First Oil change

Anyone have a good estimate as to when the first oil change should come? There are a bunch of different estimates out there - and it seems that the dealer's don't really know or there isn't a "Mazda specified time frame."

Out of the two closest to me, one recommended 2000 miles and the other 3500. I've never owned a brand new car before and I guess I'm worried about the content of metal shavings, etc in the new engine oil - 3500 miles seems too long to me.
 
I chose ~2,000 miles myself. The issue of metal floating around is bunk in my opinion. The oil filter is there to protect the engine against that stuff. I will go 2,000, 5,000 10,000 and get a UOA to see how things are wearing in and should I be changing earler than 5,000 or can I safely go farher on an oil change.
 
THE OWNERS MANUAL SAYS 7,500 MILES...changing before that is a waste of time and money! The dealership will want you to change it earlier if they want to take your money bad enough. Most new cars have a special break-in oil that should be left in the engine for the max. miles per the owner's manual. Man I hate going to get my car serviced, I was thrilled to be back in a Mazda that can go 7500 miles between oil changes!
 
Yeah I changed it around 7.5K, and it ran me I think 99 bucks, but I get internal pricing so your cost maybe higher.
 
But really, change it at 5K if you feel the need, the car does not need oil changes every 3K, you might hurt the car, so try 5K.
 
7500 miles on what I would consider "break-in" oil seems pretty excessive to me though.

If Mazda thinks its OK I would think that would be the recommended timeframe. They would be paying for oil related failures...so 7500 is the best way to go.
 
5,000 miles is my service manuals recomendation for severe service. My "severe" service is stop & go driving and seldom driven over 10 miles per trip. My choice of the first change at 2,000-2,500 is an old habit. My turbocharged Saabs were given a free oil change and inspection IF the owner brought his new vehicle to the dealer within 1600-2400 miles? That mileage was what Saab considered proper for the first change. That was ~ 1994 so it may be outdated or not apply to my CX7. My CX7 dealer offered a free oil change at the 3,000 mile mark, and I took it abit early as I was leaving on a long trip.
 
erhayes,

If you really think metal floating in the oil is bunk, then send me your e-mail address. I'll send you all 3 of my used oil analysis. I recommend you duct tape your jaw to your hear.....or it might fall off.

From my experience, I change my oil as early as possible.....500 miles or less. Also, there is no such thing as break-in oil as Honda has suggested many years now.
 
I go by what I know. What I know is most if not all new cars I have owned (quite a few..I am a geezer) I have made the first oil change as the Owners Manual have suggested. Guess what? I never in my life have ever had an oil related engine failure in ANY of these cars. After the intial change I laways without fail made subsequent changes @ 3500 to 4000 miles always useing Dino Oil (Non Synthetic)..again never ANY oil related engine issues.

In other words, save yourself the added cost of oil analysis and early oil changes and do what the manufacturer recommends. I think they know a little bit more about their own engines than we do.
 
My comments are from my experience with my Turbo Saab I4, red block Volvo I4, Jeep I6 GC, and a 2000 F4 Sabaru. All cars sold with 122,000 to 197,000 miles running very well with no oil related issues or consuming over 1/2 quart in a 4,000 to 6,000 mile oil change interval. Just my experiences and results which seem to work very well for me. Thank you. Ed
 
It seems I am being prosecuted everywhere I go, therefore, this will be the last contribution I make here. Sorry guys, but I just can't deal with this every single day.




Notice the first analysis is NOT the factory oil....it is instead Havoline Dino 5W-30. Factory oil would have look much worse. Also, notice the comments from the lab....these engines run pig rich. Fuel in the oil is as follows.....Trace(1st), 2.0% (2nd) and 1.0% (3rd). The oil is having a serious time dealing with that much fuel. Insolubles, which are oxidation by-products (literally engine gunk) are sky high from fuel induced oxidation. The highest (2nd report) was 0.6%....the highest limit allowed. It is more alarming considering the oil was only run for 4k miles. Although I ran 5W-20 twice, wear continue to improve with engine age. I have seen reports from owners of MS3s and they look just as scary!

My suggestion is change factory oil within 500 miles; then run a quality dino (Havoline, Pennzoil, Motorcraft or GTX) for 3000 miles or so for the next 2 intervals. After that, switch over to Pennzoil Platinum 5 or 10W-30, depending on your weather. That would flush out all metals and initial fuel dilution.

Good luck guys! Feel free to message me if you have any questions!

Rick
 
My comments are from my experience with my Turbo Saab I4, red block Volvo I4, Jeep I6 GC, and a 2000 F4 Sabaru. All cars sold with 122,000 to 197,000 miles running very well with no oil related issues or consuming over 1/2 quart in a 4,000 to 6,000 mile oil change interval. Just my experiences and results which seem to work very well for me. Thank you. Ed

Thanks ED.
 
Rick: I reviewed your UOA and did note that the flash point was ~350 where 370 + is preferred. Fuel dilution is not good but, not alarming at that level. I saw nothing to excite me about the insolubles, especially when I noticed you are not using the recommended viscosity but, a lower viscosity. A somewhat rich mixture combined with a lower than recommended viscosity oil and especially a Dino oil will increase the insolubles. Most of my comments are gleaned from the BITOG forum where several discussions are centered on oil dilution, Dino oil, benefits of a higher viscosity oil and of course the advantages of synthetic oil when fuel dilution is present. Thank you for posting the UOA and I will try to save yours and compare them to mine. I do however have only 2,500 miles on my CX7 and will do my UOA at ~ 12,000 miles or maybe sooner. Ed Hayes
 
Ed,

I have been a member at BITOG since 2002....one of the very first ones. Anyway, Motorcraft 5W-20 is not a dino, it's a synthetic blend. You might be right, the lower viscosity may have something to do with the high insolubles. Most likely though a result of oxidation from fuel.

I guarantee you, your UOA will have high amounts of fuel....I've seen it in a few MZR engines and seems to be the norm. I would advice against very long drain interval.

Let's not "cheap out" on the lifeblood of the engine......just like we wouldn't with gas......huh killer?(no)
 

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