Finally after almost 4 years

We went for the RSX plugs for 2 reasons. We were losing spark at just under 5k rpm. the other reason....they were free.

Right now my idle is high but good. I'm not running an IAC right now. The one the shop bought wasn't functioning properly, am waiting on a replacement, but it's currently idling at 1200 rpm.

As posted in the previous post, I'm using AEM EMS 1050. Originally bought from MAM.

As for which tranny, it would be the RSX 5 speed since we have seen these trannies handle loads of power in stock form, there are goodies already out there and the shifter is on the correct side.
 
Very impressed with your enginuity for intake manifold, throttle body, and many other aspects of your build. Geenius!
 
Wow! Its great to see someone else build up a FSDE, gives me hope that mine will be running strong soon. I might have to try out the RSX ignition setup, seems like a good idea for high horsepower proteges.
Post some more pics of the car, i'm sure everyone wants to see what you've done to the exterior!
Great Job Bro!
 
BTW folks, Just want everyone to understand, it was my friend who figured out what to use, how to make it work, made it work and then tuned the whole thing. His name is Justin Bloomer. I understand the theory behind most of the stuff as I research the crap out of most things I do, before I start doing them. But he is kinda one of those rare individuals that can design, fabricate, troubleshoot, fix, and tune anything, He's worked on everything from Honda civics to Vipers and up. The only things I picked on this engine were the Turbo, pistons, rods, radiator, radiator fan and the AEM EMS. But he was the one that advised me on the rest and made them work together.

He's authorized me to give out his cell number but due to forum rules I'm not going to post it. But if you'd like to get in contact with him send me a pm and I'll give you his number.
 
That was the intercooler setup I was going to build till Turbolife made one on the cheap.

great build
 
Good stuff...interested in the RSX tranny stuff. Why was he seeing a loss of spark so low? So few people are seeing this issue (though it exists) there must be something that triggers it.

Here's a link to RSX tranny gearings...I would LOVE to run 6speeds on our cars and most importantly the LSD that WONT break would be ideal.
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=472588
 
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yes, what you should do is help us learn from you and your friend, so we can built ours as good and specially different. Thanks for making our community proud
 
Not sure why it was losing spark. I did have to send the AEM unit back to AEM to have one of the system boards replaced that could have been it, or it could have been a combination of the boost and compression ratio although I doubt that. Or it could have been the way the combustion chamber was reworked. But all in all I think the COPs are better for down the line when we start going for higher boost levels.
 
I just have a quick question. You mentioned that the block was resleaved and cylinders tapered. I was just wondering what it means for the cylinders to be taprered? And would oveboring help eliminate piston slap just like resleaving?
 
I knew we didnt but I figured maybe there was something I missed, cause I cant remmember anyone resleaving the FSDE.
 
All because an engine does not have sleeves does not mean it cannot be sleeved. Basically what they did was over bore the cylinder and then insert a sleeve, then rebore it again to bring it back to factory diameter. I had this done for two reasons. Factory did not taper the cylinders because cast piston swell more than forged when heated. Due to the amount that they swell they don't tend to move from side to side at the bottom of the stroke. Whereas forged pistons do, so a taper at the bottom of the cylinder is needed to prevent piston slap at the bottom of the stroke. The other reason was I had already bought my pistons way back, and had bought a used engine from Greenleaf. It turned out that a couple of the cylinders had scratches deep enough that over boring would be required, but that meant my pistons would be too small...so it was either sleeve them at a cost of 200.00 or buying new custom pistons at a cost of 700.00. The machinist mentioned that sleeving would be optimal for both reasons..... being able to use the pistons I had alread purchased and to be able to put a taper in the cylinders.
 
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All because an engine does not have sleeves does not mean it cannot be sleeved. Basically what they did was over bore the cylinder and then insert a sleeve, then rebore it again to bring it back to factory diameter. I had this done for two reasons. Factory did not taper the cylinders because cast piston swell more than forged when heated. Due to the amount that they swell they don't tend to move from side to side at the bottom of the stroke. Whereas forged pistons do, so a taper at the bottom of the cylinder is needed to prevent piston slap at the bottom of the stroke. The other reason was I had already bought my pistons way back, and had bought a used engine from Greenleaf. It turned out that a couple of the cylinders had scratches deep enough that over boring would be required, but that meant my pistons would be too small...so it was either sleeve them at a cost of 200.00 or buying new custom pistons at a cost of 700.00. The machinist mentioned that sleeving would be optimal for both reasons..... being able to use the pistons I had alread purchased and to be able to put a taper in the cylinders.

I wasn't trying to be a dick, just wondering as to why. Thanks for sharing that information with us, its always nice to learn something new. I know when I start my build, there will be many things to take into account.
 
Like everyone is saying "Awesome build"!!!

I thought it was impossible to do sleeves since there is barely clearance between cylinders.
 
Like everyone is saying "Awesome build"!!!

I thought it was impossible to do sleeves since there is barely clearance between cylinders.

That;s what I was thinking...but again we have been stumped. lots of firsts in this engine. I think we will be able to take in a lot of new ideas from this build. Really usefull!! Keep us updated! AND DONT BLOW THE ENGINE!
 
Well finally got a replacement IAC, so will now be able to do a good driveability tune for the rare times I won't be in boost ;)

btw sleeves on iron blocks are different than the ones used in Honda's. The ones you use on iron blocks are alot thinner. They are designed to repair deeply scored cylinder walls. Cylinder sleeves in a Honda are the whole cylinder due to the Honda block being what's called an open deck design, whereas our engines have coolant passages the Honda motors the coolant surrounds the cylinder, basically Honda motors are built like water cooled motorcycle engines.
 
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Heres a kinda better explanation of Honda blocks...Think of the cylinders as kinda a floating cylinder design where the block is hollow with protrusions sticking out to hold the cylinder in place.
 

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