glyph's Haltech E6X log...

[glyph]

Thanks for all the info. I bought the Haltech already set up for a protege from HiBoost TS (Juan). I did everything per the instructions, and after reviewing the service manual, the pins I used for the haltech weren't the pins for the ac relay (96) or the cooling fan (47). I am rarely 100% sure of anything. However, on my side is the fact that there have been no problems with the haltech, and I checked all the wiring against the wiring diagram I bought for my protege to make sure all of it lined up. Further, the only pins I used from the PCM were for the injectors, coil triggers, TPS sensor, and the two "memory" wires to avoid CELs

I have checked all the sensors and all the plugs and I can't find anything loose or not plugged in.

I did find the leak in one of the AC pipes, so that could explain the AC issue. But would the AC switch light come on if it was low on refrigerant?

 

[glyph]

Another issue, I have seen as high as 900 degree spikes on my EGT when test driving, though I haven't seen that high again since i have done more mapping. What is normally a safe EGT temp limit?

 

[MPNick]

Another issue, I have seen as high as 900 degree spikes on my EGT when test driving, though I haven't seen that high again since i have done more mapping. What is normally a safe EGT temp limit?

900 on a turbo car is cold. My guess would be do much fuel. If the timing was late[a lot of retard] you should see higher temps. I only things is you do not feel power under boost, that tells me to much timing retard. What do the plugs look like? What heat range? What gap?

 

[TurfBurn]

900 on a turbo car is cold. My guess would be do much fuel. If the timing was late[a lot of retard] you should see higher temps. I only things is you do not feel power under boost, that tells me to much timing retard. What do the plugs look like? What heat range? What gap?

900C is cold??? If i'm beating the car senseless I'm lucky to see 800C in worst conditions...

 

[BlkZoomZoom]

Also depends alot on where the egt is located.

 

[TurfBurn]

Also depends alot on where the egt is located.

Yep, and timing certainly makes a hug diff (as does AFR of course) pretty wide range as to what is "normal"

 

[MPNick]

900C is cold??? If i'm beating the car senseless I'm lucky to see 800C in worst conditions...

I am talking 900F not 900C.

Most turbo cars will run better around 1,200 to 1,400F street. 1,400 to 1,600F track.

 

[MPNick]

900C is cold??? If i'm beating the car senseless I'm lucky to see 800C in worst conditions...

Should be in the turbo exhaust housing right after the manifold.

 

[Lil Freek]

Brian MP5T's car was running at 1400-1500F when I was driving it... but he's got the EGT right in the exh. mani. and it's all wrapped in header wrap.

 

[TurfBurn]

Should be in the turbo exhaust housing right after the manifold.

Terry put mine in the #1 runner about 3 inches from the head... not ideal... but I'm not going to waste money changing it...

 

[TurfBurn]

I am talking 900F not 900C.

Most turbo cars will run better around 1,200 to 1,400F street. 1,400 to 1,600F track.

that makes a lot more sense... I average around 700C usually. Which is 1300F.

 

[Lil Freek]

sorry to derail.. but where IS ideal for the EGT?
i was thinking of putting it in the J-pipe

 

[jrodhotrod]

Subscribes... Good info, I have learned more about the Haltech from these logs then I could have hoped to elsewhere.

 

[glyph]

900 degree Celsius = 1652 degree Fahrenheit. That's what I spiked to. I have the EGT probe about 6" down the down pipe from the turbo. The original MAM manifold doesn't leave much room for the EGT. I believe there is a picture of it in my install thread...

One pic of it, doesn't help much with the location: http://www.jonathan.allain.com/update14/egtprobe.jpg
Another shot from the underside:
http://www.jonathan.allain.com/update14/turbobottom.jpg

 

[MPNick]

900 degree Celsius = 1652 degree Fahrenheit. That's what I spiked to. I have the EGT probe about 6" down the down pipe from the turbo. The original MAM manifold doesn't leave much room for the EGT. I believe there is a picture of it in my install thread...

One pic of it, doesn't help much with the location: http://www.jonathan.allain.com/update14/egtprobe.jpg
Another shot from the underside:
http://www.jonathan.allain.com/update14/turbobottom.jpg

I should move the EGT to the inlet of the exhaust manifold if you can. It may be even hotter there. What is the AFR? How light is the timing curve?

 

[glyph]

After much more tuning, I haven't seen spikes over 800C and the average temps have dropped much lower, like between 400 and 700 for the most part when driving.

Here is a shot of my fuel map. I haven't done any timing adjustment yet. This is the standard ignition map pre-loaded with the .

Btw, I have done some electrical checks, and found that both fan motors work when power is applied, both relays function according the book. When I apply power to the cooling fan relay socket pins, the cooling fan starts. When I apply power to the condenser fan relay socket pins, it sounds like the AC clutch is engaging, but the fan doesn't come on. I guess one of those wires goes from the relay to the fan, and the other to the AC clutch. All the fuses check out as well. I will be checking out the ECU pins that go to the fans and AC in a few moments.

 

[glyph]

Oh, I can definitely use some help on the ignition timing. I am not sure what exactly my goals are there, nor what benchmarks I use to determine whether my timing adjustments are effective.

I have been tuning the fuel maps with the goal of 12.0 AFR on my PLX m-300.

 

[Bigg Tim]

So I have mine 1" away from the turbo exhaust outlet, like the instructions say. (Nick, that's off the cast 90 on the back side of the turbo) I usually see 1000f or so on the highway, is that okay?

 

[glyph]

Ok, the cooling fan is now working. I have no idea why, but it is. I check voltages and continuity everywhere, and everything checked out. The AC system still doesn't work. When I click the AC switch, the light comes on, but the voltages don't change at the pins to the ECU like they are supposed to, pins 41 and 96 for me. I don't know if that is because of the leak, and therefore no pressure, or what. It's idling now, and the temps are all good, and the cooling fan comes on and off like it's supposed to.

I took a risk with the placement of the EGT probe being a little further down than it should, but I don't think the temp difference will be that much between 1" from the turbo and 6". I know it's not the best set up, but it shouldn't be too much of a factor. Am I wrong?

Tomorrow I will get the system charged and see what happens. In the meantime, I will take the car for another test drive and see what occurs.

 

[glyph]

I am thinking the cooling fan is working again because I disconnected and reseated the ECU harness. I also made sure it was screwed down all the way. So TurfBurn was right. It was an ECU thing (I think).