First 2012 oil change?

90210

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2012 Mazda5 Touring
I am at about 600 miles.

I want to change it with DINO oil at 1000 miles.

Then at 4000 miles switch over to synethic.

I ordered a dozen OEM filters that I got yesterday. Any tips/pointers on doing the first oil change?

Also it says car requires 0-20 oil. Have you found DINO oil in this weight?
Thanks
 
The manual gives a schedule of 7,000 miles or 5,000 miles. I'm at 7,200 right now (since April) and will be over 9,000 (!) after the upcoming vacation. I got the oil changed at 7k because my driving fit that schedule but I'll be doing the 5k soon because of changes in my driving routine. I haven't seen 0W-20 in non-synthetic yet.
 
I did my first oil change at 1500 miles with Mobil 1, which I've been using since the '80s. I'll do my second change at 7500 and then every 7500 thereafter.
 
Thanks guys.

Yes Johnnie that is what I am talking about, the first oil change. So can you confirm, the car comes with synthetic from the factory? I just want to make sure that putting synthetic at 1500 miles for the first change won't do it any harm.

Lastly, did either of you guys do your own change? Any difficulties?
 
My understanding is that the factories use petroleum oil for break-in purposes because synthetic oil does not allow the moving parts to settle in properly. I've never had a problem switching to synthetic after around 1500 miles.
 
There's a bunch of threads out there about early synthetic usage and from what I've read it's fine to go synthetic right away. I recommend more reading, but that's what I did at 2k miles. Supposedly it's a myth that synthetic does not allow break in. Many cars do come with synthetic from the factory, how are they going to every break in? I think some of this stuff used to be true, but no longer, which makes for a lot of confusion.

Also for the first change be prepared for the oil filter being on so tight from the factory that it will be a challenge to take off. Allow extra time for this!

Also 0W-20 dino oil does not exist, that's only available as a synthetic.
 
Thanks guys. Bought the oil. Have tons of filters here.

Hope its an easy a change as most japanese cars. Any special tools needeD?
 
90210, you are too used to euro cars haha.

Most Jap cars use very few specialty tools. you may come across the odd allen head bolt, but for the most part it's all mostly metric stuff.
 
Haha. I will attempt it this weekend and report back. Thanks for the help Eric! Appreciate it.
 
I just did my first oil change at the dealership and the 2012 5 does come with synthetic from the factory as opposed to the pre 2012. The thought the service rep was trying to get over on me but iI looked in the book at its true.
 
I just did my first oil change at the dealership and the 2012 5 does come with synthetic from the factory as opposed to the pre 2012. The thought the service rep was trying to get over on me but iI looked in the book at its true.

I was going to ask you do you know where the oil pan is and for some instructional help...but guess I can't :)
 
Did the oil change. I used OEM filter and 0w-20 oil, mobil 1. Took me about 2.5 hours. I read all the how tos, and had to take off the bottom panel. 45 minutes of that time was getting the oil filter off, which was crazy tight.

Lesson learned taking off the splash panel is silly. THere are PERFECT cutouts to remove the filter and the oil drain plug. Should have looked at it, before stupidly following the internet how to.

Next one should be 30 minutes or less.
 
I'm glad you stuck with the 0w20 synth. Dino oil serves no purpose on new engines.

I just did my first service a few weeks ago. I couldn't believe a full synth oil change at the dealer was only $49! I can't do it myself for less money. My Mobil 1 oil changes at Subaru were around $90.

Dealer services FTW. Unless of course they raise the price once more 2012+ cars are on the road, which wouldn't surprise me.
 
I'm glad you stuck with the 0w20 synth. Dino oil serves no purpose on new engines.

I just did my first service a few weeks ago. I couldn't believe a full synth oil change at the dealer was only $49! I can't do it myself for less money. My Mobil 1 oil changes at Subaru were around $90.

Dealer services FTW. Unless of course they raise the price once more 2012+ cars are on the road, which wouldn't surprise me.
WOW that is very cheap. Oil is about 6$/quart x 6 quarts (though you need 5.3) + filter. So it cost me about $40 to do it on my own.

If my dealer charged $49, I would have it done there.

However, on miata.net plenty of Miatas have lost their engines over the last 2 years becaues dealer monkeys didn't put enough oil or didn't tighten the bolts down.

So for now, I prefer to do it at home.
 
HI All--

It is my first mazda5, and I am noticing something I would like to share with you. I was checking the engine oil (cold engine), and the dipstick showed oil at minimum. Then again, I checked, and the oil barely made the bottom of the dipstick wet. it is inconsistent with the readings I would expect. It has 4000 miles on it and this car has not been to dealership since bought it.

Just wanted to know if anyone has noticed something similar, and do I need to be alarmed about it. Also, of lately, after turning off the engine, I hear the humming sound of a motor for 2-3 seconds.

Please share your thoughts.

thanks,
Akshobya
 
HI All--

It is my first mazda5, and I am noticing something I would like to share with you. I was checking the engine oil (cold engine), and the dipstick showed oil at minimum. Then again, I checked, and the oil barely made the bottom of the dipstick wet. it is inconsistent with the readings I would expect. It has 4000 miles on it and this car has not been to dealership since bought it.

Just wanted to know if anyone has noticed something similar, and do I need to be alarmed about it. Also, of lately, after turning off the engine, I hear the humming sound of a motor for 2-3 seconds.

Please share your thoughts.

thanks,
Akshobya
I rarely check my oil with a cold engine (but know I should). I just went out to the garage and checked the oil in my totally cold 2012 5GT and my wife's 2008 Honda CR-V. Both showed oil exactly at the upper (full) hole in the dipsticks. Both cars have had oil changes in the past month or two at the local quick-change place.

With 4000 miles on a brand new engine, I don't think I'd worry about it (especially since oil still registers on the bottom of the dipstick). HOWEVER, I would bring it in for an oil change right away to start fresh, and purge your crankcase of the tiny metal particles that tend to accumulate during the first thousand miles or so in a new engine. I would then check the cold oil level weekly to make sure there are no issues with your lubricating system. I doubt you have any...maybe it just wasn't filled up all the way when new.

I personally use synthetic oil exclusively and recommend it for its hot and cold lubricating properties, as well as its capabilities during extended mileage intervals.
 
I agree with TOm. Though I don't check cold, I also did it for this thread, and it is at the top mark.
 
I did kind of the same thing. Replaced the original oil only at around 700 miles with Mobile 5000 5W-20. At about 1000-1500 miles, I will be changing out to Mobile 1 0W-20 (recommended from mfg.) with new OEM or Bosch aftermarket oil filter thereafter.

I was thinking to change out the original oil as soon as I picked it up at the dealer with 2miles on the odometer but did not get a chance to do it. Just feel that getting rid of the original oil from assembly line is a good idea in my opinion.
I am at about 600 miles.

I want to change it with DINO oil at 1000 miles.

Then at 4000 miles switch over to synethic.

I ordered a dozen OEM filters that I got yesterday. Any tips/pointers on doing the first oil change?

Also it says car requires 0-20 oil. Have you found DINO oil in this weight?
Thanks
 
From what I have heard, during the break in of the new engine, synthetic oil is somewhat too slippery for the components to wear properly. So my thought on this is to let it break in on dyno for a few hundred mile, then synthetic from then on.
Did the oil change. I used OEM filter and 0w-20 oil, mobil 1. Took me about 2.5 hours. I read all the how tos, and had to take off the bottom panel. 45 minutes of that time was getting the oil filter off, which was crazy tight.

Lesson learned taking off the splash panel is silly. THere are PERFECT cutouts to remove the filter and the oil drain plug. Should have looked at it, before stupidly following the internet how to.

Next one should be 30 minutes or less.
 
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