Greddy BOV w/ NO Stalling

sorry guys no camera any more new yrs eve accident...... but the BOV is on the IC to TB pipe and the port is pointed at angle to the back of the engine and up toward the hood if you can visualize it i know a pic would help but all I can do now is describe it the best I can
 
hmmm okay sot he location is good. You are running a dual setup?

only other thing I can think of is adjusting/tuning the Greddy BOV and make sure the vacumn line is good.

Also you may want to try the second nibble...I dont know what its for but I think its for another vacumn sourse to help open the valve...not sure...I would look it up.
 
yeah I'm running a dual setup, there is no second nipple on the greddy rs and I only get the turkey when at full boost and I go to shift and Turkey...pshhhhhhhhh, I bought some new vacc lines today , and Is it cool to use the brake booster line for that?? does it affect braking at all???
 
LAZERBLU2003.5 said:
yeah I'm running a dual setup, there is no second nipple on the greddy rs and I only get the turkey when at full boost and I go to shift and Turkey...pshhhhhhhhh, I bought some new vacc lines today , and Is it cool to use the brake booster line for that?? does it affect braking at all???

I have never noticed any effects of putting the BOV vac lines on the BB line. I have my BOV and my BPV tapped into that line, and it works great.

Here is a crude diagram of how mine is set up:

Vacuum%20diagram.jpg
 
LAZERBLU2003.5 said:
would it affect the sound if I had it pointed the other way?

Next time I take the car out of the garage I'll flip my BOV around and see if it changes the sound any for ya.

LAZERBLU2003.5 said:
sweet set up by the way it looks really good!

Thanks bud, just wait about 2 weeks and you will see the illness.:) I'm gonna be really cleaning up my bay here soon.
 
thats cool I' ll play around with it a little...... ( the BOV i mean), I just want to get the nice clean PSHHHHHH without the turkey...
 
I looked at the Bov today and the little nipple that the vac line goes on was loose, could that be a reason for the bov not to function properly??
 
LAZERBLU2003.5 said:
would it affect the sound if I had it pointed the other way?

It won't effect the type of sound, but it may effect how loud you hear it. I've had my greddy facing both ways on my current set up (when I was venting). It was loud both ways, but you could really hear it better when I had it facing the driver's side. Especially when there was another car or a wall right there, then at least to me it sounded loud as hell.

YOu said you were runnign your BOV off a non dedicated vacume line (you're sharing it with somethign else). If so, this is a definate factor in your problem. You need a strong vacume source to open the Type S properly and your type RS I think has a stiffer spring, meaning an even stronger vac source would be necessary.

I would follow 505's recommendation and run a dedicated vacume line off the Brake Booster Line. I did it myself. The line is a good source of vacume cause it is never under use when in boost, and you're not usually in boost when breaking. Plus it's a very strong vac source which can be used for several things. Go to autozone and pick up a variety pac of vacume Ts. I think the brake booster line is 5/8" but am not positive. If you don't want to use that one, there is a nipple on the bottom of your stock intercooler. You could run a vacume line for your gauge to that, and tie your BOV line into your original gauge line.

Also, if the nipple on your BOV is loose as in brooken this is definatly a problem. It needs to be airtight for the vacume pressure to open the valve. If you have a cracked nipple or a non airtight connection you'll get a vac leak at you BOV whenever it tries to go off.
 
If you are getting turkey at all, it's cause your valve spring is too tight. Start loosening it till you loose the turkey. If you can't loosen it enough it is because the spring is just too tight in the RS model. It might loosen up over time.
 
I tried that and If I loosen it too much it will stall if I rev it up, after I tightened the nippple on the BOV it worked but when I get in to first start driving it won't work but after I boost a few times then it starts working properly, I'm thinking definitley I need a new vac source.
 
Put a Greddy Type S on my car tonight, and did the 5 thread count thing and it seems to be ok so far. I have stalled a couple times but thats b.c I forgot and coasted to a light in neutral after letting it blow off. I just have to remember to downshift before coming to a stop. I am pretty happy with it so far but its only been a couple hours lol
 
I'm running the Turbo XS RFL non recirculating valve, venting direct to atmosphere, and it works great. Only running at 9psi, too. All you have to do is set the spring real tight, where it will only blow off at or near 9 psi. That way, when toting around town, you wont blow-off at all, only under full throttle full boost. No stall ever :)
 
My car has bad stalling issues. The thing has literally shut off about 5-7 times in the two months that I have had my Perrin SRI. In addition to this the RPMS drop low enough to turn some of the dash lights on, on average about once or twice every trip that I take in my car. I currently have the Perrin SRI with a turbohoses filter. This is a very large filter with an aluminum funnel on the bottom of the filter to reduce turbulence. I drilled a hole in the aluminum part and put in my stock gasket to house my cars temperature sensor. That filter is connected to my MAF sensor, which is connected to my Perrin SRI. The SRI does have the elbow bend that is supposed to direct the re-circulating air from the MSPs BPV. While I had just this set up my car stalled. So, I figured that I would get the turbohoses hard pipes with a Greddy Type-RS BOV. My rational for this was that the Greddy BOV could release most of the extra boost into the atmosphere and my cars original BOV could re-circulate a smaller amount of air and not disrupt the reading on the MAF sensor. I have been trying to tune my BOV the past few days to see if I could eliminate the problem but so far I have not achieved any success at all. I have had the valve as tight as it can go to as loose as it can go with out whistling, and everywhere in between. The hard pipes, the SRI, and the turbohoses filter are the extent of my current engine mods. I will be getting CustomMSPs bar and plate SMIC next week. At this point, I think that my issue extend from the Perrin SRI, but if anyone thinks otherwise please let me know. Thanks in advance.
 

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