Greddy BOV w/ NO Stalling

ok so i finally have my fmic and greddy type s installed. this thread saved me from stalling (thanks tx). but my revs still dip quite a bit. should i adjust the spring even tighter then? i have only 2.5/3 threads on the tip of my screw on the bov and you said you had 4. im getting turkey louder than ever before which is ok i guess. i just dont want to dip so badly. should i just keep screwing? im almost out of thread..........
also, this is making me run rich as f*ck! any way to lean it out (im not tuned nor can i afford engine management right now)? im running open exhaust and all of a sudden i backfire like crazy!
 
MP3Architect said:
ok so i finally have my fmic and greddy type s installed. this thread saved me from stalling (thanks tx). but my revs still dip quite a bit. should i adjust the spring even tighter then? i have only 2.5/3 threads on the tip of my screw on the bov and you said you had 4. im getting turkey louder than ever before which is ok i guess. i just dont want to dip so badly. should i just keep screwing? im almost out of thread..........
also, this is making me run rich as f*ck! any way to lean it out (im not tuned nor can i afford engine management right now)? im running open exhaust and all of a sudden i backfire like crazy!

Don't even bother venting the greddy. If you don't care about having turkey why even vent, all you are doing is causing more problems, unless you move your maf. Your rpm's will always dip somewhat, you run rich as hell between shifts and waste gas.

There really is no benefit to venting.

But if you want to keep doing it go for it.

I had it set up for a while where i was getting no turkey at all and very little rpm dipage. You just have to play with it enough and find the right spot on the adjustment screw. It took me a while.

I love the greddy sound so much better than the turkey. If you can't get rid of the turkey by fine tuning the greddy type s then its not even worth venting.
 
MP3Architect said:
ok so i finally have my fmic and greddy type s installed. this thread saved me from stalling (thanks tx). but my revs still dip quite a bit. should i adjust the spring even tighter then? i have only 2.5/3 threads on the tip of my screw on the bov and you said you had 4. im getting turkey louder than ever before which is ok i guess. i just dont want to dip so badly. should i just keep screwing? im almost out of thread..........
also, this is making me run rich as f*ck! any way to lean it out (im not tuned nor can i afford engine management right now)? im running open exhaust and all of a sudden i backfire like crazy!


For running rich: All you can do is recirculate some of that air. Either go full re-circ with the greddy, or do the dual valve set up like others here. You'dd still run super rich at full throttle till you get some ems. Your BOV won't really effect that, only between shifts.

Sounds to me like you don't have a strong enough vacume source. Are you runnign of the brake booster line, or the stock line? Is anything T'd off your line? If you're getting turkey it's cause the valve isn't opening soon enough, if you're getting RPM dips it's cause the valve isn't closing soon enough. Sounds like you need a stronger vac source to get it to open quicker then re-adjust your valve spring so the dipping stops. My car will dip down to 1500 rpms really fast, then drop slow till about 7-900 where it sits like normal 99% of the time I push in the clutch.
 
i have an injen cai, and am otherwise stock, is there a way to move my maf and run dual setup if i just bought a greddy type s?
 
PlatinumMSP said:
i have an injen cai, and am otherwise stock, is there a way to move my maf and run dual setup if i just bought a greddy type s?



why would you want to move the maf and run a dual setup?
 
i was under the impression that it would help with the stalling issue, maybe i'm wrong, why would you do it in the first place?
 
yeah exactly, my maf is in the stock position with my injen cai, I was wonderin if could just buy a greddy type s and relocate my maf and run dual setup
 
you dont need to run a dual set up if you relocate your maf. all you do is relocate your maf and run vent to air. no by pass valve neccesary
 
MP3Architect said:
you dont need to run a dual set up if you relocate your maf. all you do is relocate your maf and run vent to air. no by pass valve neccesary

nice, how do i do that with stock pipes?
 
I have the AEM CAI, and will be installing a hiboost fmic with greddy type rs bov this weekend. Any help as far as what i should do with regards to the bov please let me know, should i try just running it open? and just test it then see what happens?
 
zzMSP03.5 said:
I have the AEM CAI, and will be installing a hiboost fmic with greddy type rs bov this weekend. Any help as far as what i should do with regards to the bov please let me know, should i try just running it open? and just test it then see what happens?
you can always just try it out. but just give yourself enough time to be able to relocate the maf or have the tools to recirculate ready just in case you have stalling issues. maybe you'll get lucky. good luck with the install!!
 
Ok I have a question. I currently have the apexr1 recirculating kit with the greddy rs bov on it. Im also running hardpipes, im just trying to figure out which pipe i want to weld the bov to. I think recirculating is the best for the car and I dont mind the turkey. Should I just weld the bov to the hot pipe and keep it recirculated or should i weld it to the cold pipe near the TB and run a bpv also (dual setup)
 
ok i have everything installed i was able to relocated the maf the maf is before the bov... the only way it will work without stalling is with the bov set to hard, i am guessing that if i move the maf on the other side of the bov (closer to the intake mani) i can open up the bov more without haveing to worry about stalling??? is this true??? if so i will be doing it soon.

thanks for the info guys... and btw the car runs great right now
 
I have an Ion Performance FMIC with hard piping , Injen CAI , and ApexR1 recirculating system with Greedy type S BOV . What is the best way to get rid of the Turkey sound without dipping or stalling ? Do I need to have my BOV welded directly to the hard pipes or continue to use the recirculating system ?
 
if i weld the BOV directly to the hard pipe and vent into the air do i still need to run the BPV or reciculate in any way
 
BlueBeast22 said:
Ok I have a question. I currently have the apexr1 recirculating kit with the greddy rs bov on it. Im also running hardpipes, im just trying to figure out which pipe i want to weld the bov to. I think recirculating is the best for the car and I dont mind the turkey. Should I just weld the bov to the hot pipe and keep it recirculated or should i weld it to the cold pipe near the TB and run a bpv also (dual setup)

If you are going to re-circulate you don't need your stock valve any more. i would put the BOV as close to the turbo on the hot pipe as possible. Many people believe the cold pipe is better, but the BOV is designed to prevent damage to the turbo, so having it on the hot pipe makes the most sense.

also if you wanted to re-locate your MAF to the cold side you could then vent with no issues at all (if you BOV is welded to the hot side before the MAF)

zzMSP03.5 said:
ok i have everything installed i was able to relocated the maf the maf is before the bov... the only way it will work without stalling is with the bov set to hard, i am guessing that if i move the maf on the other side of the bov (closer to the intake mani) i can open up the bov more without haveing to worry about stalling??? is this true??? if so i will be doing it soon.

thanks for the info guys... and btw the car runs great right now

If you move the AMF to after the BOV you will have no stalling issues at all, no matter what you BOV is set to. Moving the MAF to after the BOV means it only reads air that has allready passed the BOV. So when you BOV open and let's air out, it hasn't passed the maf and the maf doesn't know it missing - hense no stalling.

fastmazda1 said:
I have an Ion Performance FMIC with hard piping , Injen CAI , and ApexR1 recirculating system with Greedy type S BOV . What is the best way to get rid of the Turkey sound without dipping or stalling ? Do I need to have my BOV welded directly to the hard pipes or continue to use the recirculating system ?

If you are recirculatin you should be able to just loosen the type s up A LOT to eliminate the stalling. No need to keep it tight if all the escaping air never leaves the system. I ran mine recirculating with the valve set very loose and the boost at 10psi and it still did not leak. No stalling or turkey present at all.

fastmazda1 said:
if i weld the BOV directly to the hard pipe and vent into the air do i still need to run the BPV or reciculate in any way

If you keep your MAF in it's current location you may still get a bit of turkey or stalling. It's very difficult to eliminate both completly. If you want to completly remove both you'll need to recirculate at least some of the air. Either hook up your stock BPV or recirculate all the greddy air.

If you move the MAF to after the BOV it won't register any vented air and you can elminate both stalling and compressor surge no problem.
 
So how is it all these people are having problems with there bov? I got the hardpipes from ********** with the greddy rs and no turkey sound or car stalling ever? Are you guys doing a whole different setup? My bov just whistles after if blows off sometimes but you just tighten it to get rid of that and it doesnt stall when it does that! I just dont like how its not that loud i need more boost!
 

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