Forged rods?

wicked said:
what about rings?price?or are we supposed to use our factory?


just wondering,but can our block handle.20 over?
a little extra goes along way.
The kit will come with Rods and pistons already assembled, new piston rings, head gasket and cam seals. Instructions in how to remove the oil pan and main crank support will be included. There is an easy way to do it.

Juan
 
I don't understand how anyone can just buy rods and pistons without checking their cylinder bore for correct fit with the pistons. There are some people on the boards that will tell you their forged pistons sound like a diesel. More than likely it is because they are experiencing piston slap because they are too loose.
 
wicked said:
and removing the head.
if you don't know how to do this,then DON'T.let a pro do it.

I've done it on an old 304 V8 but that's totally different. I'm not planning on doing it myself. If it wasn't my daily driver I'd considerate it, just to get the experience.

Not to be stubborn, but why is it necessary to take off the head?
 
how in the world would you compress the rings to get them in from below?... not to mention how would you get the piston past the crank without removing it... WAY mmore involved than simply removing the head.
 
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You have to remove the head. The oilers will also hinder you from installing the pistons. Pistons from the top.
 
RyanJayG said:
how in the world would you compress the springs to get them in from below

why would you need to compress the valve springs?

zzooomm said:
You have to remove the head. The oilers will also hinder you from installing the pistons. Pistons from the top.

so wouldnt the connecting rods also go in from the top with the pistons?

sorry for the newb questions... i dont have much experience when it comes to bottom ends ... no pun intended.
 
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Wiggles422 said:
why would you need to compress the valve springs?



so wouldnt the connecting rods also go in from the top with the pistons?

sorry for the newb questions... i dont have much experience when it comes to bottom ends ... no pun intended.
(lol) (lol) (lol)
 
take head off>insert pistons and rods(with out caps)>add caps from bottom>

it's a lot of work for some one who dosen't know how,nor would it be advised.it is very easy to messup. for instance if the person gets any debree on bearings,to much or to little tightening on the caps,or head,doesen't get timming correct opon assembly,accedentaly sets head on rough surface.
it is a very easy project to f#@* up,and it should never be assumed it's an easy bolt in project.
 
Bhamsan said:
I won't be getting mine until I get a decent job, or one that will pay for my expensive habit of buying s*** for my car.
Yea i just got a second job to Support my Car Modding addiction.. i am in the looking for another engine block so i can take it apart and get it read yto be forged.. then drop it in (thumb) ... since this is the only car i own i cant be without it..
 
what does the kit run price wise and can i just leave use my pistions or do you modify the stock ones for wrist pins? how do you lower the compresion ratio by moving the wrist pins up or by taking metal off the top?
 
You need to get yours machined at a lathe if you want to use the ones in the car to fit the wrist pin locks. That is why we offer the kit with the pistons. They are stock Mazda ones either modified to lower he compression (which we strongly recommend) or stock 9.1 to 1 CR.

With this setup, if the block is in good codition, there is no need to take it off to take it to a machine shop and do the piston to wall clearance required with forged pistons.

Juan


bill harvey said:
what does the kit run price wise and can i just leave use my pistions or do you modify the stock ones for wrist pins? how do you lower the compresion ratio by moving the wrist pins up or by taking metal off the top?
 
The redline is set by the ECU, and I don't think there is such a thing as a CR sensor. So no, CR will not affect the redline.

Can't you also lower the compression ratio slightly by porting the head(the combustion chamber side)?

Oh and I would wager that the 8.5 CR causes gas mileage to take a nose-dive, am I right?
 
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