FREE MPI help!

Works now, thanks alot. Im sure i will have plenty more questions when the mpi goes in the car.
 
apocman said:
ok let me look at the document! Oh ok, the exhuast mainfold is a two stage torque sequence the first tightening is at 8 ft lbs and the second is 16 ft lbs. You tighten in this order each time. Tighten the top middle bolt, second from the left bottom bolt, second from the left top bolt, middle bottom bolt, second from the right top bolt, second from the right bottom bolt, top left corner bolt, bottom left corner bolt, top right corner bolt, bottom right corner bolt and finished with tightening the 27mm nut holding the EGR pipe to exhaust manifold...

cool I thinking if it was inch pounds thats barely finger tight! (thumb)
 
MPNick said:
Looks to me that you are running real lean at the upper boost levels.



why would you say that?I am running 11.8 AF till I get cut,then it dives lean because it is cutting.
 
Ok. I have been confused for the last couple of days on this. Do I need a rrfpr for my kit if Im using the mpi to tune or extra injectors. Iv'e want to know should I just get wrx 440's or can I tune with the stock injectors. I hear some people say yes and some say no. So Im asking the people who know the mpi.
 
I would suggest using oyur stock injectors, getting the MPI with the extra injector setup. That way it drives like stock out of boost. but hte extra injectors provide enough fuel when in boost.
 
Due i need to get a rrfpr if im using the mpi? Can I use the stock injectors or should I get the wrx 440cc when i tune the car?
 
You don't need a RRFPR, that is a form of fuel management that increases fuel pressure to supply your engine with more fuel when boost comes on. You also don't need 440 wrx injectors. Those would replace your stock injectors which if you buy the MPI and extra injector setup, you don't want to do. Because then you'd be tuning the out of boost, and in boost which is much more intensive, and you run into idle problems, cold start problems, things like that.
 
JOMO said:
Ok. I have been confused for the last couple of days on this. Do I need a rrfpr for my kit if Im using the mpi to tune or extra injectors. Iv'e want to know should I just get wrx 440's or can I tune with the stock injectors. I hear some people say yes and some say no. So Im asking the people who know the mpi.

If you want you car to run as smoth as stock, idle as good as stock and start up as good as stock you need to keep your stock injectors. No one as been able to get bigger injectors to run as well as the stock.

The extra injectors is the only way to go. It gives you the best of both worlds. Great everyday driveing out of boost and all the fuel you need under big boost.
 
Yep, hookup the MPI for O2 clamping, ign timing modification and extra injectors.
If you dont want extra injectors, you will need something to push extra fuel....like a rising rate fpr, it works good, its not power wise but its good.
 
You do NOT need a rrfpr. The MPI can control fuel via the stock injectors for low PSI, maybe 5-6. If you want more, you will need xtra injectors that are in the mid 200 dollar range. At one time The MPI came with a turbo module that could allow 10psi and have enough fuel out of the stockers, but tuning was a bit more difficult. Maybe Nick can set you up on like this, but IMO, the xtra injectors is the way to go. Screw larger ones in the stock place...you will not be able to utilize them on a stock motor anyway.
 
yep, but for 5-6psi you dont need an MPI at all, just a rrfpr, I ran up to 10psi without the mpi...
some people here ran 13-16psi without any kind of electronics, only a rrfpr...but afte 13psi race fuel is needed.
 
igdrasil said:
yep, but for 5-6psi you dont need an MPI at all, just a rrfpr, I ran up to 10psi without the mpi...
some people here ran 13-16psi without any kind of electronics, only a rrfpr...but afte 13psi race fuel is needed.

How do you retard the timing with the RRFPR? Yes people have run alot of boost in the past. How many engine were lost? How many engine did you blow? Why not do it right from the start?
 
never blown a motor @ 7psi and rrfpr
1 broken piston with 10psi without fuel pump
never broken an engine or piston @ 10psi w/ fuel pump and rrfpr

broke 1st motor on bare mpi and turbo module (bad turbo module, never made it to work right)
Once I got the mpi working good, alone, without turbo module but the fmo2 and extra injectors, never ran into problems until....broke a 2nd motor on mpi and 14psi of boost (this was because of massive abuse by me and all the testings without MAF, running WRX injectors...bad idea, heard it knock once when the extra injector fuse blew, then was a missshift, then the problem with the crank pulley, the engine said bye bye.)
I learned a lot.
 
MPNick said:
Why not do it right from the start?

Think about it...why not everyone can do it right from the start? Bugdet I think. How much a kit cost around without forged internals?

And thats not right anyway, you will need forged internals and full engine management in order to do it right.

Engine Management $1000
Turbo Kit $4000
FOrged Internals $1200
Clutch $350 - $500
Injectors $300
Fuel Pump $200
Upgrade Fuel Lines $200
ARP Hardware $200

Oh...
tunning $250
Installing internals $300-$600

and...

have some spare cash and a beater if possible, because when something breaks you will have to pay to fix it.

Thats a lot of cash

and that will not assure your engine will last, a missed checkmark, and your engine may be done in seconds.
 
Last edited:
I've been running 8psi making over 200whp for over 2.5 years and that's not doing it right? I have never hurt the motor or had any major issues. I had the MPI installed and tuned right to keep me going this long, so I consider that right. How many other turboed MP3's have made over 220whp at 8psi for as long as I have? If my setup is not right, then what the hell is? Doing it right means having fuel and timing control to me and that's exactly what you get with the MPI for a very fair price!!!
 
igdrasil said:
Think about it...why not everyone can do it right from the start? Bugdet I think. How much a kit cost around without forged internals?

And thats not right anyway, you will need forged internals and full engine management in order to do it right.

Engine Management $1000
Turbo Kit $4000
FOrged Internals $1200
Clutch $350 - $500
Injectors $300
Fuel Pump $200
Upgrade Fuel Lines $200
ARP Hardware $200

Oh...
tunning $250
Installing internals $300-$600
Our turbo kit comes with the MPI and extra injectors. The total price of the kit is under $4,000.00. It has dynoed over 220 whp.

Over 300 whp has been made with the stock fuel pump, fuel lines,fuel rails and fuel injectors. ARP hardware is a was of money and may be more then likely a step backwards.

Not sure where you are going with this but the numbers are off.
 
whats your point with this,that it is an expensive hobby?cause yeah it is,but you "gotta pay to play"
if this is too much money,then build a cheaper car.there a lot of alternative cars to mod that cost a lot less.


igdrasil said:
Think about it...why not everyone can do it right from the start? Bugdet I think. How much a kit cost around without forged internals?

And thats not right anyway, you will need forged internals and full engine management in order to do it right.

Engine Management $1000
Turbo Kit $4000
FOrged Internals $1200
Clutch $350 - $500
Injectors $300
Fuel Pump $200
Upgrade Fuel Lines $200
ARP Hardware $200

Oh...
tunning $250
Installing internals $300-$600

and...

have some spare cash and a beater if possible, because when something breaks you will have to pay to fix it.

Thats a lot of cash

and that will not assure your engine will last, a missed checkmark, and your engine may be done in seconds.
 

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