First oil change?

[MikeHTally]

Okay okay... I get it... I just had some sort of thought that synthetic was required.

I remember now! It was when we asked the salesman at the dealer if the car took synthetic oil and he said yes, and the dealer will use synthetic for all of its changes.

Well, I'm putting in synthetic anyways.

The dealer that sold me my 300C told me synthetic was REQUIRED. When I asked him to show me that in the manual, he backed off, saying it was a good idea. That may be true, but I'm not buying it.

I don't remember if you said how many miles are on your car, but dino oil is recommended for the first eight or ten thousand. The friction surfaces need to get to know each other before the more slippery stuff is put in. Consider too, is the fact they're just fine with dead lizards. The important part is to change it regularly. Synthetics deal with the turbo heat better. Remember, too, the engine has a 60K warranty. Mazda's been at this for a while.

 

[Mz3Hatch]

Remember, too, the engine has a 60K warranty. Mazda's been at this for a while.

That being said, I've had TWO 2.3l motors blow up on me and I faithfully changed the oil and took amazing care of my car. All highway miles on the car as well, auto trans, and didnt drive it hard. Was i little skeptical about getting back into a 3 bc of this and now alot more power over base 2.3l. Anything is subject to failure, warranty or not. I just don't want something to happen and I'm without my car for a month waiting for a new block.

Nevermind my pissing though, any car and any motor is bound to have issues and sometimes no matter what you do, breaking is inevitable!

 

[18psiWhiteMS3]

is it bad to switch to royal purple at 2000 miles?

 

[MikeHTally]

I think it would be premature. I'd wait, but that's me. I followed the break-in procedures with this car just as with all my new ones.

 

[mikesul]

You don't need synthetic, but I will use it for my '09 MS3. Got the first oil/filter change at 650 miles. I will then change it twice a year as I usually only do 5500-6000 miles/year.

 

[Wurf]

If anything the synthetic adds a few HP over mineral oil and might help your mileage as well as not breaking down as easily as the mineral oils with the high heat of the turbo.

That said I had the dealer change mine at 2800 or so, and they put Motorcraft semi synthetic in it. I'll run that another three thousand before I dump it and go with full synthetic.

 

[camrycev6]

If anything the synthetic adds a few HP over mineral oil and might help your mileage as well as not breaking down as easily as the mineral oils with the high heat of the turbo.

That said I had the dealer change mine at 2800 or so, and they put Motorcraft semi synthetic in it. I'll run that another three thousand before I dump it and go with full synthetic.

Actually, this is only true if you add a lower weight synthetic. It works the same as conventional oils as well. The reduced weight oils offer less resistance to moving parts adding usually 2-3% HP gains. Certainly not enough for me to justify it. Adding a synthetic oil of the same weight will NOT increase your HP.

 

[Wurf]

I'm only going upon back to back dyno tests that I've read in the past where they changed the fluids from mineral to synthetic ( same weight ) and gain maybe 7 to 10hp. This would have been in a Domestic V8, specifically Ford small block engines.

Not sure what the numbers would be in this car as I've never seen a similar test.

STeve

 

[camrycev6]

I'm only going upon back to back dyno tests that I've read in the past where they changed the fluids from mineral to synthetic ( same weight ) and gain maybe 7 to 10hp. This would have been in a Domestic V8, specifically Ford small block engines.

Not sure what the numbers would be in this car as I've never seen a similar test.

STeve

Do you mean this article:

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/synthetic_vs_conventional_oil/index.html

If you read it carefully, you will see the 7 HP and 10 HP gains were from using thinner conventional and synthetic oil respectively. Again, using the same weight oil will not give you the mechanical benefits (lower resistance) merely because it is synthetic.

 

[Wurf]

Actually that's a more modern and recent test that what I had in mind, but a good example making your point. Going from heavier oil to lighter viscosity in a large displacement V8 with plenty of internal friction obviously highlights the merits of runnier oil.

I'm talking about the countless tech articles I've read where they'll take a bone stock mustang, baseline dyno, then pull the air silencer and install a K&N, dyno for results, then advance the timing a few degrees, dyno for results, then install underdrives, dyno for results, then swap all the fluids for synthetic to the crank case, tranny ( ATF in it actually ) and the rear diff, and dyno for results, then add 1.7 rockers and dyno for results etc. Each gain adds a little bit of power and most of them help the magazine sponsors sell parts and supplies. Synthetic was always good for a handful of HP and torque.

Now on to your point, can you buy 10W40 synthetic and actually make a direct comparison to 10W40 conventional oil? Actually you can, but it apparently is marketed only for Motorcycles and Racing Oils, not passenger cars.

So there you have it.

I have yet to see a 5W30 conventional to synthetic dyno test in a speed3 but honestly I have to admit you are likely correct in that it should not add appreciable power, all other things being equal.

 

[MaikuMS3]

i bought mine M1 5w30 6 qts for $35.