Forged Rods + stock piston !

turboboy

Member
Just wondering how you go about modifying the stock piston to use with forged rods ? I know Hiboost uses this combo but no one has ever mentioned how its done. With forged piston, I just don't want to deal with piston slap on cold morning startup and excessive oil usage. Thanks !
 
I believe the pistons are machined to accept the floating wristpins. They may even take a little off the top to lower compression. As you said- Hiboost would probably be able to give you the info you need. Make sure you know a good machine shop.
 
Just send the piston to a machine shop with the piston pins you going to use. They will machine then down to the pin clearance.

Not all forged pistons sound loud. CP pistons are ok. You will know its forged but its not loud and sounds healthy, not like something that could be confused for a problem.
 
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turboboy said:
Just wondering how you go about modifying the stock piston to use with forged rods ? I know Hiboost uses this combo but no one has ever mentioned how its done. With forged piston, I just don't want to deal with piston slap on cold morning startup and excessive oil usage. Thanks !
i've never heard about that. would someone explain?
 
Igdrasil,

Thanks for the infos. How much did it cost you to have the machine work ? I just need a reference for pricing so that I know if I'm overcharged when I talk to my machine shop. Thanks again !
 
turboboy said:
Igdrasil,

Thanks for the infos. How much did it cost you to have the machine work ? I just need a reference for pricing so that I know if I'm overcharged when I talk to my machine shop. Thanks again !


hmmm...i dont remember, close to $120. ill get back to you...

heres a pic
 

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Bumping up.. so does it defeat the purpose of forged if you only get the rods? Can the pistons (if machined correctly) hold up to higher boost? Just killed a rod bearing, so looking into forged instead of just repairing it and keeping it stock.
 
Metallic36 said:
Bumping up.. so does it defeat the purpose of forged if you only get the rods? Can the pistons (if machined correctly) hold up to higher boost? Just killed a rod bearing, so looking into forged instead of just repairing it and keeping it stock.

Well, pistons will hold good for 300whp and even more. You usually keep your stock pistons if you are going to push the limits with little expense. But dont expect them to hold 400whp.

And...in a event of ping/knock stock pistons will miserably fail in less time than the forged. But if you are not familiar with the ping sound, forged will go bye bye in just a blink when pushing high HP numbers.
 
Anyone tried boosting with JDM 10.4 or 10.7:1 pistons? (I would assume fairly low boost)
 
ctt 1982 said:
that definately wouldn't be ideal

right...our blocks are not efficient radiating heat and with higher compression, you will need serious tunning too.

One thing I would do is upgrade valves or coat them, efficient turbo and intercooler, oil cooler and the best radiator around.
 
Quote:
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Just wondering how you go about modifying the stock piston to use with forged rods ? I know Hiboost uses this combo but no one has ever mentioned how its done. With forged piston, I just don't want to deal with piston slap on cold morning startup and excessive oil usage. Thanks !
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could someone explain piston slap?
 
While you're waiting for a better answer, my understanding is the forged pistons expand more as they heat up. So for a good fit at operating temps they are made a bit smaller than stock, allowing them to have some sideways movement until warmed up, causing the noise?
 
Sleepy said:
Anyone tried boosting with JDM 10.4 or 10.7:1 pistons? (I would assume fairly low boost)

Bigwoofer had like 10.5:1 and 8psi I think... Lasted 2 years before he blew.
 
turboboy said:
Just wondering how you go about modifying the stock piston to use with forged rods ? I know Hiboost uses this combo but no one has ever mentioned how its done. With forged piston, I just don't want to deal with piston slap on cold morning startup and excessive oil usage. Thanks !

Find the correct pin for both piston and rod (or use the ones from arias or cp sells from his forged set) and modify the piston for it.

Check the pic
 

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Igdrasil

Thanks for all your help, i know what needs to be done now. But I just found out that the Oliver billet rods i bought are the long one so I have to get the CP pistons. I guess I'll sell the Oliver and get Pauter with stock piston !!!


igdrasil said:
Find the correct pin for both piston and rod (or use the ones from arias or cp sells from his forged set) and modify the piston for it.

Check the pic
 
what compression do you guys think you should go with then? i would like to keep it at least the 9.0 to keep some low end.

I'll be using a t3/t4 and running water/methanol injection. Boost will be in the 15-20psi range, depending on fuel supply.
 
kyle's protege5 said:
what compression do you guys think you should go with then? i would like to keep it at least the 9.0 to keep some low end.

I'll be using a t3/t4 and running water/methanol injection. Boost will be in the 15-20psi range, depending on fuel supply.

I have 8.5:1 and my low end is just fine. I think I'm running the thicker Cometic head gasket too. I'm not sure what I put in. Some guys run straight 8:1 and still have a bit of bottom end, but running that much boost on 9:1 might be pushing it. Lower compression lowers your risk of detonation, which provides a bit of "cushion" whil you're tuning.
 

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