani there was some loose alum just ready to fly into my motor on first start up. Took a file and hit it off. Then I got to install the TB on the manifold. Threaded holes in the manifold didnt line up. Most I could get was 3 out of 4. Drilled out my throttle body and got it to go on. Then I put it on the head, and the TB hits the brake line coming out of the top of the master cylinder. WTF?! when you pay almost $900 for something, you would think it is going to be a direct bolt on. Pretty frustrated right now..."

from my brother (justanothermp5)

 

[Spiced MSP]

ouch, that makes me nervous as hell now

 

[2.0t03speed]

"Just got mine in the mail, first look, thought it was awesome, welds look great in person, mine is uncoated so I'm hitting it with some polish just to brighten things up a little. Then things got bad. Went to install it, noticed where the EGR hole was drilled through the back of the mani there was some loose alum just ready to fly into my motor on first start up. Took a file and hit it off. Then I got to install the TB on the manifold. Threaded holes in the manifold didnt line up. Most I could get was 3 out of 4. Drilled out my throttle body and got it to go on. Then I put it on the head, and the TB hits the brake line coming out of the top of the master cylinder. WTF?! when you pay almost $900 for something, you would think it is going to be a direct bolt on. Pretty frustrated right now..."

from my brother (justanothermp5)

The holes on the the tb is a known thing look at the install I instructions from the first round. Also can you get me a picture of what line its hitting?

 

[2.0t03speed]

nevermind I know what line you are talking about I looked at my original install pictures and can see how close the tb wheel is to that line.

 

[civickilla03]

The holes on the the tb is a known thing look at the install I instructions from the first round. Also can you get me a picture of what line its hitting?

"Apparently not, since I was not aware of it. I bent the line out of the way to clear the throttle. then I went to go put on the fuel rail, apparently this manifold isnt compatible with the stock rail....the lines go right in front of the throttle body and the brackets hit the main chamber of the manifold. Luckily I have a perrin rail, unluckily, I dont have any fittings or lines for it. So i guess the car will sit until I get them. Pretty disappointing." -Justanothermp5

EDIT: I see on the original thread its supposed to work with the stock rail. Anybody want to let me know what kind of sorcery I need to perform to get everything to clear?

 

[2.0t03speed]

as far as the lines go i routed mine underneath of the throttle body. i ran the stock rail daily for almost a year before i got my perrin rail so yes the stock rail works. From what i remember i think i slightly bent the hard return line coming off of the manifold down just a hair so i could get clip the return line on it. As for the top tabs on the stock fuel rail i ran with them on for a while but eventually i just cut the top ones off.

 

[2.0t03speed]

also here is the install guide since it seems it wasn't provided.

Tools Needed:

Ratchet
Swivel extension
3" extension
10, 12, 14 mm sockets
12mm gearwrench
Large flathead screwdriver (EGR manis only)
Channel lock pliers (EGR manis only)
Power drill with x/x bit (?)
Hacksaw
Loctite
RTV
Teflon tape

Other Parts Needed:

New gaskets
2.5" 45* silicone coupler with t-bolts
Stock manifold hardware/odds&ends

Everything else is included with your new manifold, including all washers, fittings, hoses, etc.


1. Remove Your Stock Manifold

Rather than reinvent the wheel here for the stock manifold removal, please see post #16 in the following thread for that:

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123615890

Placing CLEAN rags in each head port to keep out any and all debris while we work is a good idea.

Also, go ahead and remove the stock lower brace that was underneath the manifold. Doing this makes removing a stuck oil filter a breeze, because it opens up enough room to attack the filter with large channel locks. (alright)

Lastly, disconnecting the stock EGR hose from the stock intake manifold can be a real b****. If you are having trouble, removing the large coolant lines from the back of the waterneck area can help immensely.



2. EGR Hose

The new hose will take the same path as the stock one, so we need to get it out of there. Go ahead and remove it.

Bend the new EGR hose to the proper shape. Try to match the stock one as close as possible.

(Insert pic)

Route the new hose from the exhaust manifold area, up through the waterneck area, towards the intake manifold. This part requires EXTREME care because the hose will get very hot. I can not stress this enough. MAKE SURE that the new hose isn't touching ANY vacuum/coolant lines or wires. Use a flathead screwdriver to help bend the hose if one or more of the bends aren't clearing a line.

The pictures show some of the key points that you need to look out for, and how to route the hose. Double check this again after the new manifold is completely installed in case the hose gets moved at all.

d) Hook up the exhaust manifold side using the channel locks.


3. Fuel Rail


Mount your fuel rail / injector assembly on the new manifold. Use 2 of your stock black plastic spacers, 2 of the stock fuel rail bolts, 2 of the provided larger washers, and 2 of the provided 12mm nuts.

Do not fully tighten it down yet.

Make sure the injector tips are fully seated in their counterbores. If the hard plastic outer ring on any of the tip O-rings breaks, remove any pieces of it. The O-ring itself is fine with the hard plastic outer ring completely removed... I ran the proto with all 4 like that for almost a year. No problems. If none of them crack, which will probably be the case, even better. All depends on how brittle yours became over time in the giant oven that we all call a engine bay.

With the injectors fully seated, grab the engine flange and fuel rail in one hand. Squeeze them together while you tighten the rail mounting bolts. Snug them down enough so they will not move, but not so much that you crack the spacers. Although not completely necessary, you can loctite the nuts if you want.

Wiggle each injector and make sure they are all snug. You don't want any leaks here.

4. Throttle Body

Remove the TB studs from the stock manifold and transfer them over to the new one. Test the TB for fitment. If it is too tight for the TB to slide on, take the power drill and slightly bore out the holes on the TB itself. This is not hard to do with the x/x size drillbit, and you are barely removing any material.

The TB should slide right on now, and you can go ahead and bolt it down. Do not forget the new gasket!

5. Clean up the head surface

Pretty straightforward here. Make sure you get ANY old RTV or pieces of gasket off of the head. We need a perfectly flat and clean surface to get a good seal. Don't let any debris enter the head!



6. Mount the New Manifold (no, not that kind of mounting!) (evil)

RTV the gasket, and place it RTV-side-out on the head. Place the new intake manifold on there, holding back any and all hoses while you do it.

Tighten all of the mounting bolts, which are now MUCH easier to access with the new manifold. The outermost ones can be a bit tricky, so I took some pics of how I got at those. Most of the other ones are best attacked from the bottom with the gearwrench. (yes)

It is a good idea at this point to hook up the wire harnesses that have gotten disconnected.

7. Fuel Lines

Hook up the feed and return fuel lines. Nothing has changed from stock for these so you should be able to hook them up exactly reverse of how you disconnected them. The new TB position can make the routing a little tricky, but there is plenty of slack in the Perrin hose so nearly all of you shouldn't have any issues. If you are running a stock rail with stock hoses and are running into length issues, get a couple feet of fuel hose and make a new one.



8. IC Pipe

If your IC pipe makes a bend right before the TB and then utilizes a straight coupler, you will need to chop this section off with the hacksaw. Remove the pipe from the car and make the cut. Some of you higher boost guys will want to beadroll the end for peace of mind.

If your pipe uses a 90* coupler for the top bend, all you have to do is swap the 90* for the new 45* and you're all set.

9. Throttle Cable Bracket

You need to remove the 2 10mm bolts and black cable bracket from your stock manifold, and bolt it to the new one.

Use the provided small washers in a stack to shorten the upper bolt for the short hole.

Use the provided 10mm nut on the backside of the slotted hole.

Snug them both down for now, we will come back to them in the final step.

Hook up the throttle cable.

10. EGR Hose 2

This is easiest from underneath the car, but you can also do it from the top if you have good blind feel. Hook the IM side of the EGR hose up to the fitting on the bottom of the manifold. Tighten it down fully with the channel locks.

Take your EGR valve from the stock manifold and bolt it onto the flange like in the picture. Do not forget the small metal gasket here... just reuse the one you already have.

(Insert pic)



11. Vac Lines

Take the provided brass fittings and teflon tape them. Screw them into their respective ports. Route your hoses however you like. Everyone's setup is going to be a little different here, and mine are all different from stock anyway, so I am not going to go into a ton of detail about this part. Make it as nice and neat as you can and don't forget to hook anything up.

Use the provided short rubber hose for the PCV line like shown. Trim it if needed.

(Insert pic)



12. Tuning, Adjustments, Misc.

Plug in your VICS/VTCS solenoids and ziptie them somewhere. I hooked mine up underneath the manifold and ziptied them to the runners. You are kinda limited in what you can do with them because of how short the wires are... so just tie them back securely out of view, wherever you can.

Hook up any other electronic harnesses that you haven't hooked back up yet.

Reconnect the battery.

Fire up the car and listen for leaks. If you have a leak, spray some carb cleaner in bursts, along the junctions that might be leaking. Around the TB->manifold flange, across the top of the manifold->engine flange, on the injector tips, or on the EGR block. Do this while the car is idling. You will notice a distinct change in idle when you spray the spot that is leaking.

Hopefully you are leak free without any fuss. Once you are, adjust the throttle cable tension while the car is still running. Loosen both bracket bolts, and pivot the bracket until the tension is good. Too tight and your idle RPM's will be too high. Too loose and your pedal response will have some play.

Once you find the sweetspot, snug down the slotted one first, and then loctite the shorty in place. Be gentle with it, it is just a few threads of aluminum.

Loctite the nut on the slotted one, tighten it down, and you're all set.

Lower your boost controller to it's lowest setting!


13. Go give her a rip and enjoy! (rockon)

Monitor the WOT AFR very closely with a wideband and be careful with the boost levels. Make tuning adjustments as needed and always error on the rich side. I will not be responsible for any damage to your motor that arises from improper tuning, so play it safe and be careful. The car will be breathing a lot more up top now and you will need to add fuel to compensate. The ECU will take care of it up to a point, but if you already have a freeflowing setup to start with, this manifold is going to lean it out a little up top.

 

[civickilla03]

Well that was helpful, apparently my hardware was just left out of the box. I was wondering why he didn't include the 2 nuts for the fuel rail and the nut/washers for the throttle cable. I found nuts that will work already so that wasnt really a big deal, gonna go out and attempt to figure out the fuel rail situation once the sun comes up

 

[2.0t03speed]

Well that was helpful, apparently my hardware was just left out of the box. I was wondering why he didn't include the 2 nuts for the fuel rail and the nut/washers for the throttle cable. I found nuts that will work already so that wasnt really a big deal, gonna go out and attempt to figure out the fuel rail situation once the sun comes up

yea man if you have any questions give me a call or text i asked scmp3 to shoot you my number last night.

 

[mazdaspeedp]

Bump for update

 

[civickilla03]

"Got it figured out, had to bend the rail where it connects to the rubber line on the drivers side slightly, bent the brake line out of the way, drilled the throttle body holes bigger, and put a vacuum hose cut in half in-between the manifold and the upper fuel rail brackets. Also had to use zip ties to get the PCV to seat on the valve cover all the way, not sure how else to run the hose to the port on top of the manifold, with the included line being so short" _Justanothermp5

 

[Spiced MSP]

the final stretch

 

[505zoom]

Ryan - Thanks for helping out here and calling me to relay info while I was away from the computer.

Simon - I am very sorry your install didn't go as smooth as you/I hoped. I just looked and dammit... I still have 15 of the hardware packs sitting here. 100% my fault there and I have no excuse at all. Very sorry about that. It was also completely my fault that the EGR had shavings in it. I was told that the manifolds were totally de-burred and did not check yours over properly before it went out. Again, I have no excuse and should have caught that. As for everything else, I am glad you were able to get it in there and hope you are out enjoying it now.


Everyone - The little things like bending the brake/fuel lines may or may not happen to you. The test fit I did showed no problems on the brake line, but there are slight differences from car to car and some people had to move the line a little on the first batch. Drilling the TB holes had already been done on mine for the first batch, and that is why I didn't even think to mention it this time... mine slid right on during the test fit. The Perrin rail is definitely the way to go (with or without my manifold), but there are at least 6 people now running with the stock rail and my manifold. The lines that (might) need to be bent can be done by hand, and the bending will not hurt anything. I will also inspect the other 14 closer to make sure there are no loose burrs anywhere.

As for the update, I called the coater this morning and they are not ready. He mentioned that since it was 5 colors this time and blah blah.... I told him to get it figured out pronto and call me when they are ready. If that doesn't happen this week, I'll be going over his head to the owner on Friday and will get him to push this thing through. I don't like things rushed, but my patience is not infinite either. Time to get these things home. (rockon)

 

[505zoom]

I will also get the instructions cleaned up a little and PM it to all of you.

 

[Spiced MSP]

thanks for the update. Also, I just moved to a new place and just updated my address through paypal

 

[hdiddy27]

Yeah I've dealt with powdercoaters before and there is no reason why we should be going on the fourth week now regardless of how many colors they are doing. Especially if they told you no more than two weeks.

 

[mazdaspeedp]

So what day do u think they will go out? And can u just ship a printed version of instructions along with the intake?

 

[hdiddy27]

So what day do u think they will go out? And can u just ship a printed version of instructions along with the intake?

He was under the assumption that they were suppose to be in our hands already. Now we are at the mercy of the powder coasters.

 

[mazdaspeedp]

Bump for powdercoat update?