Fuel Cut or Possibly a Bad Fuel Pump.

AUTOTECH it is, looks like i found a local source as well which is kinda nice. $399 for the rebuild kit..... looks to be the going rate, anybody got a source that is cheaper?
 
AUTOTECH it is, looks like i found a local source as well which is kinda nice. $399 for the rebuild kit..... looks to be the going rate, anybody got a source that is cheaper?
OEM pump from a wrecked one,
from lkq for example

323-50258 Used Sugg. Retail: $130.08 Avail. For Zip: YES
FUEL PUMP 2007 to 2009 Pump Assembly; Speed3 (turbo)

just sayin,... since it works fine when it works
 
i thought about getting another oem pump but with my currnet mods it would be nice to have an upgraded pump with a little extra psi. especially if i go further with mods, ill have the pump part covered.
 
Does this sound like one of the pumps? They are the first thing I thought of, but the problem went away for the time being, which I wouldn't expect from them.
Left for work this morning and after a couple of blocks going fairly easy, the car still warming up in a neighborhood with kids, it bucked. Not stumbled, it bucked. Let up on the gas, gently pressed down and it seemed okay. Turned out that as long as I pressed very gently on the accelerator and didn't hit 4000 rpm at any rate of acceleration, I didn't get the bucking. So I babied it to work, figuring I'd see if there were any codes during lunch (I don't own a scanning tool so the shop would have to read it for me). On the way I stopped at a store and when I came out the car felt different, so I took a chance and got on it a little and lo and behold the thing is back to normal. Anybody ever experience this? Only mods are Forge BPV and an MSCAI.
 
sounds like water got on the MAF. Happened to me a few times with injen CAI. Rain heavily that night or anything?
 
It was drizzling this morning, but nothing bad. I've driven in a lot worse with no problem. Be weird to suddenly need to put a rainsock on the thing.
 
that sounds reasonable, the underhood warmth dried it up while he was shopping
When I stopped and there wasn't cool air blowing on it anymore the underhood heat was able to dry it? Sounds reasonable, but I don't understand why it would suddenly do this under conditions that are no worse than I've seen before and even less generally wet. The only thing that I can think of is that I have been backing into the driveway lately and that would make the slope of the piping go towards the maf instead of away while it was parked. Could moisture have puddled in the piping instead of draining down and when I started the car got splashed/sucked up into the sensor? I really like good reasons for odd behavior, although I suppose I might never get one for this.
 
When I stopped and there wasn't cool air blowing on it anymore the underhood heat was able to dry it? Sounds reasonable, but I don't understand why it would suddenly do this under conditions that are no worse than I've seen before and even less generally wet. The only thing that I can think of is that I have been backing into the driveway lately and that would make the slope of the piping go towards the maf instead of away while it was parked. Could moisture have puddled in the piping instead of draining down and when I started the car got splashed/sucked up into the sensor? I really like good reasons for odd behavior, although I suppose I might never get one for this.
if it was a wet maf, I would think more along a condensate path than a splash
 
ok, so i found a braqnd new, new version PTP internals kit for $250. so im going that route. ill probably post up pictures during the install to help furture members with the same questions.
 
The reverse (safety) torx is a T-25 according to Autotech's info sheet. My pump just took a dump after 61,000 miles, so I ordered Autotech internals from CTS Turbo. Price is $360 shipped which I consider fair for the reputation of Autotech and of that particular vendor.
 

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The reverse (safety) torx is a T-25 according to Autotech's info sheet. My pump just took a dump after 61,000 miles, so I ordered Autotech internals from CTS Turbo. Price is $360 shipped which I consider fair for the reputation of Autotech and of that particular vendor.
geez, what is this a contagious disease?
how did it go? slow drizzle of max pressure at WOT, or did it fail outright?
 
So I just did the ptp internals upgrade on my fuel pump, took 2-1/2 hours from hood open to hood closed. Not a bad job to do. I've got 33 miles on the break in so far and all looks good.
 
geez, what is this a contagious disease?
how did it go? slow drizzle of max pressure at WOT, or did it fail outright?

What I was seeing when data logging was that under maximum load at around 4,000 rpm, fuel rail pressure that had been up in the 1600-1700 psi range would show up on a later log as being in the 1500-1600 range. Then on a later log weeks later it was then down in the 1400's and giving me cause for concern. Then a few weeks ago, I saw two logs back to back that showed a transient drop for about one second at the same 4,000 rpm max load WOT down to 1100.

On every log the pump would recover quickly back to 1700 once the load started to decrease as rpm went on up. AFR's were staying rich, but that drop in pressure, especially under WOT and maximum load at that rpm, all the way down to 1100 psi, even if just for one second on the log, was a sure indicator to me that the pump was getting too much wear between its internal piston and cylinder/sleeve and was going to fail.

I'm in the break in period on the new pump, having just installed it two days ago. One careful test log showed that with the Autotech internals installed, the pump is capable of just over 2100 psi. However, I don't think my current setup can even make use of pressure that high. LOL.

One thing I did notice is that not only is pressure higher than stock with these internals, but the size of the piston and cylinder assembly is considerably larger than the stock pieces they replace. That means that with each stroke of the cam greater volume of fuel is beind delivered than stock. So, it is not only greater pressure but also greater volume.

BTW: on my post above regarding the safety torx T-25 - that is for a different purpose - to get to some other internal parts inside the pump if you do a complete rebuild. To remove the three external bolts that hold the pump to the cylinder head you need a "female" torx in size E-8. That is essential to the upgrade process. Doing the complete rebuild, including cleaning out all internal orifaces, etc. is optional. That is where the safety T-25 would be required. That is a T-25 with a tiny hole in the middle that has to fit over a protrusion. To simply replace the piston and cylinder the only special tool not typically in most people's hand tools would be the E-8 socket.
 
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that is correct the E-8 Torx Socket is the only special tool needed. 17mm 18mm and 19mm open box wrench are the other tools needed...... oh and a small hammer to tap the shaft out of the retainer.
on the stock pump internals it did show signs of wear on the shaft, and i did find a small amount of sluge between the collar and fuel pump internal houseing. cleaning is essential before you reinstall the new parts and lube everything with oil. im 51 miles into the break in and a few things i have noticed keeping the rpms below 4k is that it seems to ramp up on fuel pressure much quicker im seeing 1600 to high 1700psi. cant wait to open it up and see/feel the difference.
 
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ok so i now have 131 miles on the new PTP fuel pump internals. i gotta say the difference in the feel of the car is really nice. much smoother, feels like it pulls harder longer now. holds pressure in the high 1700 to low 1800's and on occasion ive seen it over 2000 psi. afr's have been around 10.5 at WOT. im really happy with the end result. great product!!
 
ok so i now have 131 miles on the new PTP fuel pump internals. i gotta say the difference in the feel of the car is really nice. much smoother, feels like it pulls harder longer now. holds pressure in the high 1700 to low 1800's and on occasion ive seen it over 2000 psi. afr's have been around 10.5 at WOT. im really happy with the end result. great product!!

gotta lean that out a bit! 11.8:1 or so
 
yeah its a little on the rich side, it fluctuates between 10.5 and 11ish. but mainly stays in the 10's, at this point i may be going with the new Cobb AP to get a better tune, i see it has alot more features now and looks to be a little more user friendly.
 
acessport is the only way to go on these cars. The flexibility is fantastic.

Yep, it really is. And just to let everyone know, we are a new vendor on M247 and we do have Autotech FP Internals in stock. We found them to be the best quality out of the two we were considering out of KMD and AT. We also carry the CPE HPFP which is in stock right now as well. We'll be doing an introduction to ourselves in our thread next week when holiday weekend is over.
 
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