Fastest Stock Block Msp Period

jeffmsp said:
bad engineered car? I have a more advanced fuel system then either of you and have detonation reistance off the charts.

Didnt you pull your IM out of a junkyard car and your calling my s*** bad? LOL
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wow, just wow...

i was actually giving you props for pushing the limits on this bad engineered piece of s*** car(talking about every MSP, not just mine)
and you bash me like that?..

seems you haven't been on the forums long enough...

also, the fact that i get parts from a junk yard doesn't mean my car is worth less than anyones...it just means that i'm willing to risk blowing my engine to prove every asshole out there that said the 626 mani was an impossible fit...

i have 2k miles on the 626 mani to prove it....

chill...

learn how to take a ******* compliment
 
jeffmsp said:
i already know the rods will be the first to fail, its a question of whether or not it will hit a 12.x and dyno higher then MAM 267WHP stock block. lol
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Don't count on the rods failing first. My car was pulling like a freaking beast at 17PSI, with all my mods and the upgraded turbo. It killed a 309 ft-lbs clutch and would walk all over the road in three gears.
I do have the MPI and the J&S so I feel this helped keep me from breaking the engine. However, it did not stop me from breaking a ring in number 1.
So even with the elevated horse power if you avoid detonation you might not break the rods but rather break something else.
These FSDE can take a lot more power and make a lot more power than people think. Eventually it will fail but it might not be in a catastrophic fashion.
Discreet made some good power at 18PSI for over a year and broke a ring too.
Oh and before you can claim "fastest" stock block go back and look up Black Zoom Zoom he did some wild s*** on a stock block.
Now I am going forged and will add two more injectors.
Anyway good luck with you car. Mine made it 120,000 miles with 10-12PSI and up from 2000 miles on. (burnout)
 
Last edited:
So it sounds like you are letting the stock ECU run the stock injectors via MAF - then using MAP to tune the additional injectors.
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Exactly.

also, the fact that i get parts from a junk yard doesn't mean my car is worth less than anyones...
Click to expand...

i dont think that at all i thought you were bashing me for being creative when you do the same kinda thing.

learn how to take a ******* compliment
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guess i didnt get your internet sarcasm, thanks for the compliment

Don't count on the rods failing first. My car was pulling like a freaking beast at 17PSI, with all my mods and the upgraded turbo. It killed a 309 ft-lbs clutch and would walk all over the road in three gears.
I do have the MPI and the J&S so I feel this helped me from breaking the engine. However, it did not stop me from breaking a ring in number 1.
So even with the elevated horse power if you avoid detonation you might not break the rods but rather break something else.
These FSDE can take a lot more power and make a lot more power than people think. Eventually it will fail but it might not be in a catastrophic fashion.
Discreet made some good power at 18PSI for over a year and broke a ring too.
Oh and before you can claim "fastest" stock block go back and look up Black Zoom Zoom he did some wild s*** on a stock block.
Now I am going forged and will add two more injectors.
Anyway good luck with you car. Mine made it 120,000 miles with 10-12PSI and up from 2000 miles on.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you new setup is gonna be sweet. I made it to ~100,000KMs on the last motor beating on it, nice to see you got 120,000 MILES!

The J and S is the key to keeping these motors together I think. A few seconds of harsh detonation at high boost and you have got real problems. I monitor the stock knock sensor alot though if I had the cash the J and S would be the first thing I would buy.
 
Last edited:
my bad, i misunderstood. I thought the lines where for alky or meth direct injection. didn't realize fuel was being thrown into the mix too.

so could you describe what your using to control the addtional fuel system? an AFC? or is all this still classified till its finished? lol

btw props for crazy ingenuity.
 
Quote:
So it sounds like you are letting the stock ECU run the stock injectors via MAF - then using MAP to tune the additional injectors.
 
Water: meth is nice. I prototyped a kit on my car last summer for the proteges that I will be bringing to market shortly.
 
Well, I slacked on it for awhile (I've just been buried lately) but I'll go ahead and get things going on it.
 
Kool needs to apply his knowledge to 2.3L motors and make short blocks :P
 
Kooldino said:
Well, I slacked on it for awhile (I've just been buried lately) but I'll go ahead and get things going on it.
Click to expand...

I would be intrested in this ... make a thread please ...
 
this is some crazy s*** going on. go for ludacris speed! this is nuts and i love it, im following this daily. Good luck, i like the rig.
 
the fueling is controlled by a controller box. It can run on either a 2bar or 3bar map sensor, or can be used with the stock MAF 0-5V signal, however if
you max your maf it will not continue to add fuel which is why i got a map to run it seperately.

i will try to explain how it works, you can try to build one if you want or just buy one from someone who is experienced with making these things:

The unit will read the dial settings and calculate the slope of the progressive control. Map voltage is read and converted to a boost value
Pump duty cycle is calculated based on the dial settings and slope settings

When boost PSI reaches the START setting(say 9psi) the pump will come on with ~15% duty cycle
It will ramp up to 100% as boost approaches FULL setting.
The pump voltage percentage will increase with a 0.2 pound increase in boost. Therefore the voltage will step up 5 times over an increase of 1 PSI making a very linear response curve.
 
so basically if you are smart like me, you can buy kooldinos or anyone elses injection kit (they are the same thing everyone just rebadges the pump lol), spend $25 on fittings and lines, ~$100 on additional nozzles and solenoids and piece together a controller box. If you use brass fittings like i did you will need to clean out the system maybe once every few months. (takes 5-10 mins)
 
i was actually more curious about how you intend to get the extra fuel, ie your "addition injector setup" if we can call it that. assuming what you just explained was stricly for the meth injection.
 
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