Finally got my very first mod

nobi1181

Member
For the first time I got something on my P5 that I can really feel a different after installed. I got both front and rear engine mount installed. Now the clutch, the shifter and acceleration feel so good. Not faster, but feel much better. The only complaint is loose pieces in the vehicle.
 
Which mounts did you use (ie AWR, auto or manual 'stiffness', etc)? Is the vibration in the cabin noticeably increased from stock? I'm considering doing this in the next few months, but I don't want a lot more vibration - there's enough loose stuff bugging me already! :)
 
more detail

My car is a 2002 Protege 5 with 72000 km on it. Manual tranny. When I took out the stock engine mounts, front was almost torn all the way through and the rear one was starting to tear.

I bought the hardest mounts possible from awr (no particular reason.) Waited 3 weeks for them to come. After the install, I notice rattle here and there, still trying to find all of them. Seems like most of them up came from the front of cabin. The only two vibrating pieces were the trim piece right next to the gas pedal and the Kramer mazda plate bracket. There are other little one but I will eventually find them. The rear mount install were as hard as most said, just time consuming if you are doing it for the first time. I did it a home all by myself in 3 hours the first time (just the rear mount.)

Oh I did try driving the car with just the front mount replace for one day, I notice there are also vibration in the cabin, not harsh but noticible enough to shake up some trim pieces as well. So I really don't mind the extra shakiness of having both mounts.

If you guys or gals want to see how it really feel in the car, come by Centaur subaru I am a sale staff here, I will let you out for a spin.

Honestly, I really like the result even with all the vibrations.
 
Did you notice any difference in lashing once you changed out just the front? I am interested in knowing since I was just going to change the front for now.
 
andyfatsax said:
Did you notice any difference in lashing once you changed out just the front? I am interested in knowing since I was just going to change the front for now.

I would say very little. But remember, my old front mount was torn, so I can compare it to a new factory mount. The first thing that I notice once the front mount was put on was the clutch engagement was more direct.
 
Clutch engagement is a problem with this car. Yesterday my clutch was acting up and today it works like a dream. I don't get it, but it is one of those things where I can't take it in until it does it 100% of the time or the dealer will just laugh and say there is nothing wrong.
 
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andyfatsax said:
Clutch engagement is a problem with this car. Yesterday much clutch was crappy and today it works like a dream. I don't get it, but it is one of those things where I can't take it in until it does it 100% of the time or the dealer will just laugh and say there is nothing wrong.
As mentioned before, Come to the dealer, I will let you drive my car, see if you like it. Or you can call me at 618-2611. It's my cell phone.
 
Naw thats ok, not necessary. I just wanted to get a little info in order to make an educated decision. So you did your own install? What did you have to do to change the rear?
 
andyfatsax said:
Naw thats ok, not necessary. I just wanted to get a little info in order to make an educated decision. So you did your own install? What did you have to do to change the rear?
I took out the strut tower brace, intake all the way to throttle body, coolant resaviour, battery, battery tray and detached the strance of wires from the fire wall.

After that is just a matter of removing the engine mount and replacing it. There are three nuts that holds it to the sub frame and one of it is block by the stud at the firewall that holds the strance of wires. I just use a hammer and a long rod to knock it out. Also, the bottom nut that holds the strance of wires to the firewall is probably hardest to get at. But just a shallow 10 mm socket 1/4 inch drive with extension make it really easy to remove. I did everything up top under the hood, other than the nut and bolt that connect the mount to engine. The work area is tight but workable just spend sometime looking for best access to those nuts that hold the mount to sub frame. I think I spend more time thinking how to get through obstacle than pulling wrenches.
 
Hey Gibson!! Wassup. good to hear about the motor mounts. I'll ahve to come by one day and check it out. I am in the market for these too.
 
FunkyBuddha said:
Hey Gibson!! Wassup. good to hear about the motor mounts. I'll ahve to come by one day and check it out. I am in the market for these too.
Anytime. I really like the result of having it. I am thinking about doing suspension, what should I get?? ride quality not really a priority. More with budget. maybe 700 at most.
 
Thx for the tips. Funky, me and Maxx Mazda are looking at getting a set of the mounts together to save on shipping costs. Want in? Kona might be interested as well. I should be able to work a deal on 4 sets.
 
Why do you want the A/T mount? Stiffer or something? I want both front and rear, and when I checked, Corksport was the cheapest for AWR mounts.
 
The AT mount is 70 durometer and the MT mount is 80 durometer. With 2 MT mounts..be prepared for the bone jarring you're gonna experience at idle, and A/C on. Just way too stiff.
 
FunkyBuddha said:
The AT mount is 70 durometer and the MT mount is 80 durometer. With 2 MT mounts..be prepared for the bone jarring you're gonna experience at idle, and A/C on. Just way too stiff.

Ya but I want it stiff as hell, my rear mount is pretty much blown now, so I want to make it extra toight.
 

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