First 2012 oil change?

[DynoBunny]

I think Napa sells it locally.

 

[dieseldriver]

Thanks, I'll call them up for some price. I am thinking of extended oil change interval now using either Royal Purple or Amsoil.

I think Napa sells it locally.

 

[DynoBunny]

How extended? 7500?

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

I use Mazolla brand oil and Change it every 2000.3 Km

It's easy to find in the house because my wife bakes cakes and stuff thus saving me some money too...

 

[GBean]

IMO royal purple is expensive snake oil. No benefit to it.
I have always used well known synthetics like Mobil 1 etc.
You can get good deals on cases at Costco every couple months.

 

[dieseldriver]

15Km -- using Bosch extended interval oil filter and the correct extended change interval oil such as Amsoil or Royal Purple. I believe Mobil started to sell "extended performance" oil as well. But I know that Amsoil at least is the type of synthetic oil that can outperform majority of synthetic. Speaking of which, my co-worker has a new Audi A4 and they're are filled from the factory with extended change interval synthetic with 15Km change interval. Dealer would not change the oil unless the car ran close to or at 15Km.

How extended? 7500?

 

[dieseldriver]

I use Mobil1 0W-20 right now. But want to give the Royal Purple a try, heard a lot of good things about them.

IMO royal purple is expensive snake oil. No benefit to it.
I have always used well known synthetics like Mobil 1 etc.
You can get good deals on cases at Costco every couple months.

 

[DynoBunny]

I've been using Mobil 0w-20 as well. If I had extra cash to spend on oil though I would def go with Uneos, Amsoil is really good as well.

 

[90210]

I have been using Mobil 0w-20 on the 5. On my sports cars I use Motul.

 

[GBean]

I wish I could find a good price on the 0-20 Mobil 1. I've been using the deals on cases of 5-20 at Costco.

 

[90210]

Agree, can't find good deals, so I just buy by the quart. Eh well. I am coming on my 3rd oil change soon.

 

[fitzski]

Some comments from my first change on our 2012 this past weekend. Easy peasy; no real need to remove the splash guard, though either a short oil filter wrench or - preferably - oil filter socket is required.

I took a sample; curious to see how the oil looks since we've had it since just 6km on the odo, and I'm doing this OCI at ~4100km (2500 miles).

Mazda says it's 5.0L capacity... I got just over 4.5L out, and that was with the dipstick showing about 1/3 above the min fill mark. Figuring it's about 0.5L between min and max fill (and not knowing exactly how much the factory put it), that's pretty good.

Filled with M1 0W20 (green cap); locally, it goes on sale regularly at Canadian Tire, $9/L instead of $12/L (or $11/L at Walmart).

Used a Purolator PureOne PL10241 filter... knowing what I know now, I would have gotten the taller PL20195, as the additional ~1.4" height wouldn't be an issue, and increases the filter media surface area accordingly. Also, on the PureOne filters, the textured finish is great. You could get away with hand-tight, even, because you can get such a good grip (although I did an additional 1/8" turn with the wrench for certainty).

There isn't much doubt that an extractor is going to get more oil out than the drain plug.

Also, FYI, with the car still on ramps, I stuck the Pela (fluid extractor) in to see if I could get anything - nothing more, really.

 

[willchan]

New Owner here looking forward to doing his own oil changes after experiencing a monkey forgetting to put the washer on before the drain plug and stripping the threads on my previous car. Can anyone post photos where the access points are and what tactics to use when the oil filter is removed to minimize spilling? I use the Blitz Rhino Ramps to get under the car.

 

[dieseldriver]

I don't even bother ever removing the drain plug, I use Pela 5000, have been using it for about 5 years now. Have been using it since I've owned a VW TDI. There's a how to use video on www.tdiclub.com. On the MZ5, it's hard not to drip the oil when removing the oil filter through the access hole. I would use a zip lock back as covering the filter as you un-screw the filter. It holds a lot of oil as some will almost certainly get on the splash plate.

New Owner here looking forward to doing his own oil changes after experiencing a monkey forgetting to put the washer on before the drain plug and stripping the threads on my previous car. Can anyone post photos where the access points are and what tactics to use when the oil filter is removed to minimize spilling? I use the Blitz Rhino Ramps to get under the car.

 

[Robotazky]

HI All--

It is my first mazda5, and I am noticing something I would like to share with you. I was checking the engine oil (cold engine), and the dipstick showed oil at minimum. Then again, I checked, and the oil barely made the bottom of the dipstick wet. it is inconsistent with the readings I would expect. It has 4000 miles on it and this car has not been to dealership since bought it.

Just wanted to know if anyone has noticed something similar, and do I need to be alarmed about it. Also, of lately, after turning off the engine, I hear the humming sound of a motor for 2-3 seconds.

Please share your thoughts.

thanks,
Akshobya

Regarding the dipstick, we've talked at length about that on the '06-'10 forum. The seal on the dipstick is so tight that it effectively makes a tube of air that resists being filled as the oil level rises after the engine is turned off. You have to take it out and do it again to get an accurate reading. Do it 2-3 times and you'll see the pattern.

The humming noise is normal. My '09 has done it since new.

 

[eyeballs]

As a 2 owner that got no splash guard from the factory, I am definately jealous of the 5's engine splash guard(wife's car). Very nice cutouts for the filter and drain plug. Plus, there are tiny holes drilled where the spillage that hits the shield will drain out. I think I like it more than my aftermarket corksport aluminum plate I have on the 2. Oh, and a warning for those who are doing their 1st oil change...my filter was on SUPER tight, no way was it coming off by hand.

I also ran out of OEM 0w-20 after the 4th quart and went to auto-zone. Euro Castrol 0w-30 was the same price as Mobil-1 0w-20, so I went with the german stuff since it certainly has a better reputation than everything else available at the store. I'm still going to use the OEM oil for the most part (its pretty cheap by the case) but if I went with something else I guess it would be the castrol.

 

[ukulele]

I'm always at odds with my mechanic about oil changes, and while I respect what he says and his experience, what I have been taught in school makes more sense to me. Regardless of oil grade and brand having any oil in any gasoline engine for more than 5000 is a lot. In the old days of conventional oils they always used the 3000 mile mark as the industry standard. With the new synthetics, new thinner grades, additives, and new advances in reducing wasted fuel in engines, we can stretch the changes a bit more and it def helps the environment. I change my synthetic at around 5K miles, my mechanic says I'm wasting money and I should be changing it every 7.5K to 10K if I'm using a synthetic. I vehemently disagree. Even if a car sits with the same oil for months and barely gets taken out you still have to account for things like condensation. I tell him all the time, the extra $25 per jug and $5 oil filter is cheap engine insurance to me. He also doesn't take into account things like driving up hill, headwinds, towing, dusty environments, heavy loads, etc. I suppose. People now a days put too much confidence in motor oil. It's still oil and it still get contaminated and from an engineering perspective you don't want any amount of contaminants in your oil to begin with.

He uses a brand called Motul for his BMW and M-B customers and for the Japanese cars he uses a different brand I forgot what its called but its not cheap. If I remember I will post.

 

[jetstreamblue]

Just did my first oil change on the weekend. Did it at 8000km, as recommended by Mazda Canada. Yes, the factory oil filter was on super tight. Rest of it was mostly painless, love the cutouts so I don't have to mess with panels.
I used Toyota 0W20 (read BITOG, it's a good oil), probably around the cheapest synthetic 0W20 you can get around here. I may stretch my oil change intervals a bit in the future. This is the shortest recommended oil change interval I've seen in any of my recent cars running synthetic. My wife's Beetle has 16,000 km recommended change intervals, even my old Civic Hybrid was ~15,000 km between changes (based on the car's maintenance reminder).

Does our 5 have a maintenance reminder that needs to be reset after an oil change? This is my first car without one...

 

[ukulele]

I don't even know, my Toyotas had those lights, I found them annoying at first then I got used to them (i'm old school, we used to have to remember somehow or you'd just look at the dipstick, and smell the oil for gas). I will look it up when I get a chance.

 

[MarkVII88]

For anyone who does their own oil changes, what brand/level oil filter have you been running in your Mazda? For 4 years I've been doing my own oil changes on both my wife's 2008 Mazda 5 and the 2004 Corolla I had before picking up my new 2012 Mazda 5 in October. We don't tend to put a huge number of miles on our cars, maybe 10K or 11K per year so I change the oil on both in the spring and again in the fall. I have been running either Mobil 1 or Castrol Edge (whichever was on-sale) in both of these cars without incident and have accompanied it with a Purolator PureOne oil filter. I guess the main reason for getting this Purolator filter was that it was listed as the "premium" filter in the reference guide they have available at Advance Auto Parts so you know what fits your vehicle. Does anyone have a filter they swear by?